suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Front Upper
for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
10
Replace the front upper control arm bushing on a 2024 Model S Plaid. On this chassis the upper control arm bushings are typically not serviced individually — Tesla supplies the upper control arm as a complete assembly, so this procedure removes and replaces the upper arm.
Warnings
⚠️Model S Plaid is HV. Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. This job stays in the suspension/subframe area — if you see orange routing in your work area, STOP.
⚠️Ball joint nut and control arm pivot bolts are CRITICAL torque items. Under-torque can cause sudden suspension separation at speed.
⚠Aluminum body and aluminum suspension components — never strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift only where impact is required.
⚠Model S Plaid is equipped with adaptive air suspension. The vehicle must be placed in Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting to prevent the system from attempting to re-level.
⚠Lift only at Tesla-approved jack pad locations using rubber pucks. Lifting elsewhere will deform the aluminum rocker.
ℹ️A four-wheel alignment is required after any control arm service. Do not skip — Tesla camber/toe tolerances are tight and tire wear is rapid if out of spec.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10–22mm)Essential
Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod pullerEssential
Floor jack with rubber pad (for aluminum pinch points)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weight (Model S Plaid ~4,800 lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucksEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shaft)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Pry bar
Drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly stands (for final torque under load)
Parts
- Front upper control arm assembly (or bushing kit if serviced separately) × 1 — Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) front upper control arm — verify by VIN
- Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
- Control arm pivot bolts (if single-use / TTY) × 2 — Verify reuse policy per Tesla Service Manual
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion, if equipped) low-voltage battery under the nose cowl panel. Some 2021+ Plaid units have the 16V under the rear seat — verify by VIN.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- On the touchscreen (before disconnecting 12V), enable Jack Mode: Controls → Service → Jack Mode. This disables the air suspension self-leveling.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle at the Tesla-approved jack points using rubber pucks, support on jack stands rated for the curb weight.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Inspect the work area for any orange cabling or HV components before proceeding — none should be present in the front upper suspension area, but verify.
Procedure
- 1Support the lower control arm / knucklePlace a floor jack with a rubber pad under the lower control arm or knuckle to support the assembly's weight. This prevents the strut and lower arm from dropping when the upper arm is freed and protects the air strut/CV joint.⚠Do not place the jack under the air strut housing or against any sensor wiring.
- 2Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)If access to the upper arm requires it, remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut/knuckle. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent it from spinning.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the ball joint nut. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is required on reassembly.
- 4Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckleUse a ball joint separator or tie-rod puller to break the taper between the upper ball joint stud and the steering knuckle. Avoid hammering on the aluminum knuckle. Once free, swing the knuckle outward carefully — do not stress the CV axle or brake hose.⚠Aluminum knuckle — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use the separator tool only.
- 5Mark and remove the upper control arm pivot boltsMark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts (if equipped) at the chassis-side pivot to preserve a baseline alignment. Support the arm, then remove the inner pivot bolt(s) securing the upper control arm to the body/shock tower bracket. Remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.
- 6Inspect mounting hardware and bushing seatsInspect the chassis-side bracket bores, bolt threads, and ball joint stud taper for damage, corrosion, or elongation. Replace any damaged hardware with manufacturer-specified equivalents. Clean mating surfaces.
- 7Press in the new bushing OR install the new upper armIf Tesla supplies the bushing separately for this VIN, press the old bushing out and the new one in using a bushing press and the manufacturer-specified bushing driver — do not use heat or impact on the aluminum arm. If Tesla supplies the upper arm only as an assembly (most common on the 2021+ refresh Model S), simply prepare the new arm assembly for installation.⚠Do not apply flame or excessive heat to aluminum control arms — heat will permanently weaken the alloy.
- 8Install the upper control arm to the chassisPosition the upper control arm in the chassis-side bracket and install the pivot bolt(s) finger-tight. If cam bolts are present, align the marks made earlier. Do NOT final-torque yet — pivot bushings must be torqued at ride height to avoid pre-loading the rubber.ℹ️Final torque on the pivot bolts is done with vehicle weight on the wheels — see reassembly.
- 9Reconnect the upper ball joint to the knuckleGuide the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin; if the slots don't align, tighten further (never back off) until they do.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect the sway bar end linkIf disconnected, reattach the sway bar end link. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the wheels (or use drive-on ramps / alignment stands so suspension is loaded at ride height).
- With the suspension at ride height, final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification — see Control Arm Bolts.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery in the frunk (or under the rear seat for 16V Li-ion units).
- Close the frunk, re-enter the vehicle, and exit Jack Mode (the air suspension will re-level automatically once the vehicle is woken).
Verification
- Confirm the air suspension self-levels to the correct ride height with no fault messages on the touchscreen.
- Check for any chassis warnings on the instrument display (suspension fault, ABS, stability control).
- With the wheel off the ground, grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and check for any play at the upper ball joint — there should be none.
- Visually verify the new cotter pin is fully seated through the ball joint nut.
- Take the vehicle for a low-speed test drive and listen for clunks over bumps; check that the steering wheel is centered.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately. The Model S Plaid is highly sensitive to alignment; driving long distances out of spec will scrub the tires (especially on 21" or 22" wheels).
- While the vehicle is in the air, this is a good opportunity to inspect items on Tesla's real-world service intervals: brake fluid (replace every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years, or 3 for HEPA), and drive unit fluid (initial 12,500 mi, then 25,000–50,000 mi).