suspension
Sway Bar - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
8
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the rear sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The rear subframe area is tight; the bar is removed by detaching both end links and the two bushing brackets, then maneuvering it out around the rear subframe.
Warnings
⚠️The HV battery pack runs the full length of the floor pan directly above the rear suspension area. Do NOT pierce, pry against, or place a jack pad on the battery case. Use only Tesla-designated lift points.
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. If you encounter an orange cable or HV component during this job, stop and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠Aluminum body and subframe components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only.
⚠Sway bar link studs spin freely — hold the inner shaft with an Allen key while loosening/torquing the nut to prevent damage.
ℹ️Do not lower the vehicle until all fasteners are torqued. Note that any fasteners specified as 'torque with vehicle weight on wheels' (control arm bolts, etc.) must be finalized at ride height if disturbed.
Tools required
2-post lift or 4 jack stands rated for EV curb weight (~4,800 lb)Essential
Metric socket set (10–21 mm)Essential
Metric Allen/hex bit set (for sway bar link shafts)Essential
Calibrated torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Breaker bar
Penetrating oil
Trim panel removal tool (for any aero/underbody fastener clips)
Insulated gloves (low-voltage work)
Parts
- Rear sway bar (matching trim/spec) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear stabilizer bar for 2024 Model S LR AWD — verify by VIN
- Rear sway bar bushings × 2 — OEM rear stabilizer bar bushings (replace with bar)
- Rear sway bar end links × 2 — OEM rear stabilizer link assemblies — recommended replacement if original
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (If this vehicle is equipped with the 16V Li-ion unit under the rear seat, disconnect that instead — verify by VIN.)
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if equipped with air suspension, to prevent the system from trying to self-level when raised.
- Loosen rear lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift using only Tesla-approved lift points (puck locations marked on the rocker pinch welds — use Tesla-spec lift pucks to avoid crushing the rocker).
- Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for the curb weight if not on a lift.
- Remove both rear wheels.
Procedure
- 1Remove rear underbody aero panel(s)Remove the rear underbody aero/diffuser panels as needed to access the rear sway bar bushing brackets and end links. Note clip and fastener locations — Tesla uses a mix of plastic push clips and small bolts. Set hardware aside in order.
- 2Inspect work areaVisually confirm there are no orange high-voltage cables routed near the sway bar or its mounting points. The rear sway bar mounts to the rear subframe, well below the HV pack — but if any orange cabling appears damaged or in the work path, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.⚠️Stop work immediately if any orange HV cable is exposed or damaged.
- 3Disconnect rear sway bar end links (both sides)At each end of the sway bar, the link connects to the bar with a stud and nut. Hold the inner shaft of the link with the appropriate Allen/hex key and back off the nut. Separate the link from the sway bar end. Repeat on the opposite side. If the links are worn or rubber bushings are cracked, plan to replace them.⚠Do not use an impact gun without holding the shaft — the stud will spin and shred the internal bushing.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 4Support the sway barPlace a transmission jack or have an assistant support the sway bar before removing the bracket bolts. The bar is not heavy but will drop once both brackets are loose.
- 5Remove sway bar bracket boltsLocate the two sway bar bushing brackets that secure the bar to the rear subframe. Remove the bracket bolts on both sides. Retain the brackets — bushings are typically replaced with the bar.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 6Maneuver the sway bar outCarefully work the rear sway bar out around the rear subframe and suspension components. Clearance is tight — you may need to rotate the bar and angle it past the rear lower control arms. Do not force it against the HV battery case or aluminum subframe.⚠Do not lever against the HV battery enclosure under any circumstances.
- 7Transfer bushings to new barSlide the new bushings onto the new sway bar in the correct orientation (split typically faces forward or downward per the manufacturer's marking). Apply only the bushing manufacturer's recommended lubricant — do NOT use petroleum grease on rubber bushings as it will degrade them.
- 8Install new sway barManeuver the new bar into position, mirroring the removal path. Loosely position the bushings and brackets against the subframe and start all bracket bolts by hand to allow alignment.
- 9Torque sway bar bracket boltsOnce both brackets are properly seated and the bar is centered (equal spacing on left/right ends), torque the bracket bolts to specification.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect end linksReattach each end link to the sway bar. Hold the link's internal shaft with the Allen key while torquing the nut to specification. Confirm the link bushings/boots are seated properly.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall underbody aero panelsReinstall the rear underbody aero/diffuser panels with all original clips and fasteners. Missing aero panels affect range and high-speed stability on this vehicle. Torque any panel fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
Reassembly
- Reinstall rear wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual (do not guess).
- Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk (or under rear seat, as applicable).
- Close the frunk and allow the vehicle to fully wake. Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen.
- If the vehicle was placed in Jack Mode, exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow air suspension (if equipped) to self-level.
Verification
- Visually re-inspect both bushing brackets and both end link nuts for proper seating and full thread engagement.
- Bounce-test each rear corner — listen for clunks or knocks indicating a loose link or bushing.
- Road test on a smooth road, then over a known bump or expansion joint. The rear should feel planted with no rattles from the rear suspension.
- On the touchscreen, check Service / Vehicle status — no new chassis or suspension faults should be present.
- If equipped with air suspension, confirm the rear corners level correctly and that no ride height faults appear.
- Re-check sway bar bracket bolts after the first 100–200 miles of driving.
- Note: While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to check Tesla's other service-interval items not covered by 'no scheduled maintenance' marketing — brake fluid (every 2 years), tire rotation (every ~6,250 mi), and rear drive unit gear oil (initial 12,500 mi, then per Tesla's current interval guidance).