Replacement of a front headlight assembly on a 2024 Model S Long Range. The assembly is accessed after removing the front fascia/bumper cover, which is required to reach the outboard mounting bolts on Model S.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front headlight assembly (LH or RH, matrix LED — verify by VIN) × 1 — Tesla Model S Refresh 2021+ headlight assembly — order by VIN
• Replacement fascia/bumper push-pin clips (often break on removal) × 1 — Generic fastener kit for Tesla front fascia

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk under the nose cowl panel (verify whether this VIN uses 12V AGM or 16V Li-ion before disconnecting).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Service Mode via the touchscreen prior to 12V disconnect (if available) to avoid sleep/wake faults during the procedure.
7. Open the frunk and remove the frunk liner / nose cowl panel to access fascia top fasteners.
8. Tape off fender-to-fascia and fender-to-headlight edges with low-tack painter's tape to protect aluminum paint.
9. Have a clean, padded surface ready to set the removed headlight assembly lens-up.

Procedure

1. 1

   Raise the front of the vehicle (optional but recommended)
   Using the manufacturer-specified jack pads, raise the front of the Model S and support on stands rated for EV curb weight. This provides access to the lower fascia fasteners and wheel-arch liner clips.
   ⚠Use only Tesla-approved lift points. Lifting on the battery pack rails or pinch welds can damage the HV pack or aluminum structure.
2. 2

   Remove front wheel-arch liner fasteners (affected side)
   Turn the steering to expose the inner wheel arch on the side being serviced. Remove the push-pin clips and Torx screws securing the front portion of the wheel-arch liner to the fascia. Pull the liner back enough to access the side fascia-to-fender bolt.
3. 3

   Remove fascia top and lower fasteners
   From inside the frunk well, remove the fasteners along the top edge of the front fascia. From underneath, remove the lower fascia retainers along the front splash shield. Then remove the side fasteners exposed in step 2. Quantity and head type vary — most are Torx or 10mm hex.
   ⚠Do not pry against painted aluminum surfaces. Release fascia clips by hand or with plastic tools only.
4. 4

   Disengage and support the front fascia
   With a helper, gently release the fascia from the fender clips by pulling outward at the wheel-arch corners, then forward. Support the fascia — do not let it hang. Disconnect any electrical connectors (parking sensors, ambient temp sensor, fog lamps if equipped, fascia-mounted camera harness). Set the fascia on a padded surface or hang from soft straps.
   ⚠The fascia carries Autopilot ultrasonic/parking sensors and possibly a forward radar/camera harness — disconnect carefully and do not pull by the wires.
5. 5

   Disconnect headlight electrical connector
   Locate the main headlight harness connector at the rear of the assembly. Release the connector lock tab and disconnect. Inspect the connector and pins for corrosion or heat damage before installing the new unit.
6. 6

   Remove headlight ground bolt (if equipped)
   If the assembly has a dedicated chassis ground stud near the headlight bracket, remove the ground bolt and set aside. The ring terminal must be transferred to the new unit if the new headlight does not include a pigtail.
   ⚠Ground bolt is critical — a poor ground will cause flicker, matrix LED faults, and DRL errors.
   Torque spec

   Ground Bolt14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove headlight assembly mounting bolts
   Remove the headlight assembly mounting bolts securing the unit to the front structural support. There are typically three to four bolts (top, inboard, outboard). Support the assembly with one hand as the last bolt is removed.
   Torque spec

   Headlight Assembly Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove the headlight assembly
   Pull the headlight straight forward out of its locating pins. Do not twist or pry against the fender — the alignment tabs are plastic and brittle. Place the removed unit lens-up on a padded surface.
   ⚠Aluminum fender edges can be scratched by the headlight housing — keep painter's tape in place during removal.
9. 9

   Compare and prepare the new headlight
   Compare the new assembly to the old one — verify connector type, mounting tabs, and matrix LED part variant match. Transfer any service items (ground ring terminal, foam seals) per the manufacturer-specified procedure.
   ℹ️Model S headlights are coded by VIN/feature set. Installing a non-matching variant can cause matrix LED or country-spec faults.
10. 10

    Install the new headlight assembly
    Seat the new headlight onto its locating pins, ensuring tabs engage fully and the gap to the hood/fender is even. Hand-start all mounting bolts before final tightening. Torque the headlight assembly bolts to spec, then install and torque the ground bolt to spec.
    Torque spec

    Headlight Assembly Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

    Ground Bolt14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect headlight harness
    Reconnect the main headlight harness connector and confirm the lock tab is fully seated. Route the harness clear of any moving or hot components.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front fascia: align fender clips first, then press in until clips fully seat. Reconnect all fascia harness connectors (parking sensors, ambient temp sensor, fog lamps if equipped) before final fastener install.
2. Reinstall fascia top, side, and lower fasteners. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
3. Reinstall the wheel-arch liner clips and screws. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Reinstall frunk liner / nose cowl panel.
5. If headlight aim adjuster screws were touched, set initial aim and torque adjuster screws.
6. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery. Torque the terminal bolts to spec.
7. Lower the vehicle if it was raised.
8. Remove painter's tape from fender and fascia edges.

Verification

• Wake the vehicle and check the touchscreen for any new alerts related to lighting, Autopilot sensors, or parking sensors.
• Cycle through low beam, high beam, DRL, turn signal, and (if equipped) cornering/matrix LED functions on both sides — confirm matched output.
• Park 25 feet from a flat wall and verify headlight aim cutoff is even side-to-side and at correct height; adjust via the manufacturer-specified adjuster screws if needed.
• Verify the front fascia gap to the hood, headlight, and fender is even on both sides — uneven gaps indicate fascia clips not fully seated.
• Test parking sensors and Autopilot front camera function (if a calibration drive is required, the touchscreen will prompt for it).
• Note: A Tesla-certified scan tool may be required to clear any stored lighting DTCs and to perform matrix LED calibration. If alerts persist, consult a Tesla-certified technician.
• While the front end is apart, this is also a good opportunity to inspect the cabin air filter (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years, or every 3 years for HEPA-equipped Model S) and confirm 12V battery health (3–5 year typical service life).

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