Replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The Plaid uses larger high-performance front brakes (Brembo-style fixed calipers on track-package cars; standard floating calipers otherwise) — confirm caliper type before ordering parts.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (Model S Plaid front-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla front pad set for Plaid; verify by VIN — Plaid front pads differ from Long Range
• Front brake rotors × 2 — OEM Tesla Plaid front rotor — confirm diameter/thickness by VIN (Plaid uses larger rotor than non-Plaid)
• Caliper bracket bolts (if single-use) × 4 — Manufacturer-specified — replace if torque-to-yield
• Pad wear sensor / clip hardware (if equipped) × 1 — Generic OEM-spec hardware kit

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (verify by VIN — newer Plaid may specify DOT 4) — 0.25 qt
• Silicone brake caliper grease

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium under the rear seat on applicable 2021+ Plaid units) low-voltage battery. Verify by VIN — frunk under nose cowl is the typical 12V/16V location.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. In the touchscreen (before disconnecting LV battery): disable Sentry Mode, place vehicle in Service Mode if available, and engage Tow/Transport Mode if jacking is needed.
7. Loosen front lug nuts 1/4 turn while wheels are on the ground.
8. Lift front of vehicle at Tesla-designated puck points using puck adapters; support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove front wheels and set aside on the painted (face) side to avoid scratching.
10. Visually inspect for any orange HV cabling, coolant lines, or air-suspension lines near the work area. Note the air-strut routing — do not pry against air suspension components.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the caliper, brake hose routing, pad wear sensor wiring (if equipped), and any anti-rattle clips before disassembly. Confirm caliper style (floating vs. fixed multi-piston). If the caliper is a fixed multi-piston (Plaid track package), STOP — that procedure removes pads via retaining pins without unbolting the caliper and is outside this guide.
2. 2

   Disconnect pad wear sensor (if equipped)
   If the front pads have an electronic wear sensor, trace the harness, release the retaining clip from the strut/knuckle, and unplug the connector. Tuck the harness aside so it is not pinched during caliper removal.
3. 3

   Compress caliper piston
   Open the brake fluid reservoir cap in the frunk to relieve pressure (place a rag around the reservoir to catch overflow). Using a piston compression tool or a large C-clamp against an old pad, slowly retract the caliper piston into the bore. Watch the reservoir level and siphon off excess fluid if necessary to prevent overflow.
   ⚠Brake fluid damages paint and aluminum body panels. Wipe spills immediately with water.
4. 4

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Hold the slide pin with a wrench and remove the two caliper slide pin bolts. Lift the caliper body off the bracket. Suspend it from the coil spring or sub-frame with a bungee cord — do NOT let it hang by the brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove old pads and inspect hardware
   Slide the inner and outer pads out of the bracket. Inspect the abutment clips/anti-rattle shims — replace if corroded or deformed. Inspect the slide pin boots for tears; replace boots and re-grease pins with silicone brake grease if reused.
6. 6

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts securing the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are torque-critical and typically use threadlocker — expect high breakaway force. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the rotor
   If a retaining screw is present, remove it. Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If seized, apply penetrating oil to the hub-to-rotor interface and tap with a dead-blow mallet — never use a steel hammer on hub/knuckle aluminum components. If the rotor has threaded jacking holes, use them with appropriate bolts to push it free.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle/hub — striking with a steel hammer can crack components. Use dead-blow only.
8. 8

   Clean hub face
   Wire-brush the hub mounting face until shiny. Any rust or debris between the hub and new rotor will cause runout and pedal pulsation. Apply a very thin film of anti-seize ONLY to the hub center (never on the friction surface or lug threads).
9. 9

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the protective coating from the friction surfaces. Place rotor onto hub; install retaining screw if applicable. Spin the rotor and verify it sits flush against the hub.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Apply medium-strength (blue) threadlocker to caliper bracket bolt threads. Install bracket and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install new pads
    Install new abutment clips if supplied. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to pad ear contact points and the back of the pad backing plate (never on friction surface). Slide new pads into the bracket. If pads include a wear sensor, install on the inner pad with the sensor lead routed correctly.
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper
    Verify slide pins move freely in their bores; re-grease with silicone brake grease and install fresh boots if torn. Set caliper body over the new pads. Apply threadlocker if specified by manufacturer, install slide pin bolts, and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect wear sensor and repeat on opposite side
    Reconnect the pad wear sensor connector and secure the harness in its original clip locations. Repeat steps 1–12 on the opposite front wheel.

Reassembly

1. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with the correct DOT specification (verify by VIN — DOT 3 or DOT 4). Reinstall reservoir cap.
2. Reinstall front wheels. Snug lug nuts by hand in a star pattern.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
5. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery.
6. Close the frunk and verify the touchscreen powers up normally.
7. Before driving: with the vehicle off and key present, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until firm — this seats the pads against the new rotors. Pedal will be soft for the first 2–4 strokes.

Verification

• Confirm a firm, high brake pedal before moving the vehicle. If pedal is spongy, bleed the system per service manual.
• Re-check brake fluid level after pad seating — top off if low.
• Bed-in procedure: in a safe area, perform 8–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph without coming to a complete stop, then drive a few minutes to cool. Avoid aggressive stops for the first 200 miles.
• On test drive, monitor touchscreen for ABS, traction control, or brake warning alerts — Plaid will throw a fault if a wheel speed sensor or pad wear sensor was disturbed.
• Verify no pulling, pulsation, or grinding. Pulsation typically indicates rotor not seated flush against hub.
• Brake fluid service reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If fluid is older than 2 years, schedule a flush.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 miles of driving.

More procedures for this vehicle