Replacement of a rear door power window regulator on a 2024 Tesla Model S. The rear glass and regulator assembly are accessed by removing the rear door trim panel and water shield, then unbolting the regulator from the door inner skin.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear door power window regulator assembly (with motor) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S rear door regulator — verify side (LH/RH) by VIN
• Replacement butyl/sealant for water shield (if torn during removal) × 1 — Generic automotive butyl rope sealant
• Plastic trim retainer clips (replace any broken on removal) × 1 — Tesla-spec door panel clips

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, shift to P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even though this is a non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and remove the nose cowl/under-hood cover to access the 12V battery. Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal (or follow the documented Service Mode 12V isolation procedure for this model year). Tape/insulate the terminal so it cannot spring back.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. Lower the affected rear window approximately halfway (do this BEFORE disconnecting 12V) to expose the regulator-to-glass fasteners through the access holes — or leave fully up if you intend to tape the glass and access the bolts via the service holes. Choose one strategy before disconnecting power.
6. Confirm the correct side (LH/RH) of replacement regulator and that motor connector matches the OEM connector.
7. Lay a soft blanket on the door sill and adjacent rear quarter to protect the aluminum body.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear door interior trim panel
   Using a non-marring plastic trim tool, carefully release the door pull/switch bezel and disconnect its electrical connector. Remove any visible screws hidden behind the bezel and along the lower edge of the door panel. Starting at the lower front corner, gently work around the perimeter releasing the plastic retainer clips. Lift the panel up and off the window-belt seal. Disconnect any remaining harness connectors (tweeter, courtesy lamp, child-lock if applicable).
   ⚠Pull straight outward at clip locations only. Prying mid-panel will crack the door card.
2. 2

   Peel back water/vapor shield
   Carefully peel the plastic vapor barrier away from the butyl seal, working slowly to avoid tearing. Fold it back and tape it out of the way. If butyl is dry or torn, plan to replace it during reassembly.
3. 3

   Secure the window glass
   Raise the glass to the fully-up position (if not already done before disconnecting 12V; if power is already off, manually lift glass with hands inside the door cavity supporting the bottom edge). Use strong painter's tape across the top of the glass and over the top of the door frame in two locations to hold the glass securely in the up position throughout the remainder of the job.
   ⚠Unsupported rear door glass can fall into the door cavity and shatter, or cut your hand on the lower edge.
4. 4

   Disconnect regulator motor connector
   Locate the window regulator motor electrical connector inside the door cavity. Release the connector lock tab and disconnect. Free the harness from any retaining clips on the regulator assembly.
5. 5

   Release glass from regulator carrier
   Through the access holes in the door inner skin, locate the two fasteners (or clamp screws) that secure the window glass to the regulator carrier/sash. Loosen and remove these. The glass should now be fully supported only by the painter's tape on the door frame.
   ⚠Confirm tape is holding before removing the last glass-to-carrier fastener.
6. 6

   Unbolt the regulator assembly
   Remove the regulator-to-door bolts that secure the regulator rails and motor to the door inner panel. Note the location and length of each bolt as they are removed — replace in the same locations during reassembly. Support the regulator as the last bolts come out.
   Torque spec

   Module Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Maneuver regulator out of door
   Tilt and rotate the regulator assembly to clear the inner door structure and remove it through the largest access opening. Take note of the orientation for installing the new unit.
   ⚠Door inner structure is aluminum with sharp stamped edges. Wear cut-resistant gloves.
8. 8

   Compare and prepare new regulator
   Place the old and new regulators side by side. Confirm rail length, motor location, connector type, and carrier position match. Pre-position the carrier roughly to where the glass tabs will line up.
9. 9

   Install new regulator into door
   Maneuver the new regulator through the access opening and align it with the mounting holes in the door inner skin. Start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum door structure. Tighten in a cross pattern to specification.
   ⚠Aluminum door panel — start every fastener by hand and do not exceed the listed torque.
   Torque spec

   Module Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Re-attach glass to regulator carrier
    Carefully release just enough tape to lower the glass onto the carrier. Align the glass holes/tabs with the carrier and install the glass-to-carrier fasteners. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Remove the painter's tape only after the glass is fully secured.
11. 11

    Reconnect motor and route harness
    Reconnect the regulator motor electrical connector and verify it locks. Re-seat the harness into any retainer clips. Visually verify the regulator rails are clear of the harness and will not pinch it during travel.

Reassembly

1. Re-seal and re-adhere the water/vapor shield using fresh butyl rope sealant if the original was damaged. A poor seal will cause water leaks into the cabin and corrosion of the door speaker.
2. Reconnect the door panel harness connectors (switch pack, tweeter, courtesy lamp).
3. Align the door panel to the top window-belt molding first, then press in the perimeter clips one at a time. Reinstall any screws hidden behind the pull bezel.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal. Torque to specification.
5. Reinstall the frunk nose cowl/cover.
6. Re-initialize window auto-up/auto-down: with the door closed, hold the window switch DOWN until the glass is fully open and hold ~1 second past stop, then hold the switch UP until fully closed and hold ~1 second past stop. Confirm one-touch operation in both directions and that anti-pinch reverses the window when an obstruction is present.

Verification

• Cycle the rear window fully up and down at least 3 times — motion should be smooth, quiet, and without binding or 'stair-step' behavior.
• Confirm one-touch auto-up and auto-down both function after re-initialization.
• Verify anti-pinch: place a soft object (rolled towel) in the window opening during auto-up — the window must stop and reverse.
• Spray water along the top of the door glass and verify no leaks into the door card or footwell (confirms vapor barrier was resealed correctly).
• Check the Tesla touchscreen for any door/window-related alerts. Clear any transient alerts and verify they do not return after a drive cycle.
• Confirm the child-lock function (if equipped on this door) still operates correctly.
• Torque references used: Battery Terminal Bolts (6.0 Nm) on 12V reconnection; regulator Mounting Bolts (27.0 Nm) — verify against the Tesla Service Manual for your specific VIN before final torque.

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