Replace worn rear control arm bushings on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The Model S rear suspension uses a multi-link aluminum design; bushings are typically replaced as part of the control arm assembly rather than pressed individually due to the integrated aluminum construction.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing or complete control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S LR) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear control arm / bushing — verify by VIN at Tesla Parts
• Replacement control arm bolts (if specified as torque-to-yield by manufacturer) × 2 — OEM specification — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin (if ball joint nut is disturbed) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (Some 2021+ Plaid variants use a 16V Li-ion under the rear seat — verify your trim.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enter Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen to disable self-leveling before lifting.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated lift points using approved puck pads, and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove rear wheels and set aside (note Tesla aero/turbine wheel orientation for reinstallation).

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and photograph rear suspension geometry
   Before disturbing anything, photograph the rear suspension from multiple angles. Note the orientation of the control arm, eccentric alignment cams (if present), and any factory paint marks across fasteners. These reference marks help return alignment close to factory spec until a professional alignment is performed.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle
   Place a jack with a rubber pad under the rear knuckle/upright to support it once the control arm is disconnected. This prevents the knuckle from hanging on the half-shaft, CV joint, or brake hose. Do NOT let the assembly hang unsupported.
   ⚠Allowing the knuckle to drop can damage the rear half-shaft inner tripod joint and stretch the parking brake cable and ABS/wear sensor wiring.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link blocks access to the control arm bushing bolts, remove the lower sway bar link nut. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect ball joint or outboard pivot (if required by arm design)
   Depending on which rear control arm is being serviced (toe link, camber link, trailing arm, or lower lateral), the outboard end may attach via a ball joint or a through-bolt. If a ball joint nut is present, remove the cotter pin, then loosen and remove the nut. Separate the taper using a manufacturer-specified ball joint separator — do NOT use a pickle fork on aluminum knuckles, as it will damage the boot and aluminum surface.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — never strike directly. Use a separator tool only.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Mark eccentric alignment cams
   If the inboard control arm bolt uses an eccentric cam washer for alignment adjustment, paint-mark its position relative to the subframe BEFORE loosening. This preserves rough alignment for the drive to the alignment shop.
6. 6

   Remove inboard control arm bolt
   Support the control arm with a jack. Loosen and remove the inboard control arm bolt that passes through the bushing into the subframe. The bolt may be long — ensure clearance behind the subframe before fully withdrawing it. Inspect the bolt for damage; replace if it shows any deformation, galling, or corrosion.
7. 7

   Remove the control arm
   With both ends free, lower the control arm from the vehicle. Inspect the bushing for cracking, separation of the rubber from the inner/outer sleeve, oil weeping (on hydro-bushings), or excessive play. Inspect the mounting points on the subframe and knuckle for elongation or damage.
   ℹ️Many Tesla rear control arms are sold as a complete assembly because the bushings are bonded into aluminum arms and pressing without proper fixtures can deform the arm. Verify your replacement strategy before pressing.
8. 8

   Replace bushing or install new control arm
   If replacing the bushing only: use a hydraulic press with the manufacturer-specified bushing tool set to remove the old bushing and install the new one to the correct depth and clock orientation. If installing a complete control arm assembly (recommended for most DIYers): transfer no components — install as supplied.
   ⚠Pressing bushings into aluminum arms without correct support fixtures can crack or distort the arm. When in doubt, replace the complete arm.
9. 9

   Reinstall control arm — snug only
   Position the new arm/bushing into the subframe and knuckle. Install the inboard bolt and outboard fastener (ball joint nut or through-bolt) finger-tight, then snug — but do NOT final-torque yet. Final torque on the bushing bolt must occur with suspension loaded at ride height.
10. 10

    Torque outboard fastener
    If a ball joint was disconnected, torque the ball joint nut to specification and install a NEW cotter pin (never reuse). If the outboard end uses a through-bolt, snug only and torque under load with the inboard bolt in step 13.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect sway bar link
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, holding the internal shaft with an Allen key, and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the wheel, hand-thread lug nuts, and lower the vehicle so full curb weight rests on the suspension. The car must be at normal ride height for the next step.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final-torque control arm bolt(s) at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels (use drive-on ramps or roll the car off stands onto level ground), final-torque the inboard control arm bolt — and any outboard through-bolt — to specification. Torquing under suspension load sets the bushing's neutral position; torquing in the air will preload the bushing and cause premature failure.
    ⚠️Skipping the load-torque step will destroy the new bushing within months. This is the most commonly missed step on Tesla rear suspension work.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final lug nut torque
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Tesla wheels use conical seat lug nuts — ensure they are seated cleanly with no debris on the mating surface.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all removed fasteners are reinstalled and final-torqued.
2. Reinstall any underbody aero panels removed for access — Tesla underbody panels are critical for HV pack thermal management and aerodynamic range.
3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
4. Close frunk and verify it latches fully.
5. If air suspension equipped: exit Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen; allow the system to self-level.

Verification

• Take the vehicle for a low-speed test drive in a safe area. Listen for clunks, squeaks, or knocking from the rear suspension over bumps.
• Recheck all torque values after the test drive once components have settled.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment within 50 miles — any rear control arm service affects rear toe and camber on the Model S multi-link rear.
• Inspect the new bushing area after 100–500 miles for any signs of movement, cracking, or missed torque.
• Note: this job is not on a Tesla scheduled-maintenance interval, but it is a good time to also inspect the opposite-side rear bushing, the air strut (if equipped) for leaks, and rear brake pad thickness — Model S regenerative braking masks rear pad wear, so visual inspection is the only reliable check.

More procedures for this vehicle