Rebuild the rear brake calipers on a 2024 Model S Plaid by disassembling, cleaning, replacing seals/boots/pistons as needed, and reinstalling. Note that the Plaid uses high-performance rear calipers — inspect for scoring before committing to a rebuild vs. replacement.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper rebuild kit (seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified rebuild kit for Model S Plaid rear caliper — verify by VIN
• Caliper pistons (if scored or corroded) × 4 — OEM-spec replacement pistons — inspect originals first
• Caliper slide pin boots × 2 — Included in rebuild kit on most applications
• Silicone brake grease (caliper-rated) × 1 — Generic high-temp silicone brake lubricant
• Thread locker (medium strength, blue) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Copper or aluminum crush washers for banjo fittings (if equipped) × 4 — Manufacturer-specified sealing washers

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (verify by VIN — newer Model S may specify DOT 4) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery: on 2024 Model S Plaid, this is the 16V lithium auxiliary battery. Access location varies by build — typically under the rear seat or in the frunk area; verify per the in-vehicle Service Mode shutdown procedure before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in 'Jack Mode' / 'Transport Mode' via the touchscreen before lifting, to prevent air suspension self-leveling (Plaid uses adaptive air suspension).
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Lift the rear of the vehicle at Tesla-designated lift points using approved pucks, support on jack stands, and remove rear wheels.
9. Have a catch pan and plenty of rags ready — brake fluid will drip when caliper is opened.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect caliper before disassembly
   Visually inspect both rear calipers for cracks, deep corrosion in piston bores, or torn dust boots beyond what a rebuild kit can address. If bores are scored or pitted, abort the rebuild and replace the caliper assembly. Photograph the brake hose routing and clip positions for reassembly reference.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line
   Place a catch pan under the caliper. Using a flare-nut (line) wrench, loosen the brake line fitting at the caliper. If the caliper uses a banjo bolt, note the orientation and discard the crush washers (replace on reassembly). Cap or plug the line immediately to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.
   ⚠Use a line wrench only — an open-end wrench will round the soft fitting.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper guide/slide pin bolts (or caliper-to-bracket bolts depending on caliper design) and lift the caliper off the rotor. Remove the brake pads and note their orientation (inboard vs outboard, wear sensor side).
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket (if rebuilding bracket hardware)
   If the rebuild includes bracket cleaning or anti-rattle clip replacement, remove the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts. These are very tight and use thread locker — heat may be required. Do NOT apply heat near suspension bushings or wiring harnesses.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle on Model S — avoid prying against the knuckle face.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Extract pistons
   Secure caliper in a soft-jaw vise. Place a wood block in the pad cavity to protect pistons. Use compressed air directed into the brake hose port (low pressure, gradually increased) to walk the pistons out. Keep fingers clear — pistons can eject with significant force. For multi-piston calipers, remove pistons one at a time, blocking the others with shims so they extract evenly.
   ⚠️Never put fingers between the piston and caliper body — ejection can amputate.
6. 6

   Remove and discard old seals
   Using a non-metallic pick, remove the dust boot and the square-cut piston seal from the caliper bore groove. Take care not to scratch the bore — any score in the bore means the caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt.
7. 7

   Clean and inspect
   Wash caliper body, bores, and pistons with brake parts cleaner only (never petroleum solvents, which destroy rubber seals). Inspect bores for pitting and pistons for plating wear or corrosion. Replace any piston with surface damage. Blow out internal passages and the bleeder port with compressed air.
8. 8

   Install new seals and pistons
   Lubricate the new square-cut piston seal with clean brake fluid (or assembly lube provided in the kit) and seat it in the bore groove. Install the dust boot per kit instructions. Coat the piston with brake fluid and press it straight into the bore by hand — if it cocks, back out and re-start. Seat the dust boot lip into the piston groove.
   ⚠Do not use silicone grease on the piston seal — only DOT-compatible brake fluid or kit-supplied lube.
9. 9

   Service slide pins (floating calipers) or bridge bolts (fixed calipers)
   Clean slide pins, inspect boots, apply silicone brake grease to pins, and reinstall with new boots if included. For fixed calipers (likely on Plaid rear), inspect bridge bolts and reuse only if undamaged.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    If removed, clean threads and apply blue thread locker to bracket bolts. Torque to specification. These are critical fasteners — verify with a calibrated torque wrench.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall pads and caliper
    Install brake pads with anti-rattle clips/shims as originally arranged. Slide caliper over rotor. Apply blue thread locker to caliper bolts and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect brake line
    Reconnect the brake line fitting (with new crush washers if banjo-type). Use a line wrench and torque carefully — overtightening will deform the fitting and cause leaks.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Bleed the brake system
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir with the correct DOT spec fluid (verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 by VIN — 2024 Model S typically specifies DOT 4; do not mix). Bleed the rebuilt caliper(s) using a pressure or two-person method until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Torque the bleeder screw — do not overtighten. Monitor reservoir level continuously to prevent introducing air. Note: full ABS/iBooster bleed on Model S may require Tesla service tooling; if pedal remains soft after manual bleed, do not drive — escalate.
    ⚠Verify exact brake fluid spec by VIN. Mixing DOT 3/4 with DOT 5 (silicone) will destroy the system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall rear wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
2. Lower vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the low-voltage (16V) battery and reinstall any covers removed for access.
5. Exit Jack Mode / Transport Mode via the touchscreen and allow air suspension to self-level.
6. Top off brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with the correct DOT-spec fluid.

Verification

• With the vehicle still stationary, pump the brake pedal until firm. A soft or sinking pedal indicates remaining air or a leak — do not drive.
• Inspect all fittings (banjo/line, bleeder) for fluid weeping after pedal pressure is applied.
• Check the touchscreen for any brake-related alerts (e.g., 'Brake system needs service', 'ABS fault'). The Plaid's iBooster may log a fault if air entered the unit.
• At very low speed in an empty area, perform several light stops to confirm pedal feel and even braking, then a moderate stop to confirm no pull.
• Bed in the new pad/bore mating: 8–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to ~5 mph, followed by a cool-down drive. Because regenerative braking does most of the deceleration on Plaid, manually using friction brakes during bed-in is essential.
• After first drive, recheck wheel lug torque and inspect caliper for fluid seepage.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — record this service date. If fluid was fully flushed during this job, reset your interval accordingly.

More procedures for this vehicle