Replacement of accessible low-voltage coolant lines on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. This procedure covers non-HV coolant plumbing only — any work on the battery thermal loop, octovalve, superbottle, or heat pump requires Tesla Toolbox and HV training and is out of scope.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Replacement coolant line(s) — manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S LR AWD × 1 — Tesla OEM coolant line — match by VIN, do not substitute generic hose
• Coolant line O-rings / quick-connect seals (where applicable) × 1 — OEM seal kit matching the line being replaced
• Spring/worm hose clamps (replace if disturbed) × 2 — OEM-spec clamp matching original

Fluids

• Tesla-spec coolant (Pentosin G13 / G-48 equivalent — Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant) — 10 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk under the nose cowl panel (verify your VIN — some 2021+ Plaid units use a 16V Li-ion under the rear seat).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Confirm by VIN and visual inspection that the coolant line(s) being replaced are NOT part of the HV battery thermal loop, octovalve assembly, superbottle, or heat pump refrigerant/coolant interface. If they are, abort — this requires Tesla Toolbox.
7. Allow vehicle to cool for a minimum of 2 hours after last drive cycle.
8. Raise the vehicle on a lift or jack stands using Tesla-approved jack pad locations only. The aluminum sill will deform under improper jacking.
9. Position a coolant catch pan beneath the work area. Have at least 3 gallons of catch capacity ready.
10. Stage the new line, replacement clamps/seals, and fresh Tesla-spec coolant before opening the system.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove access panels and underbody covers
   Remove the relevant frunk liner, aero shield, or underbody panel needed to access the coolant line being replaced. Use a plastic trim tool to release push pins; remove cover screws with a torque-controlled driver. Keep fasteners organized — Model S uses several different lengths.
   Torque spec

   Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Identify the target coolant line and verify circuit
   Trace the line end-to-end. Confirm both endpoints connect to low-voltage components (radiator, expansion bottle outlet to non-HV branches, PTC/aux pump on the cabin loop, etc.) and NOT to the battery pack inlets/outlets, drive unit jackets, octovalve ports, or heat pump. If either endpoint terminates at an HV-adjacent component, stop and refer the job out.
   ⚠️If the line connects to the HV thermal loop, do not proceed. Tesla Toolbox is required to safely service that circuit.
3. 3

   Drain coolant from the affected circuit
   Position the catch pan. Open the lowest accessible drain or loosen the lower clamp on the target line to gravity-drain the section being serviced. Capture all fluid — Tesla coolant is regulated waste in most jurisdictions. Do not drain into the HV pack loop drain.
   ⚠Coolant is slippery and a slip hazard on shop floors. Contain spills immediately.
4. 4

   Disconnect coolant line endpoints
   Release spring or worm hose clamps using clamp pliers. For quick-connect fittings, depress the locking tab squarely and pull straight off — do not pry sideways, as the plastic collars crack. Cap or plug both open ports immediately to prevent debris entry.
   ⚠Quick-connect fittings on Tesla coolant lines are single-use sealing in many cases — replace O-rings whenever disturbed.
   Torque spec

   Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)

   Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Release line retainers and brackets
   Free the line from its routing clips and any intermediate support brackets. Remove bracket bolts only as needed. Note original routing (photograph it) — the line must not contact HV cabling, sharp aluminum edges, or moving suspension components on reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the old coolant line
   Withdraw the line carefully along its original path. Inspect the removed line for the cause of failure (chafe, swelling, fitting damage). Inspect mating ports for residue, scoring, or O-ring fragments and clean with a lint-free cloth.
7. 7

   Install the new coolant line
   Lubricate new O-rings with fresh coolant only (no petroleum grease — it degrades EPDM seals). Route the new line exactly along the original path, seating it into all retainer clips. Seat quick-connect fittings until you hear/feel a positive click and verify with a gentle pull-back.
   ⚠Confirm the line maintains clearance from any orange HV cabling, exhaust-of-heat-pump surfaces, and suspension travel arcs.
   Torque spec

   Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reinstall brackets, clamps, and sensor connections
   Torque any bracket bolts, mounting bolts, and sensor bolts (if a temperature sensor was disturbed) to spec. Install fresh hose clamps where required. Reconnect any low-voltage sensor connectors with an audible click.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)

   Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)

   Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Refill and vacuum-bleed the coolant circuit
   Using a vacuum fill tool (Airlift or equivalent), pull the affected circuit down to approximately -25 inHg, hold for 5 minutes to verify no vacuum loss (leak check), then draw in fresh Tesla-spec coolant until the system is full. Vacuum filling is required — gravity filling will airlock the loop.
   ⚠Use only Tesla-specified coolant (Pentosin G13 / G-48 equivalent). Do NOT substitute green, orange, or universal coolant.
10. 10

    Top off expansion reservoir and inspect for leaks
    Top off the reservoir to the correct cold-fill mark. Reconnect the 12V battery. Power up the vehicle (do not drive yet) and let the low-voltage coolant pump(s) cycle. Inspect every disturbed fitting for seepage with a flashlight and clean rag.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall underbody aero panel and any frunk liner removed for access; torque cover screws to spec.
2. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery, negative terminal last.
3. Verify all push pins and trim clips are fully seated — loose aero panels cause range loss and wind noise on Model S.
4. Lower the vehicle off the lift/stands.

Verification

• With the vehicle awake but not driving, confirm no fluid weeping at any disturbed fitting after 10 minutes of pump cycling.
• On the touchscreen, check for any thermal-system or coolant-level alerts. The 2024 Model S will display warnings if the affected loop is under- or over-pressurized.
• Take a short test drive (10–15 minutes) to bring the system to operating temperature, then re-inspect all fittings cold the next morning for slow leaks.
• Recheck reservoir level after the first heat cycle — vacuum-filled systems often need a small top-off after the first thermal expansion.
• Document the service. Per Tesla's current guidance, battery/motor coolant should be inspected at 4 years / 50,000 mi — log this service date for the next interval.
• If you disturbed any sensor or saw any thermal warning during the test drive, the affected circuit may share a controller with the HV thermal loop — STOP driving and have a Tesla-certified technician scan with Toolbox before further use.

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