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2024 TESLA MODEL S

Plaid Tri Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs91Labor363Torque5104Fluid8DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls6
suspension

Ball Joint - Lower

for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.8 h
Tools
13
Steps
12

Replace a worn lower ball joint on a 2024 Model S Plaid. On this platform the lower ball joint is integrated into the lower control arm assembly, so the procedure typically requires replacing the lower control arm rather than pressing a separate ball joint.

Warnings

⚠️Model S Plaid is a high-voltage EV. Do not cut, pierce, or contact any orange cable. If any orange cable is exposed near the work area, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠️Critical fasteners on this procedure are torque-to-yield or use single-use cotter pins. Reusing them can cause loss of steering control.
Body and many suspension brackets on Model S are aluminum. Do NOT strike with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only. Damaged aluminum cannot be welded with standard MIG equipment.
This Plaid is equipped with adaptive air suspension. Before lifting, set the vehicle into Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service > Jack Mode) to prevent the system from attempting to self-level on the lift.
Wheel alignment is mandatory after any lower control arm / ball joint service. Do not return the vehicle to service without a four-wheel alignment.
ℹ️If your replacement part is a true standalone ball joint (not the full arm), a hydraulic press and OEM-spec ball joint adapters are required — do not heat or hammer the joint into the aluminum knuckle.

Tools required

Hydraulic floor jack (3-ton minimum)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weight (Model S Plaid ~4800 lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad adapters (puck)Essential
Torque wrench, 1/2" drive (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Torque wrench, 3/8" drive (10–60 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (incl. deep sockets)Essential
Metric hex/Allen key setEssential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod splitterEssential
Pry bar
Wheel chocksEssential
Cotter pin pliers / diagonal cuttersEssential
Dead-blow or rubber mallet (NO steel hammer on aluminum)Essential
Wheel alignment equipment (post-repair)Essential

Parts

  • Lower control arm assembly with integrated ball joint (manufacturer-specified for Model S Plaid) × 1 — Tesla OEM lower control arm — verify by VIN
  • Ball joint castle nut cotter pin × 1 — OEM cotter pin (new, single-use)
  • Steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — OEM pinch bolt (new, single-use)

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake, and chock the wheels that will remain on the ground.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. On the touchscreen, enable Service Mode and select Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
  4. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion, depending on build) low-voltage battery located under the front nose cowl panel. Refer to architecture notes to confirm location for this VIN.
  5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure whether a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Confirm which corner is being serviced. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
  7. Lift the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack pad locations and support on jack stands rated for the Plaid's curb weight.
  8. Remove the wheel and set aside on its face to protect the finish.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect and document
    Inspect the lower ball joint for play by levering between the control arm and knuckle. Photograph the routing of the ABS/wheel-speed sensor harness, brake line clip, and any wiring along the control arm — these must be returned to identical positions to avoid chafing against the rotating tire/strut.
  2. 2
    Disconnect sway bar end link
    Hold the sway bar link stud with an Allen key and remove the nut securing the link to the lower control arm (or strut, depending on configuration). Swing the link clear of the work area.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Support the knuckle
    Place a jack stand or transmission jack lightly under the lower control arm / knuckle to control its movement once the ball joint is released. The half-shaft and strut will hold the knuckle, but unsupported it can swing and damage the CV boot or brake hose.
    Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or ABS sensor wire.
  4. 4
    Release the ball joint pinch / castle nut
    Determine the joint retention method on this specific build: Model S front lowers typically use a castle nut with cotter pin securing the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin, then remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it is single-use.
    If your knuckle uses a pinch-bolt clamp instead of a castle nut, remove the pinch bolt and discard it — pinch bolts are single-use on this platform.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Separate ball joint stud from knuckle
    Using a proper ball joint separator tool, press the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle. Do NOT use a pickle fork if the ball joint is being reused or if the boot must remain intact. Do not pry against aluminum suspension components with excessive force.
    Aluminum knuckle and arm — apply force only at designed contact points. Never hammer the knuckle directly.
  6. 6
    Disconnect control arm at chassis (if replacing arm assembly)
    If the lower ball joint is integrated into the lower control arm (typical for Model S), remove the control arm-to-subframe through-bolts. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cam markings before removal — mark cam position with paint pen to ease initial alignment.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Remove the control arm / ball joint
    Carefully lower and extract the control arm from the subframe pocket. Inspect bushings, the subframe mounting bores, and the knuckle taper for damage, corrosion, or elongation. Clean the knuckle taper with a lint-free rag — do not use abrasives.
  8. 8
    Install new lower control arm / ball joint
    Position the new manufacturer-specified lower control arm into the subframe. Hand-thread the chassis bolts but do not torque yet — bushings should be tightened at ride height. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper, ensuring it seats fully and squarely.
    ℹ️If a separate ball joint is being pressed into the arm, follow the arm manufacturer's press procedure and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
  9. 9
    Torque ball joint castle nut and install new cotter pin
    Install the castle nut on the ball joint stud and torque to specification. If the castellation does not align with the stud's cotter pin hole at spec torque, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
    ⚠️Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further. A loose ball joint nut can cause catastrophic suspension separation.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reinstall sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then final-torque control arm chassis bolts at this loaded (ride-height) position to set the bushings correctly.
    Torquing control arm bushing bolts with the suspension fully drooped will preload the bushings and shorten their life.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Final wheel torque
    Lower the vehicle fully to the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
  2. Close the frunk and re-enter the vehicle. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen so the air suspension can re-level.
  3. Allow the air suspension to cycle and self-level; verify no faults appear on the instrument cluster.
  4. Confirm there are no chassis, ABS, or stability control alerts on the touchscreen.
  5. Drive the vehicle to a four-wheel alignment rack — alignment is mandatory after any ball joint or lower control arm service.

Verification

  • Perform a four-wheel alignment to factory specification for 2024 Model S Plaid (values vary by tire size — 19"/21"/22"). Do not skip — Plaid produces high cornering loads and misalignment will destroy tires quickly.
  • Test drive at low speed first: check for clunks over bumps, pulling, or steering wheel offset.
  • After test drive, re-inspect the cotter pin, castle nut, and control arm bolts for any movement or witness marks.
  • Verify ABS, traction, and stability control function normally — no fault icons on the instrument display.
  • Re-check ride height via Service Mode; confirm air suspension levels match side-to-side within Tesla spec.
  • Note: While performing this service, this is a good opportunity to verify brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years) and confirm tire rotation status (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi).

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