Control Arm Bushing - Front Lower

Replace the front lower control arm bushings on a 2024 Model S Plaid. On this aluminum-intensive chassis with air suspension, the front lower control arm assembly is typically replaced as a unit because the bushings are not serviced separately by Tesla.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (or OEM bushing kit if separately serviceable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front lower control arm — verify by VIN
• Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — single use
• Front alignment shims/hardware as required × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On 2024 Plaid this is typically the 16V lithium unit located under the rear seat — refer to architecture notes and the Tesla service manual to confirm location for your specific build, then remove the cover and disconnect the negative terminal.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V/16V, enter Service Mode and enable Jack Mode (Suspension > Jack) to prevent the air suspension from auto-leveling and to vent the air system at the affected corner.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
9. Verify you have the correct replacement control arm/bushing for the Plaid trim — front suspension geometry differs from non-Plaid Model S.

Procedure

1. 1

   Lift and support the vehicle
   Using only Tesla-designated front jack points (with proper puck adapters), raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands rated for EV weight. Do not place stands on the HV battery case or pinch welds outside the marked lift points. Remove the front wheel.
   ⚠️Improper lifting can damage the HV battery enclosure beneath the floor.
2. 2

   Verify air suspension is depressurized at the affected corner
   Confirm Jack Mode is active and the corner has settled. If you must depressurize the air strut, follow the manufacturer-specified depressurization procedure — do not crack any air line under pressure.
3. 3

   Remove the front wheel liner fasteners as needed
   Remove the lower portion of the wheel liner / underbody aero panel fasteners to gain access to the lower control arm pivot bolts and ball joint. Note routing of any wiring (ride-height sensor, brake wear sensor) and unclip from the control arm if applicable.
4. 4

   Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut/lower arm
   Hold the end-link shaft with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link out of the way. Inspect bushings while accessible.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint. Using a ball joint separator (not a pickle fork if you intend to reuse the joint), break the taper free. Support the knuckle so it does not hang on the brake hose, ABS line, or halfshaft. Discard the cotter pin.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle/hub assembly hang from the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Support the control arm and remove pivot bolts
   Support the lower control arm with a jack. Mark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts before removal so the alignment can be roughly preserved. Remove the inboard pivot bolts securing the front lower control arm to the front subframe / cradle.
7. 7

   Remove the control arm
   Maneuver the control arm out of the subframe pocket and clear of the vehicle. The arm is aluminum and relatively light — handle carefully to avoid gouging mating surfaces.
8. 8

   Service the bushings
   If the bushings are separately serviceable per the Tesla Service Manual, press the old bushings out and the new ones in using a hydraulic press and the manufacturer-specified bushing tool. If Tesla supplies the arm only as a complete assembly with integrated bushings (typical for Model S Plaid), discard the old arm and prepare the new assembly. Do not heat aluminum arms with a torch.
   ⚠Heating an aluminum control arm permanently weakens it. Use a press only.
9. 9

   Install the control arm into the subframe
   Position the new/serviced arm into the subframe pocket. Hand-thread the pivot bolts with new hardware where specified. Do NOT final-torque yet — the bushings must be clamped at ride height.
10. 10

    Reconnect the lower ball joint to the knuckle
    Seat the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to spec, then advance the nut (do not back off) to align with a new cotter pin. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect the sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall liners and route harnesses
    Reinstall the wheel liner / underbody panel and reclip any ride height sensor, ABS, or brake wear harness to the arm. Verify the ride height sensor link is correctly attached — incorrect installation will cause the air suspension to mis-level.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (or use a drive-on alignment rack / loaded-to-ride-height fixture).
3. With the suspension loaded at ride height, final-torque the control arm pivot bolts. Torque to OEM specification per the Control Arm Bolts spec.
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery (negative terminal last installed).
6. Reinstall any battery cover or trim removed for access.
7. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to re-level.
8. Cycle the vehicle through Standard / Low / High ride heights to confirm no air leaks and proper operation.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension or ABS warnings on the instrument cluster after a key cycle.
• Confirm air suspension auto-levels evenly at all four corners; no compressor hunting.
• Inspect the new ball joint cotter pin is fully seated and bent.
• Road test at low speed first: listen for clunks, verify steering centers, no pulling.
• Take the vehicle for a four-wheel alignment — required after any control arm service. Verify front camber and toe are within Tesla specification for the Plaid trim.
• Re-check control arm pivot bolt torque and ball joint torque after the first 100 miles if the vehicle has been driven aggressively.
• While the vehicle is in the air, this is also a good opportunity to inspect tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every ~6,250 mi on Plaid due to instant torque and curb weight) and check brake fluid age — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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