Replacement of a brake caliper mounting bracket on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The Plaid uses fixed multi-piston calipers front and rear, so the 'bracket' is the caliper-to-knuckle mounting that secures the entire caliper assembly to the upright.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Caliper mounting bracket (OEM Tesla Model S Plaid, front or rear as applicable) × 1 — Tesla OEM — verify by VIN at parts counter
• Caliper bracket bolts (if single-use per OEM) × 2 — Tesla OEM — replace if specified as single-use
• Copper crush washers for banjo (only if hose was disconnected) × 2 — Match banjo bolt size

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (verify spec by VIN — some 2024 builds spec DOT 4) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion if equipped on this Plaid build) low-voltage battery under the nose cowl panel. Confirm the vehicle is fully powered down before working near any wiring.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Disable Sentry Mode and put the vehicle in Tow/Transport mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if you need the EPB released. Alternatively, release the EPB before powering down.
7. Loosen the wheel lug nuts (21mm) one half-turn while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the Tesla-specified front or rear jack point using approved pucks, support with rated jack stands, and remove the wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and identify bracket configuration
   Confirm whether you are servicing a front or rear bracket. On the 2024 Model S Plaid, both axles use fixed multi-piston calipers bolted directly to a mounting bracket that fastens to the steering knuckle (front) or rear upright. Identify the two large bracket-to-knuckle bolts on the inboard side of the upright.
2. 2

   Relieve brake pad tension (optional, if reusing pads)
   If the pads will be reused, note their orientation. On Plaid fixed calipers, pads are retained by a pad pin and anti-rattle clip accessed from the outboard face of the caliper. Removing pads is not strictly required to remove the bracket, but it lightens the assembly significantly.
3. 3

   Decide hose strategy
   If you can support the caliper with a hanger without stressing the flex hose, leave the hydraulic line connected — this avoids a system bleed. If the bracket geometry forces hose disconnection, prepare a catch pan and new copper crush washers for the banjo fitting.
   ⚠Never let the caliper dangle by the brake hose — the hose will be permanently damaged.
4. 4

   Disconnect brake hose (only if required)
   If hose removal is necessary, place a catch pan under the caliper. Use a line wrench on the banjo bolt to prevent rounding, then loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Discard the two copper crush washers — they are single-use. Cap the hose end to prevent contamination and excessive fluid loss.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt41 Nm (30 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the caliper from the bracket
   On the fixed-caliper design used on Plaid, the caliper bolts directly to the bracket with two large bolts (no slide pins). Loosen and remove these caliper-to-bracket bolts. Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee from a suspension component — do not hang it from the brake hose, ABS line, or pad wear sensor wiring.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Mounting Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the brake rotor
   Pull the rotor off the hub. If seized, thread two M8 bolts into the rotor's threaded jacking holes evenly to push it off the hub face. Do not strike the rotor with a steel hammer near the wheel bearing or aluminum knuckle.
7. 7

   Remove the caliper bracket bolts
   Locate the two large bracket-to-knuckle bolts on the inboard face of the upright. These are typically high-torque fasteners with threadlocker — use a breaker bar and the correct hex/triple-square bit to avoid stripping. Remove both bolts and lift the bracket off the upright.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torqued high with threadlocker. Heat with a heat gun (not torch — aluminum knuckle nearby) if they will not break free.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Clean the mounting surface
   Wire-brush the bracket mating surface on the steering knuckle / rear upright. Remove any old threadlocker from the bolt threads in the knuckle using a thread chaser of the correct size. Clean with brake cleaner and let dry.
9. 9

   Install the new bracket
   Position the new bracket on the knuckle. Apply medium-strength threadlocker (Loctite 243 or equivalent) to the bracket bolt threads. Hand-thread both bolts fully before torquing to avoid cross-threading the aluminum knuckle.
10. 10

    Torque the bracket bolts
    Torque the caliper bracket bolts to the verified front specification. For rear bracket bolts on this vehicle, torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Torque in two stages: 50% first, then full torque, alternating between the two bolts.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall the rotor
    Slide the rotor onto the hub. If you removed any rotor retaining clip/screw, reinstall it. Spin the rotor by hand to confirm it seats flat against the hub face.
12. 12

    Reinstall the caliper
    Position the caliper over the rotor onto the new bracket. Apply threadlocker to the caliper-to-bracket bolts and torque to specification. Confirm the rotor spins freely without dragging.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Mounting Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect the brake hose (if disconnected)
    Install the banjo bolt with NEW copper crush washers — one on each side of the banjo fitting. Torque to specification. Do not reuse old washers; they will leak.
    Torque spec

    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt41 Nm (30 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Bleed the brakes (only if hose was opened)
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir in the frunk with the correct DOT spec for your VIN (verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 — Tesla switched specs across builds). Bleed the affected corner using a vacuum or pressure bleeder until clean fluid free of bubbles emerges. Torque the bleeder screw carefully — overtightening cracks the caliper.
    ⚠A full hydraulic bleed on Tesla iBooster systems may require Tesla service software to cycle the booster. If you cannot achieve a firm pedal with manual bleeding, the system needs a Tesla-Toolbox-assisted bleed.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts by hand in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
3. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
4. Close the frunk and re-enter the vehicle; allow the system to fully boot.

Verification

• With the vehicle still stationary, press the brake pedal firmly multiple times. The pedal must feel firm and consistent — a soft or sinking pedal indicates air in the system.
• Check for any brake fluid leaks at the banjo fitting (if disconnected) and at the bleeder screw.
• Verify no warnings on the touchscreen related to ABS, brake system, or EPB.
• Perform a low-speed test (under 10 mph) in a safe area and apply brakes gently to confirm normal stopping behavior with no pulling, grinding, or noise.
• Bed in any new pads if installed, and re-check torque on the bracket bolts after the first 50 miles.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — if fluid was opened, log this service date.
• Torque values flagged with sequence verification (bracket bolts, caliper slide pins, bleeder screw, lug nuts) should be cross-checked against the current Tesla Service Manual revision for your VIN before final torque.

More procedures for this vehicle