Replacement of upper and lower front ball joints on a 2024 Model S Plaid. On this chassis the upper ball joint is integrated into the upper control arm assembly (replaced as a unit), while the lower ball joint is serviced as part of the lower control arm or as a pressed component depending on the manufacturer-specified service kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly with integrated ball joint (manufacturer-specified) × 2 — Tesla Model S 2021+ refresh front upper control arm — verify by VIN
• Lower ball joint or lower control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified) × 2 — Verify by VIN whether OEM service is component or full arm
• Ball joint castle nut cotter pins × 4 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Steering knuckle pinch bolt × 2 — Single-use pinch bolt — replace

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery: on 2024 Model S Plaid this is the 16V lithium unit located under the rear seat (verify by VIN — some units are still in the frunk under the nose cowl).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. On the touchscreen (before disconnecting 12V/16V) enable 'Jack Mode' to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle ONLY at Tesla-approved lift points using rubber pucks — do NOT contact the HV pack or its frame rails. Support securely on jack stands.
9. Remove front wheels and set aside on the aluminum-side face.
10. Inspect both ball joints, control arms, and bushings for damage; confirm scope of replacement before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect sway bar end link
   At the affected corner, hold the sway bar end link stud with an Allen key and remove the upper nut. Swing the link clear of the lower control arm to free up suspension travel.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Separate steering knuckle from tie rod (clearance)
   If access requires it, remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the outer tie rod end and separate using a tie rod puller. Do not strike the knuckle — use the puller tool only.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — pickle fork use can damage the boot and the casting. Prefer a screw-type separator.
3. 3

   Release upper ball joint from knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut, then loosen the nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to retain the joint while breaking it loose. Use a ball joint separator to pop the taper free, then remove the nut completely.
   ⚠Keep the nut partially threaded during separation — a released ball joint under spring/air pressure can swing violently.
4. 4

   Release lower ball joint from knuckle
   Remove the lower ball joint castle nut cotter pin, loosen but do not fully remove the nut, and use a separator to break the taper. Support the knuckle from below as you remove the final nut so the knuckle does not drop and damage the CV axle or wheel speed sensor harness.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS sensor wire — support it with a bungee or stand.
5. 5

   Remove upper control arm (if integrated upper joint)
   The upper ball joint on this chassis is integrated into the upper control arm. Remove the inboard upper control arm bolts at the chassis bracket and withdraw the arm. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cams for reinstallation reference.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove lower ball joint or lower control arm
   Per the manufacturer-specified service kit, either (a) press the lower ball joint out of the lower control arm using a ball joint press, or (b) remove the lower control arm by unbolting its inboard chassis fasteners. Mark the position of any eccentric alignment bolts before removal.
   ⚠Do NOT heat aluminum control arms to free a stuck joint — heat ruins the temper and the arm must be replaced.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Inspect mating surfaces
   Inspect the knuckle tapers for galling or ovaling, inspect bushings on retained arms, and verify the chassis brackets are not deformed. Replace any damaged components before reassembly. Clean tapers with a lint-free rag — no abrasives.
8. 8

   Install new lower ball joint / lower arm
   Press in the new lower ball joint or install the new lower control arm. Start the inboard bolts hand-tight only — final torque is applied later at ride height. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper.
9. 9

   Install new upper control arm / upper ball joint
   Position the new upper arm into its chassis bracket, install inboard bolts hand-tight, and seat the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle taper.
10. 10

    Torque ball joint castle nuts and install new cotter pins
    Torque the upper ball joint castle nut and the lower ball joint castle nut to the manufacturer-specified value. If the slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never back off) until alignment is achieved, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per OEM practice.
    ⚠️Always tighten — never loosen — to align the cotter pin slot. A loosened castle nut can back off in service.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall tie rod end (if removed)
    Reseat the tie rod taper into the knuckle, torque the castle nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual — and install a new cotter pin.
12. 12

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar end link to the lower control arm, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheels and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
2. Lower the vehicle so full weight rests on the wheels (or set on drive-on ramps / alignment rack at ride height).
3. With the suspension loaded at ride height, final-torque the upper and lower control arm inboard bolts to specification.
4. Reconnect the low-voltage (16V/12V) battery.
5. Wake the vehicle, confirm 'Jack Mode' is exited, and allow the air suspension to self-level.
6. Perform a four-wheel alignment — camber, caster, and toe will be out of spec after this repair.
7. Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks, then at highway speed to confirm tracking and absence of vibration.

Verification

• With the vehicle at ride height, verify no play in either ball joint by levering the wheel at 6/12 and 3/9 positions — there should be zero perceptible deflection at the joint.
• Confirm new cotter pins are installed at both ball joints and at the tie rod end if disturbed; legs bent properly.
• Verify the touchscreen shows no suspension, ABS, or steering angle faults. Recalibrate steering angle sensor if any DTC is present.
• Confirm air suspension levels correctly at all four corners and that ride height matches across left/right.
• Post-alignment: verify all alignment readings fall within Tesla Model S Plaid specification and save the printout for the customer.
• Note: While the vehicle is in the air, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and tire wear pattern (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle