Replace the rear sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. The bushings are held by two brackets clamping the bar to the rear subframe; this is a low-voltage chassis job but still requires standard Tesla LV safety steps.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar bushings (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S rear) × 2 — OEM Tesla rear stabilizer bar bushing — match sway bar diameter
• Underbody/aero panel fasteners (replace any damaged push-pins) × 1 — Generic Tesla underbody clip kit

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel on this 2024 Model S. (If this vehicle has the 16V Li-ion unit, follow the applicable disconnect procedure.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if equipped with air suspension, so the air system does not fight the lift. (Standard coil-spring trims can skip this.)
7. Loosen rear lug nuts slightly while wheels are on the ground if wheel removal is planned for access.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-designated jack points with proper puck adapters and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the rear underbody aero panel(s) as required to expose the rear sway bar and bushing brackets.

Procedure

1. 1

   Locate and inspect the rear sway bar bushings
   With the vehicle safely supported and underbody panel(s) removed, locate the rear sway (stabilizer) bar running laterally across the rear subframe. Identify the two bushing brackets (one per side) that clamp the bar to the subframe. Inspect the bar, bushings, end links, and surrounding components for damage, corrosion, or fluid contamination. Note bushing orientation (split line position) before removal.
   ⚠Verify there is no orange HV cabling or HV connector routed along the bracket bolts before applying tools. If present, STOP.
2. 2

   Support the sway bar
   Place a transmission jack or sturdy support under the center of the sway bar to prevent it from dropping when both brackets are released. The bar is heavy and can swing.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end links (if required for clearance)
   If access requires it, disconnect the sway bar end link nuts at the sway bar. Hold the link shaft with the appropriate hex/Allen drive while loosening the nut to prevent shaft rotation. Set links aside.
4. 4

   Remove sway bar bracket bolts
   Unbolt both rear sway bar bracket bolts from the subframe. Keep hardware organized by side. Lower the sway bar just enough to slide the old bushings off the bar — full removal of the bar is typically not required.
5. 5

   Remove old bushings
   Open the split in each bushing and slide it off the sway bar. Clean the bar contact surface with a lint-free cloth — remove any old rubber residue, grit, or corrosion. Do not use solvents that attack rubber on the new bushings.
6. 6

   Install new bushings
   Apply a thin film of silicone-safe rubber-friendly lubricant ONLY to the inner bore of the new bushings if specified by the bushing manufacturer (do not use petroleum grease — it will degrade rubber). Install the new bushings onto the sway bar with the split oriented per the original (typically forward or downward, matching the OEM bushing). Slide each bushing into its designated location on the bar.
7. 7

   Reinstall sway bar brackets
   Position each bracket over its bushing and start both bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading into the aluminum subframe. Once both bolts are started on each bracket, snug them evenly, then torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect sway bar end links
   If end links were disconnected, reattach them to the sway bar. Hold the end link shaft with a hex/Allen key while torquing the nut to specification to prevent shaft spin and stud damage.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear underbody aero panel(s), replacing any broken push-pin fasteners.
2. Reinstall rear wheels if removed; snug lug nuts in a star pattern, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual — once the vehicle is back on the ground.
3. Lower the vehicle off jack stands using Tesla-approved jack points and pucks.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk.
5. Close the frunk and allow vehicle systems to wake and re-initialize. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen if it was enabled.
6. Allow the air suspension (if equipped) to self-level before driving.

Verification

• Confirm no warning messages appear on the touchscreen after the vehicle wakes (suspension, ABS, stability control).
• With the vehicle on the ground, visually verify both bracket bolts are fully seated and brackets sit flush against the subframe with no bushing pinch-out.
• Test drive at low speed over uneven pavement: listen for clunks, squeaks, or knocks from the rear — a properly installed bushing should be silent.
• Perform a moderate cornering test: rear should feel planted with no lateral clunk during weight transfer.
• Recheck bracket bolt torque after the first 100–200 miles (Sway Bar Bracket Bolts: 47 Nm).
• Note: This job is not part of any scheduled Tesla service interval, but while the rear underbody is open, it's a good opportunity to inspect rear drive unit fluid condition — Tesla now recommends inspection rather than treating it as 'lifetime' fill.

More procedures for this vehicle