Replace the front strut upper bearing (strut mount bearing) on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. This requires removing the front strut assembly and disassembling it under spring compression — the upper bearing sits between the strut mount and the upper spring seat.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front strut upper bearing (strut mount bearing) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S 2021+ refresh front strut bearing — verify by VIN
• Strut tower nuts (replace if single-use stretch type) × 3 — OEM-specified — verify in Tesla Service Manual
• Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts (replace if single-use) × 2 — OEM-specified — verify in Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (2024 Model S typically uses a 16V Li-ion unit — verify and follow the disconnect sequence in the owner documentation.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enable Jack Mode via Controls > Service before lifting.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle ONLY at the manufacturer-specified jack points using approved puck adapters — never under battery pack, control arms, or sheet aluminum.
9. Support the vehicle on rated jack stands and remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Lock the steering wheel/secure it with a seatbelt strap to prevent the clockspring from over-rotating once the knuckle is free.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the strut, brake line routing, ABS/wheel speed sensor harness, and any sway bar link orientation before disassembly. Note the alignment marks on the strut-to-knuckle bolts if present.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link
   Remove the sway bar end link from the strut bracket. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent spinning. Swing the link clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Free brake hose and wheel speed sensor harness
   Unclip the brake hose bracket and ABS harness retainers from the strut body. Do not stretch or kink the lines. Do not disconnect the hydraulic line — there is no need to open the brake system for this job.
   ⚠Avoid letting the caliper hang by the brake hose. Support it with a bungee or strap if the knuckle must be moved significantly.
4. 4

   Separate strut from steering knuckle
   Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts. These are typically heavy clamp bolts; mark orientation if any camber adjustment is present. Carefully spread the knuckle pinch (do not over-spread aluminum) and slide the knuckle off the strut base. Support the knuckle with a stand or bungee — do not let it pull on the half-shaft or tie rod.
   ⚠Do not pry against aluminum suspension components with steel tools — galling and stress cracks can result.
   Torque spec

   Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Support strut and remove upper tower nuts
   From the engine bay / frunk area, locate the three upper strut tower nuts (access may require partial removal of the frunk liner or cowl trim — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the exact panel sequence). Support the strut from below, then remove the upper nuts. Lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
   ⚠The strut assembly is heavy — support it before removing the final upper nut to prevent it from dropping onto the brake rotor or CV joint.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Mount strut and compress spring
   Secure the strut in a vise by its lower bracket (never the strut tube itself). Install a properly rated coil spring compressor with claws engaging at least 4-5 coils symmetrically. Compress the spring evenly until the upper spring seat is loose and free of preload.
   ⚠️Verify both compressor claws are fully seated before applying load. Asymmetric loading can launch the spring.
7. 7

   Remove upper strut nut
   Hold the strut shaft with an Allen key (or shaft-holding tool) and remove the center nut at the top of the strut shaft. Lift off the upper mount, the failed bearing, the upper spring isolator, and (if loose) the bump stop and dust boot. Note stack-up order.
8. 8

   Inspect related components
   Inspect the upper mount rubber, bump stop, dust boot, and lower spring isolator. If any are torn, collapsed, or contaminated with oil (indicating strut leakage), replace them now. Inspect the strut body for oil seepage — a leaking strut should be replaced as a pair (left + right).
9. 9

   Install new strut bearing
   Install the new strut upper bearing in the same orientation as the original (note any directional arrows or stepped face). Reassemble the upper isolator, dust boot, bump stop, and upper mount in original stack-up order.
10. 10

    Torque strut shaft nut and decompress
    Hold the shaft with the Allen key and torque the upper strut shaft nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual (this value is not in the verified torque list). Once torqued, slowly and evenly release the spring compressor. Verify the spring ends seat correctly into the upper and lower isolator pockets.
    ⚠️Decompress slowly and evenly. Stop and re-seat the spring if it shifts or rotates out of its locating step.
11. 11

    Reinstall strut into vehicle
    Lift the strut assembly into the tower, align the upper studs, and start the upper nuts by hand. Engage the strut base into the steering knuckle and install the strut-to-knuckle bolts hand-tight. Torque the upper strut tower nuts.
    Torque spec

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts
    Torque the strut-to-knuckle clamp bolts to spec.
    Torque spec

    Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reattach sway bar link and harnesses
    Reinstall the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut. Re-clip the brake hose bracket and ABS sensor harness into their retainers. Verify the brake hose has no twist and full suspension travel clearance.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground so full weight is on the suspension.
3. With the vehicle at ride height, final-torque any control arm pivot bolts that were loosened (not required for a strut-bearing-only job, but verify none were disturbed).
4. Reinstall any frunk liner / cowl panels removed for upper nut access.
5. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery.
6. If the vehicle has air suspension, exit Jack Mode and allow the system to self-level.
7. Re-torque wheel lug nuts to final spec on the ground.

Verification

• With wheels on the ground, turn the steering lock-to-lock — there should be NO clunking, popping, or grinding from the strut tower. A bad bearing typically announces itself when turning at low speed.
• Bounce-test the front of the vehicle and listen for any creak or knock from the upper mount area.
• Test drive at low speed over a parking lot bump while turning — confirm the original symptom (creak/groan on turn) is resolved.
• Check for any new error messages on the touchscreen (suspension, ABS, or steering faults).
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed. Any time the strut-to-knuckle bolts are loosened on a Model S, camber and toe must be re-verified.
• Recheck the strut tower nuts and strut-to-knuckle bolts after the first 100 miles.
• While the vehicle is up, this is a good time to verify Tesla's other interval items: brake fluid (2-year interval), cabin air filter (2 years, or 3 years if HEPA-equipped), and tire rotation (every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle