Replace the front sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. Job involves disconnecting both end links and unbolting the bar's frame brackets to drop the bar out from under the front subframe area.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front stabilizer bar for 2024 Model S LR AWD — verify by VIN
• Sway bar bushings (frame bracket) × 2 — OEM bushing kit matched to bar diameter — replace as a pair
• Sway bar end links × 2 — OEM end link assemblies — recommended replacement when bar is out

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the nose cowl panel in the frunk). On Plaid trims with the 16V Li-ion under the rear seat, disconnect that instead.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If the vehicle has air suspension (Performance trim), enter Service Mode via the touchscreen and select 'Jack Mode' to disable height changes before lifting. Standard coil-spring LR may skip this step.
7. Loosen front lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle on a lift using Tesla-approved lift points, or use a floor jack with rubber pucks at the designated jacking pads and support with rated jack stands.
9. Remove both front wheels.
10. Remove the front aero underbody shield(s) by removing the perimeter fasteners and trim clips to gain access to the sway bar and brackets.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   With the underbody exposed, photograph the sway bar's orientation, end-link routing, and bushing bracket position. Note any wiring harnesses or sensor leads (e.g., ride height sensor links on air-suspension cars) routed near the bar so they can be cleared without strain.
2. 2

   Disconnect left sway bar end link from the bar
   Insert an appropriately sized Allen key into the end-link stud to hold it stationary. Using a wrench, loosen and remove the end-link nut. Separate the link from the sway bar eye. Inspect the link's ball joint boot — if torn or sloppy, replace the link.
   ⚠Do not use an impact gun to spin the nut off without holding the stud — it will shred the internal ball joint.
3. 3

   Disconnect right sway bar end link from the bar
   Repeat the procedure on the passenger side: hold the stud with an Allen key and remove the link nut. Free the link from the bar eye.
4. 4

   Support and unbolt the sway bar frame brackets
   Support the sway bar with one hand or a transmission jack to prevent it from dropping. Remove the bolts retaining each frame/subframe bracket that clamps the sway bar to the chassis. Set bolts aside; inspect threads.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the sway bar from the vehicle
   Carefully maneuver the bar down and out of the chassis, working it past steering linkages, the front subframe, and any wiring. Note which direction the bar comes out (typically angled out one side) so reinstallation is straightforward.
   ⚠Do not pry against aluminum subframe surfaces or HV cable conduits. Route the bar around, not through, harnesses.
6. 6

   Transfer or replace bushings and brackets
   Slide the old D-bushings off the bar. Install new bushings on the new bar (or the original if reusing) in the correct orientation — the bushing slit typically faces forward or downward per OEM design. Apply only the manufacturer-specified rubber-safe lubricant to the bushing bore; do NOT use petroleum grease, which will degrade the rubber.
7. 7

   Position new sway bar
   Maneuver the new sway bar into the chassis in the reverse of removal. Center the bar laterally so the end-link eyes are equidistant from the frame rails before tightening brackets.
8. 8

   Install frame bracket bolts
   Start all bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum subframe. Snug them down evenly side-to-side, then torque to specification.
   ⚠Cross-threading into aluminum threads is easy and expensive — always start by hand.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect end links to the sway bar
   Insert each end-link stud through its sway bar eye. Hold the stud stationary with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification. Repeat on the opposite side.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final visual inspection
    Confirm the bar is centered, brackets are flush, end links are not preloaded into a bind, and no harnesses, brake lines, or sensor wires are pinched or rubbing against the bar.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front aero underbody shield(s) using all original fasteners and trim clips — missing aero panels reduce range and can flap loose at highway speed.
2. Reinstall both front wheels and snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the lug nuts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk (or under the rear seat for 16V Plaid).
6. Close the frunk.
7. If air suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen and allow the vehicle to self-level.

Verification

• Bounce-test the front of the vehicle and listen for clunks — a properly installed bar makes no noise over bumps.
• Take a low-speed test drive on a quiet road with mild left/right transitions; the car should feel planted with no metallic clunk on body roll.
• After approximately 50 miles, recheck sway bar bracket bolts and end-link nut torques — bushings can settle slightly.
• Check the touchscreen for any new chassis or vehicle dynamics alerts. None should appear from a sway bar replacement; if any appear, recheck connections and harness routing.
• While the vehicle is on a lift for this work, take the opportunity to verify other Tesla service intervals: tire rotation (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi), brake fluid age (replace every 2 years), and cabin air filter age (every 2 years, or 3 years for HEPA-equipped cars).

More procedures for this vehicle