Replace a rear lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. This is a chassis-only job with no HV system involvement, but final torque must be set with the vehicle at ride height to preload the bushing correctly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear lower control arm assembly (left or right as applicable) × 1 — Tesla Model S 2024 rear LCA — verify by VIN through parts catalog
• Control arm-to-subframe bolt (single-use if specified by manufacturer) × 1 — Tesla OEM — replace if the service manual lists it as torque-to-yield/single-use
• Ball joint nut (single-use prevailing-torque nut) × 1 — Tesla OEM nut matching ball joint stud

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative first) under the nose cowl panel. If this vehicle is equipped with a 16V Li-ion battery, follow the appropriate disconnect procedure for that unit.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V (air-suspension Performance/Plaid trims) to prevent the system from trying to self-level during the lift. On coil-spring trims this step is not required.
7. Chock the front wheels.
8. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the wheel is still on the ground.
9. Raise the vehicle on a hoist using Tesla-specified lift points and pucks, or support on rated jack stands at the manufacturer-specified rear lift points.
10. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
11. Inspect the area for orange HV cabling, harnesses, or coolant lines routed near the subframe before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document and photograph existing hardware
   Photograph the control arm, eccentric/cam bolts (if present), and any alignment marks before disassembly. Mark the position of any cam washers with a paint pen so the alignment is approximately preserved on reassembly.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/hub assembly
   Place a transmission jack or stand under the rear knuckle to prevent it from dropping when the control arm is released. The half-shaft, brake line, and parking brake harness must not bear the weight of the assembly.
   ⚠Letting the knuckle hang will overextend the CV joint boot and can damage the wheel speed/EPB harness.
3. 3

   Disconnect the sway bar end link from the control arm (if attached at LCA)
   Hold the end-link stud with an Allen key and remove the nut with a wrench. Swing the link clear of the control arm.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Release any harness clips or brake-line brackets attached to the control arm
   The wheel speed sensor harness, EPB cable, and sometimes a brake hose bracket may clip to the control arm. Free these without stretching the harness. Do not cut zip ties retaining HV-adjacent harnesses.
   ⚠Do not pry harnesses off with metal tools — use a plastic trim tool to release clips.
5. 5

   Separate the outer ball joint / knuckle attachment
   Remove the ball joint nut at the knuckle end of the control arm. Use a proper ball joint separator to break the taper. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Discard the ball joint nut if it is a prevailing-torque/locking design — replace with new.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the inboard control arm-to-subframe bolt
   Support the arm, then remove the inboard pivot bolt. Note orientation of any cam/eccentric washers and reinstall the new arm in the same orientation. Withdraw the control arm from the vehicle.
   ℹ️If the bolt is specified single-use by the Tesla Service Manual for this VIN, replace it.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Compare old vs new control arm
   Lay the old and new arms side by side. Verify length, bushing orientation, ball joint stud taper, and any integrated brackets match before installing. Aftermarket arms occasionally differ subtly between MY revisions.
8. 8

   Install the new control arm — inboard side first, hand-tight
   Install the inboard pivot bolt with cam washers (if equipped) in the marked position. Start the bolt by hand. DO NOT final-torque yet — the bushing must be torqued at ride height.
9. 9

   Connect the outboard ball joint to the knuckle
   Seat the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install a NEW ball joint nut and torque to specification. If the stud spins, apply downward pressure on the joint to seat the taper.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach sway bar end link
    Reinstall the end link nut while holding the stud with an Allen key. Torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reattach harness clips and any brake-line brackets
    Reseat all wheel speed sensor and EPB harness clips. Verify nothing is stretched, kinked, or contacting suspension travel paths.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ride height
    Mount the wheel and snug the lugs. Lower the vehicle so the full curb weight is on the wheels (use drive-on ramps or scale pads to keep suspension at ride height while still allowing wrench access).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final-torque the control arm pivot bolt at ride height
    With the vehicle's weight on the wheels and suspension at normal ride height, torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt to specification. This sets the bushing's neutral position.
    ⚠Skipping ride-height torquing will cause the bushing to fail in under 20,000 miles.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final-torque wheel lug nuts in star pattern
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque each lug nut to specification in a crossing pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery, positive first, then negative.
2. Close the frunk and allow the vehicle to wake. Confirm no suspension, ABS, EPB, or stability-control faults are displayed on the touchscreen.
3. On air-suspension trims, exit Jack Mode and allow the system to self-level. Verify ride height settles correctly front and rear.
4. Perform a four-wheel alignment — required after any rear control arm replacement on this platform.

Verification

• Confirm no ABS, traction-control, EPB, or chassis warning indicators on the touchscreen after a short test drive.
• Test drive at low speed in a parking lot, then at 30–50 mph: listen for clunks over bumps and verify the vehicle tracks straight with hands lightly on the wheel.
• Recheck the inboard pivot bolt torque after the alignment is complete to confirm it did not loosen during alignment adjustment.
• Verify Autopilot/Autosteer behavior on a known straight road — pulling or off-center steering after rear suspension work usually indicates rear toe is out of spec.
• Inspect tire wear at the next rotation interval (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi). Inner-edge wear on the affected rear tire indicates rear toe drift and the alignment should be rechecked.

More procedures for this vehicle