Sway Bar Bushing - Front

Replace the front sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The bushings are retained by two brackets that clamp the sway bar to the front subframe; this is a straightforward suspension job with no HV exposure.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar bushing (manufacturer-specified, sized to OEM bar diameter) × 2 — OEM Tesla front sway bar bushing for 2024 Model S — verify by VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (If this vehicle is equipped with a 16V Li-ion unit, follow the appropriate disconnect procedure for that battery.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen before lifting.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using OEM-spec rubber pucks, and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
9. Remove both front wheels to gain access to the sway bar and brackets.
10. Remove the front aero/belly pan fasteners and lower the pan to expose the sway bar bushing brackets on the subframe.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document layout
   With the belly pan removed, locate the front sway bar where it crosses the subframe. Identify the two bushing brackets (one per side) that clamp the bar to the subframe, and note bracket orientation, bushing split-line position, and any alignment marks before disassembly.
2. 2

   Support the sway bar
   Place a jack or stand loosely under the center of the sway bar so it does not drop once the brackets are loose. The bar is not heavy, but unsupported rotation can stress the end links.
3. 3

   (Optional) Disconnect sway bar end links
   If clearance is tight to slide the bushings off, disconnect the lower sway bar link nut at the sway bar end. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent it from spinning. This is often not required if the bar can be rotated/lowered enough to free the bushings.
   ⚠Inspect end-link ball studs for torn boots while disconnected; replace links if boots are split.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove sway bar bracket bolts
   Remove the bolts securing each sway bar bushing bracket to the subframe. Retain the brackets — only the rubber bushings are being replaced. Inspect brackets for corrosion or distortion; replace if damaged.
5. 5

   Remove old bushings
   Lower the sway bar slightly and slide the old bushings off the bar, or open them at their split line. Clean the sway bar surface where the bushings ride — remove old rubber residue, dirt, and any corrosion. Do not use abrasive tools that will gouge the bar.
6. 6

   Install new bushings
   Apply a thin film of silicone-based rubber lubricant to the inner bore of the new bushings. Open each new bushing at its split line and install it on the sway bar in the original position and orientation (split line typically faces forward or as marked). Verify the bushing is fully seated and not twisted.
   ⚠Do not use petroleum-based grease, brake fluid, or silicone spray containing solvents — these degrade rubber.
7. 7

   Reinstall bushing brackets
   Position the brackets over the new bushings and start both bracket bolts by hand on each side to avoid cross-threading the aluminum subframe. Once both bolts on a bracket are started, snug them evenly, then torque to specification.
   ⚠The subframe threads are aluminum — never run bolts in with an impact and never exceed the specified torque.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect sway bar end links (if disconnected)
   If the end links were disconnected, reconnect them now. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front aero/belly pan, ensuring all clips and fasteners are seated — a loose pan will flap at highway speed and reduce range.
2. Remount both front wheels and snug lug nuts in a star pattern by hand.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the lug nuts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk.
6. If air suspension is equipped, exit Jack Mode; the system will self-level on first drive.

Verification

• Visually confirm both bushings are seated squarely in their brackets with no pinched rubber and no gap between bracket and subframe.
• Verify both bracket bolts on each side are torqued to spec and end links (if disturbed) are torqued with shafts held.
• Test drive on a smooth road, then over expansion joints and a low-speed turn — listen for clunks or squeaks from the front suspension. New bushings should be silent.
• After 100–200 miles, re-check bracket bolt torque, as new rubber can take an initial set.
• While under the vehicle, this is a good moment to note unrelated Tesla service intervals due soon: brake fluid (2-year interval), cabin air filter (2 yr / 3 yr if HEPA), and front drive unit gear oil (Tesla now recommends periodic service rather than 'lifetime').

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