Replacement of a rear trailing arm bushing on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The trailing arm (fore-aft link) attaches the rear knuckle to the body bracket; bushing replacement requires arm removal and a hydraulic press or in-situ bushing tool.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear trailing arm bushing (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) rear trailing arm bushing — verify by VIN
• Trailing arm-to-body through-bolt and nut (replace if single-use/stretch) × 1 — OEM specification — replace if marked single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel (some 2021+ Plaid use a 16V Li-ion unit under the rear seat — verify by VIN).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If air suspension equipped: before disconnecting 12V, enter the touchscreen Service menu and enable Jack Mode / Transport Mode to prevent the system from trying to level.
7. Chock the front wheels.
8. Break the rear lug nuts loose while the wheels are still on the ground.
9. Lift the rear of the vehicle at the Tesla-designated rocker lift points using a rubber puck. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight (Model S curb weight ~4,800 lb).
10. Remove rear wheels.
11. Inspect the trailing arm, body-side bracket, and surrounding fasteners; photograph orientation and any alignment cam marks before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Identify and access the trailing arm
   Locate the rear trailing arm — the fore-aft link running from the rear knuckle forward to a body-mounted bracket on the underbody. Remove any aero underbody panels or wheel-well liner fasteners necessary to access both ends of the arm. Note routing of any ABS/wheel-speed sensor harness or parking brake cable that runs along the arm.
   ⚠Underbody panels may have plastic push-pin clips that break easily — have replacements on hand.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/hub
   Place a transmission jack or secondary floor jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle/lower control arm to support the suspension. This prevents the assembly from dropping when the trailing arm is unbolted and avoids stressing the half-shaft inner CV joint.
3. 3

   Disconnect harnesses and ancillary attachments
   Free the wheel-speed sensor harness and any retainer clips from the trailing arm. If the parking brake cable or any line is routed along the arm, release the routing clips so the arm can drop without tugging the harness.
   ⚠Do not stretch or pinch the wheel-speed sensor harness — replacement requires hub disassembly.
4. 4

   Remove the knuckle-side fastener
   Remove the bolt/nut securing the trailing arm to the rear knuckle. Mark the position of any eccentric/cam alignment washers before removal so they can be returned to approximately the same position (a final alignment is still required).
5. 5

   Remove the body-side through-bolt
   Support the arm by hand, then remove the through-bolt that passes through the bushing into the body bracket. The bolt may be long; ensure clearance to withdraw it fully. Lower the trailing arm out of the vehicle.
   ⚠Inspect the body bracket for cracks or elongation — aluminum brackets do not tolerate impact damage. If damaged, STOP and consult a body shop with Tesla aluminum certification.
6. 6

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the trailing arm in a press. Using bushing driver cups sized to the bushing OD (push) and the arm bore (receive), press the old bushing out in the manufacturer-specified direction. If using an in-situ bushing tool instead, follow the tool maker's setup. Clean the arm bore thoroughly and inspect for cracks, ovality, or corrosion.
   ⚠Do not heat the aluminum arm with an open flame to assist removal — it will anneal and weaken the metal.
7. 7

   Press in the new bushing
   Lubricate the bushing OD with the bushing manufacturer's specified assembly lubricant only (typically soapy water or a rubber-safe lube — never petroleum grease on rubber bushings). Press in squarely until the bushing is seated to the correct depth/orientation per the manufacturer specification. Many trailing arm bushings have a clocking arrow or void orientation that must align with the load axis — verify before pressing fully home.
   ⚠Incorrect bushing clocking will cause rapid failure and rear-end clunk. Verify orientation before final seating.
8. 8

   Reinstall the trailing arm
   Lift the arm into position. Insert the body-side through-bolt first (hand tight), then align and insert the knuckle-side fastener with any cam washers in their original positions. Snug both fasteners but do NOT final-torque yet.
9. 9

   Reconnect harnesses and routing
   Re-secure the wheel-speed sensor harness and any cable routing clips to the arm. Verify there is no tension or pinch at full suspension travel.
10. 10

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle to ride height
    Reinstall the rear wheels and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the full weight is on the wheels — either fully on the ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment stands that allow access to the fasteners. This is required so the bushing is torqued in its neutral (loaded) position.
    ⚠If air suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode and allow the vehicle to settle to normal ride height before final torque.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final torque trailing arm fasteners at ride height
    With vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the trailing arm body-side and knuckle-side fasteners. Use the verified Control Arm Bolts spec for the suspension link fasteners. Final-torque the lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
    ⚠️These are CRITICAL fasteners. Use a calibrated torque wrench. An under-torqued trailing arm bolt can back out and cause loss of rear-end control.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall any underbody aero panels and wheel-well liner fasteners removed for access.
2. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery and reinstall the frunk cowl/cover.
3. If air suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode/Transport Mode in the touchscreen Service menu and allow the system to self-level.
4. Cycle the vehicle on, then off, and verify no chassis or ABS warnings on the touchscreen.
5. Schedule a four-wheel alignment — rear toe and camber must be checked after trailing arm service.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension, ABS, or stability-control warnings on the touchscreen after a key cycle.
• Test drive at low speed first: listen for clunks over expansion joints or during throttle on/off transitions — a properly clocked, properly torqued bushing should be silent.
• Re-check both trailing arm fasteners for proper torque after the first 100 miles (aluminum/rubber interfaces can settle).
• Visually inspect the new bushing after the test drive for any sign of walking out of the bore or misalignment.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed; verify rear toe and camber are within Tesla Model S specifications.
• While the vehicle is up for alignment, this is a good opportunity to check Tesla's other recommended service items: brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (2 years standard, 3 years for HEPA), and tire rotation (every 6,250 mi).

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