steering

Tie Rod End - Outer

for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

48 min

Tools

Steps

Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. This is a routine steering/suspension job, but a four-wheel alignment is mandatory afterward to preserve tire life and Autopilot calibration.

Warnings

⚠️Never lift the Model S on the battery case or pinch welds — use only the manufacturer-designated jack points with an approved puck. The HV pack runs the full length of the floor.

⚠Aluminum body and subframe components — do not strike castings with a steel hammer. Use a tie rod puller or dead-blow only when necessary.

⚠A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after this repair. Model S uses camera-based driver assistance that depends on accurate steering geometry; misalignment can affect Autopilot/Autosteer behavior.

ℹ️Reuse of the castle nut cotter pin is not permitted — install a new one.

ℹ️Do NOT loosen any orange high-voltage cabling or shielding while routing tools near the front subframe.

Tools required

Floor jack rated for EV weight (Model S ~4,800 lb)Essential

Jack stands rated for EV weightEssential

Tesla-approved jack pad (puck) to protect battery caseEssential

21mm lug nut socket (or trim-correct size)Essential

Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential

Tie rod end puller / pickle fork (puller preferred to preserve boot)Essential

Open-end wrench set (metric)Essential

Soft-jaw vise grips or backup wrench for inner tie rod flats

Calipers or tape measure for thread-count referenceEssential

Paint marker or scribe

Penetrating oil

Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pin)Essential

Parts

Outer tie rod end assembly (left or right as required) × 1 — Tesla Model S 2024 OEM outer tie rod end — verify by VIN
Cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec replacement cotter pin

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (Some 2021+ Plaid units use a 16V lithium battery under the rear seat — verify by trim.)
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Place the vehicle into Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if the vehicle has air suspension (Performance/Plaid) — this prevents the system from trying to re-level once lifted. Standard coil-spring trims do not require this.
Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated jack points using an approved puck, and support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1
Mark thread reference position
Before loosening anything, use a paint marker or scribe to mark the position of the inner tie rod lock nut against the inner tie rod shaft. Optionally, count and record the exposed threads on the inner tie rod. This gives a starting toe reference so the vehicle is drivable to the alignment shop.
2
Loosen the inner tie rod lock nut
Hold the inner tie rod with a backup wrench on the manufacturer-provided flats. Loosen (do not remove) the jam/lock nut between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end. Apply penetrating oil if seized and allow to soak.
⚠Do not twist the inner tie rod itself or you may damage the steering rack bellows or internal ball joint.
3
Remove cotter pin and castle nut
Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end's castle nut at the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut completely. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is mandatory on reassembly.
Torque spec
Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4
Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
Use a tie rod end puller to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle forks if possible — they will tear the boot of a reusable joint and can mar the aluminum knuckle. Support the tie rod end as it releases.
⚠The Model S front knuckle is aluminum. Do not pry against it with steel tools or strike it with a hammer.
5
Unthread the outer tie rod end
Count the number of full turns required to unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record this count — it is the second toe reference for re-installation.
6
Compare old vs. new part
Place the old and new outer tie rod ends side by side. Confirm thread direction, taper angle, stud diameter, and overall length match. Transfer the lock nut to the new unit, or use the new lock nut if supplied.
7
Install new outer tie rod end
Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft using the same number of turns recorded during removal, stopping at the scribe/paint mark. Do not yet tighten the lock nut — final torque is set after alignment.
8
Seat tapered stud into knuckle
Insert the new tie rod end's tapered stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Rotate the nut only in the tightening direction to align the next castellation slot with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align.
⚠If the slot does not align within spec, replace the nut rather than over- or under-torquing.
Torque spec
Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9
Install new cotter pin
Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud, then bend the legs to lock per OEM specification.
10
Snug the lock nut (final torque deferred)
Snug the inner tie rod lock nut by hand-wrench against the new outer tie rod end to keep toe stable for the drive to the alignment shop. Do NOT apply final torque yet — final tightening occurs after the alignment technician sets toe.

Reassembly

Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk and reinstall the nose cowl.
If the vehicle was placed in Jack Mode (air suspension), it will exit Jack Mode automatically once the system detects normal ride height after a short drive.
Drive carefully and at low speed directly to an alignment shop — the toe is only approximate.
After alignment, have the technician torque the inner Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification while holding the outer tie rod end stationary.

Verification

Confirm no play in the new tie rod end by grasping the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and rocking — there should be no clunk or lateral free play.
Verify the cotter pin legs are bent and secure, and that no thread protrusion past the castle nut has been compromised.
Perform a four-wheel alignment to OEM specification — Model S relies on accurate steering geometry for Autopilot lane centering and Autosteer behavior.
After alignment and short test drive, recheck that the Tie Rod Lock Nut was set to its CRITICAL final torque.
Test drive: confirm steering wheel is centered, no pull, and no clunks over bumps. If the steering wheel is off-center, Tesla service or a qualified shop can perform a steering angle sensor recalibration.
While the vehicle is up, this is a good opportunity to inspect items Tesla recommends servicing on time-based intervals: brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2–3 years for HEPA), tire rotation (every 6,250 mi), and coolant inspection (4 yr / 50,000 mi).