Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. This is a chassis-only job with no HV exposure, but final torque must be set with the suspension loaded to preserve bushing life.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (left or right as required) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front LCA for 2024 Model S LR AWD — verify by VIN
• Ball joint castle nut / retaining nut (if single-use) × 1 — OEM ball joint nut — replace if specified as single-use
• Control arm pivot bolts (if specified as single-use TTY) × 2 — OEM control arm fasteners — verify reuse policy in Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on applicable Plaid units) low-voltage battery. On Model S, the 12V is located in the frunk under the nose cowl panel; the 16V Li-ion (if equipped) is under the rear seat.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enter Jack Mode on the touchscreen before lifting (Service > Jack Mode).
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using rubber pucks, and support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Visually verify no orange HV cable, coolant line, or wiring harness is routed across your work area before applying force to any component.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and photograph
   Photograph the suspension corner before disassembly. Note the orientation of the ball joint pinch bolt, the routing of any ABS / wheel speed sensor wiring, and the position of brake hose clips. This Tesla uses tight clearances around the steering knuckle — reassembly errors can chafe the wheel speed sensor harness.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm (if attached there)
   Hold the end link stud with an Allen key on the internal hex and remove the nut with a wrench. Swing the end link out of the way. If the link is seized, do not heat it — replace the link rather than risk damaging adjacent aluminum structure.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the steering knuckle
   Place a jack under the steering knuckle / hub assembly to support its weight before separating the ball joint. This prevents the knuckle from hanging on the CV axle, ABS sensor harness, or brake hose.
   ⚠Allowing the knuckle to drop will overextend the outer CV joint and may damage the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring.
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove the ball joint retaining nut. Using a manufacturer-specified ball joint separator, press the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a hammer — use a press-style separator. If the nut is identified as single-use, discard and replace.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — no hammer blows. Use a screw-type separator only.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Mark and remove inboard pivot bolts
   Mark the position of any eccentric / cam alignment bolts before loosening so the alignment can be returned close to spec for the drive to the alignment rack. Support the control arm and remove the inboard pivot fasteners attaching the arm to the front subframe.
   ℹ️Even with marks, a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.
6. 6

   Remove the control arm
   Lower the arm out of the subframe and clear of the knuckle. Inspect the subframe mounting points for corrosion, elongation, or damage. Inspect the bushing pockets — if the subframe shows damage, stop and consult the Tesla Service Manual before proceeding.
7. 7

   Compare old and new arms
   Lay the new control arm next to the old one. Verify ball joint orientation, bushing eye spacing, and any integrated brake hose / sensor brackets match. Tesla has revised front suspension geometry across model years — installing an incorrect arm will cause uncorrectable alignment.
8. 8

   Install new control arm — finger-tight only
   Position the new arm in the subframe and install the inboard pivot bolts hand-tight only. Reconnect the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle and install the retaining nut. Final torque on the pivot bolts will be done later with the vehicle loaded.
   ⚠Do NOT torque the inboard pivot bolts at this stage. Bushings must be clamped at ride-height position.
9. 9

   Torque the ball joint nut
   Torque the ball joint retaining nut to specification. If the nut is a castellated style requiring a cotter pin, only tighten further (never back off) to align the slot.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar end link to the control arm. Hold the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the full suspension is loaded onto the wheels (use drive-on ramps or wheel cribs to maintain access to the inboard pivot bolts while loaded). Torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final torque inboard pivot bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle weight on the wheels and suspension at static ride height, final-torque the control arm inboard pivot bolts to specification. This step is critical — torquing unloaded will twist the bushing in service and cause premature failure.
    ⚠Critical torque sequence — vehicle MUST be loaded on its wheels at ride height before final torque.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all fasteners are torqued and no tools or rags are in the wheel well.
2. Reconfirm ABS/wheel speed sensor harness is clipped into its original retainers and not chafing.
3. If air suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery and close the frunk / rear seat.
5. Power on the vehicle and allow systems to fully boot. Clear any chassis fault messages on the touchscreen.
6. Drive the vehicle slowly to a four-wheel alignment rack — do not drive at highway speed before alignment is corrected.

Verification

• Confirm no chassis, ABS, or stability control warnings appear on the touchscreen after a key cycle and short low-speed drive.
• Perform a four-wheel alignment to Tesla specification — required after any control arm replacement.
• Test drive on a smooth road and verify no clunks over bumps, no pull, and centered steering wheel.
• After 100–200 miles, recheck the ball joint nut and inboard pivot bolt torques to confirm they have not relaxed.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, this is also a good time to verify Tesla's recommended service intervals are current: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years (3 years for HEPA), and tire rotation every 6,250 miles.

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