Replace both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. This restores worn steering linkage and requires a four-wheel alignment afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model S 2024 LR AWD, left) × 1 — OEM Tesla outer tie rod, driver side — verify by VIN
• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model S 2024 LR AWD, right) × 1 — OEM Tesla outer tie rod, passenger side — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin (castle nut) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin, sized to castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (low-voltage) battery located under the nose cowl panel per the architecture notes. Verify Plaid/Performance variants for 16V Li-ion location if applicable.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved lift points with the correct jack pad pucks. Support on rated jack stands.
8. Remove both front wheels.
9. Center and lock the steering wheel (steering wheel lock or seatbelt through the wheel) to prevent the clockspring from being damaged while the tie rods are disconnected.
10. Apply penetrating oil to the tie rod lock nuts and castle nut threads; allow to soak.

Procedure

1. 1

   Record current tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, measure and record the exposed thread length between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod lock nut on each side. Mark the lock nut position on the inner tie rod shaft with a paint pen. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting until alignment.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod flats with a wrench and break loose the outer tie rod lock nut. Do not fully remove it yet — back it off only enough to allow the outer tie rod to spin off later.
   ⚠Do not let the inner tie rod rotate or twist — this can damage the inner tie rod boot and rack seal.
3. 3

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Discard it — never reuse a cotter pin. Remove the castle nut.
4. 4

   Separate tie rod end from knuckle
   Using a proper tie rod end separator (puller-style preferred), break the taper free from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork damage to the boot if you intend to reuse anything. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — striking with steel hammer can crack it. Use a separator tool.
5. 5

   Count revolutions and unthread outer tie rod
   Spin the outer tie rod off the inner tie rod, COUNTING THE EXACT NUMBER OF TURNS. Record this for each side. This allows the new tie rod to be installed at nearly the same toe setting before alignment.
6. 6

   Install new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod the SAME number of turns counted during removal. Snug the lock nut against the outer tie rod by hand for now — final torque happens after alignment.
7. 7

   Reinstall stud into knuckle and torque castle nut
   Insert the tapered stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to the verified specification. If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until aligned. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over properly.
   ⚠Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Repeat on the opposite side
   Perform steps 1–7 on the other side of the vehicle using the recorded measurements for that side.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Preliminary lock nut snug
   With both new tie rod ends installed, snug each lock nut against the outer tie rod end. Do NOT final-torque yet — leave loose enough that the alignment shop can adjust toe. Final torque is done after alignment.
   ℹ️Tie rod lock nut final torque (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft) is applied AFTER the four-wheel alignment is performed.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels.
2. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
5. Close the frunk and verify it latches fully.
6. Power on the vehicle. Allow the system to wake; clear any residual chassis or steering messages on the touchscreen.
7. Drive carefully (low speed, straight line) only as far as needed to reach the alignment rack — toe is approximate at best until alignment is performed.
8. After four-wheel alignment is complete, torque each tie rod lock nut to the verified specification while holding the inner tie rod flats.

Verification

• Confirm both castle nuts are torqued to 55 Nm and that NEW cotter pins are installed and bent over correctly.
• Confirm tie rod boots are intact and seated; no twisting of the inner tie rod boot.
• Verify steering wheel returns to roughly center with the wheels straight (final centering happens at alignment).
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed — Tesla's spec sheet for 2024 Model S LR AWD must be used (toe, camber, caster, thrust angle). Staggered 19/21/22" tire setups are unforgiving of even minor toe errors.
• After alignment, re-verify both tie rod lock nuts are at 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).
• Test drive: confirm no clunks over bumps, no steering wheel pull, no new fault messages on the touchscreen, and that Autopilot lane-keeping behaves normally (a misaligned Model S will fight the lane-centering system).

More procedures for this vehicle