Replacement of a rear upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. This is a chassis-only job with no HV system involvement, but final torque must be applied at ride height to preserve bushing life.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear Upper Control Arm assembly (OEM Tesla Model S 2024) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear upper control arm — verify by VIN
• Ball joint nut (replace if self-locking nut shows wear) × 1 — OEM-spec self-locking nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (Note: some 2021+ Plaid use a 16V Li-ion unit under the rear seat — verify by VIN before disconnecting.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enable Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the rear of the vehicle using Tesla-approved puck adapters at the factory jack points and support on rated jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document the suspension geometry
   Before disassembly, photograph the upper control arm position, any alignment cam markings, and how the arm is oriented at both inner and outer mounting points. The rear upper control arm influences camber — note any factory paint marks on the inner cam bolts.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/upright
   Place a floor jack with a soft pad under the rear lower control arm or knuckle to support the suspension's weight. This prevents the assembly from dropping when the upper arm is disconnected and keeps tension off the half-shaft and brake hose.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
3. 3

   Disconnect the rear sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar link or its bracket obstructs access to the upper control arm bolts, remove the sway bar link nut. Hold the link's shaft with the appropriate Allen/hex key while loosening the nut to prevent the shaft from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect the outer ball joint from the knuckle
   Remove the ball joint nut securing the upper control arm to the rear upright. If a cotter pin or retainer is present, remove it first. Use a ball joint separator to free the taper — do NOT hammer on the aluminum knuckle. Replace the nut if it is a single-use self-locking type.
   ⚠Striking the aluminum upright with a steel hammer can crack it. Use a separator tool.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Mark and remove the inner control arm bolt(s)
   Mark the inner mounting bolt/cam position relative to the subframe with a paint pen so the new arm can be installed close to factory alignment. Loosen and remove the inner bolt(s) securing the upper control arm to the subframe. Support the arm as the bolt is withdrawn.
   ℹ️Marking cam positions saves alignment time, but a four-wheel alignment is still mandatory after this repair.
6. 6

   Remove the upper control arm
   Maneuver the arm out of the subframe pocket and away from the upright. Inspect bushings on the subframe side and the ball joint boot on the new part before installation.
7. 7

   Install the new upper control arm — inner side
   Position the new arm into the inner subframe mount and install the inner bolt(s) by hand, aligning to the paint mark made earlier. Do NOT final-torque yet — leave snug only.
8. 8

   Connect the outer ball joint to the upright
   Insert the ball joint stud into the upright. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. If the design uses a cotter pin, install a new cotter pin after torquing.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the sway bar end link (if disconnected)
   Reattach the sway bar link to its mount. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle to ride height
    Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground (or onto drive-on ramps / a wheel-engaging hoist) so that full vehicle weight loads the suspension at ride height. This is required before the inner control arm bolt is final-torqued.
    ⚠Torquing the inner control arm bolt at full suspension droop will damage the bushing.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final-torque the inner control arm bolt at ride height
    With the vehicle at ride height and weight on the wheels, final-torque the inner control arm bolt(s) to specification. Then final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm all fasteners (ball joint nut, inner control arm bolt, sway bar link nut, lug nuts) are torqued to specification.
2. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery.
3. If air suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode and allow the system to self-level. Cycle the vehicle through Low/High ride height to verify normal operation.
4. Clear any chassis fault codes that may have set during the 12V disconnect via the touchscreen if accessible; otherwise allow the vehicle to self-clear after a normal drive cycle.
5. Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — rear upper control arm replacement always changes camber and often toe.

Verification

• Test drive at low speed in a parking lot first: listen for clunks over bumps, which would indicate a loose bolt or unseated ball joint.
• After the test drive, re-check the ball joint nut and inner control arm bolt torque values.
• Confirm the vehicle tracks straight on a flat road and that the steering wheel does not pull.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed using Tesla specifications — rear camber and toe must be set within OEM tolerance.
• Inspect the new ball joint boot and bushing for any damage from installation.
• While the vehicle is up for alignment, this is an appropriate time to check related Tesla service intervals: brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years; 3 years on HEPA-equipped Model S), and drive unit gear oil (Tesla now recommends inspection rather than 'lifetime').

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