Replace the front brake pads on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. The Plaid uses large performance front calipers with significant brake dust and heat exposure; pad replacement is straightforward but requires care around aluminum suspension components and 21"/22" wheels.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (Tesla Model S Plaid front) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S Plaid front brake pad set or equivalent performance-rated replacement
• Pad hardware/clip kit (if included with pad set) × 1 — OEM hardware kit for Plaid front caliper

Fluids

• DOT 3/DOT 4 Brake Fluid (verify by VIN — top off only if needed) — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium, if equipped) low-voltage battery — located in the frunk under the nose cowl panel, or under the rear seat on 16V-equipped Plaids. Verify location for your specific VIN before opening.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode or otherwise disable Auto Present / Sentry / Summon features per Tesla's documented procedure to prevent vehicle motion during service.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at Tesla-specified jack points using rubber puck adapters; support with rated jack stands.
9. Remove both front wheels and set aside on their faces to protect finish.
10. Visually inspect rotors, dust shields, hub face, and flexible brake hoses before disassembly. Photograph hardware orientation for reference.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect caliper and note hardware orientation
   With the wheel removed, inspect the front caliper, pads, anti-rattle clips, and slide pins (if equipped on this caliper design). Note the orientation of any wear sensor wiring, pad shims, and clips. Photograph for reassembly.
   ⚠If the caliper has an electronic pad wear sensor, route the harness carefully — do not pull on it.
2. 2

   Open brake fluid reservoir cap (frunk)
   Open the frunk and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Briefly remove the cap to allow the system to vent as pistons are compressed, then loosely set the cap back on. Do not let debris enter the reservoir. Note the fluid color — dark/brown fluid indicates the 2-year service interval is overdue.
   ⚠Brake fluid damages paint and aluminum finishes. Wipe spills immediately.
3. 3

   Compress caliper piston(s)
   Using a brake piston compressor or large C-clamp against an old pad, slowly press each piston back into the caliper bore to make room for new, thicker pads. Watch the reservoir level — do not let it overflow. The Plaid front caliper is a multi-piston fixed or floating design depending on production; compress all pistons evenly.
   ⚠Forcing fluid backward through a contaminated ABS/iBooster system can damage internal seals. Compress slowly.
4. 4

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the caliper slide pin bolts (or the main caliper bolts on a fixed-caliper design) and lift the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a wire hanger or bungee — do not let it hang from the flexible brake hose. Inspect the slide pins (if equipped) for smooth movement and intact boots.
   ⚠On a fixed multi-piston caliper, the pads may be retained by a pad pin and clip rather than slide pins — follow the design on your vehicle.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove old pads and hardware
   Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket or caliper body. Remove and discard any single-use anti-rattle clips or shims if a new hardware kit is supplied. Note inboard vs. outboard pad orientation, especially if a wear sensor is integrated into one pad.
6. 6

   Clean caliper bracket and inspect rotor
   Clean the caliper bracket abutment surfaces with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Inspect the rotor for scoring, heat checking, blue heat spots, and minimum thickness stamped on the rotor hat. Plaid rotors see high thermal load — replace if out of spec or pulsation is felt.
   ℹ️If replacing rotors, the caliper bracket must come off — see torque references for bracket bolts.
7. 7

   Lubricate slide pins / contact points
   If equipped with slide pins, wipe pins clean and apply a thin film of silicone brake grease before reinserting into the bracket. Apply a small amount of brake grease to the pad backing plate contact points where the pad meets the caliper piston and bracket abutments — never on the friction surface.
   ⚠Do not use petroleum grease — it will swell rubber boots and seals.
8. 8

   Install new pads and hardware
   Install new anti-rattle clips/shims into the caliper bracket. Seat the new pads into position with the friction material facing the rotor. If one pad has a wear sensor, install it on the inboard side per the pad set's instructions and route the connector to its harness clip.
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper and torque hardware
   Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper slide pin bolts (or caliper bolts on fixed-caliper designs) per the hardware specification. Hand-thread fully, then torque to spec.
   ⚠Do not reuse old threadlocker residue — clean threads before applying new.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Repeat on opposite side
    Repeat steps 1 through 9 on the other front wheel. Always replace front pads as an axle set.
11. 11

    Verify reservoir level and reinstall cap
    Check brake fluid level in the reservoir — top up to the MAX line with the fluid specification listed on the reservoir cap (verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 by VIN). Securely reinstall the reservoir cap.
    ⚠Do not mix DOT 3/4 with DOT 5 (silicone) — system damage will result.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the front wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery and close the frunk / rear seat access.
5. With the vehicle still stationary and ignition on, slowly press the brake pedal multiple times until firm — this seats the pistons against the new pads. Do NOT attempt to drive until the pedal is firm.
6. Recheck brake fluid level after pumping the pedal.

Verification

• Confirm a firm, high brake pedal before driving.
• Inspect each caliper for any signs of fluid leakage at the bleeders, line fittings, and piston seals.
• Visually confirm pads are seated and no hardware was left loose or unused.
• Bed in the new pads per the pad manufacturer's procedure (typically a series of moderate stops from ~60 km/h down to ~10 km/h without coming to a complete stop). Note: on Tesla, set regenerative braking to 'Standard' / lowest regen during bed-in so the friction brakes actually engage — high regen will prevent proper bedding.
• Drive at low speed in a safe area and verify straight-line braking with no pulling, grinding, or pulsation.
• Recheck wheel lug torque after ~50 miles.
• If brake fluid was dark, schedule a full brake fluid flush — Tesla recommends every 2 years regardless of mileage.
• While the wheels are off, this is also an opportune time to rotate tires (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi) and inspect the cabin air filter (every 2 years, or 3 years on HEPA-equipped Model S).

More procedures for this vehicle