Replace the rear control arm bushing(s) on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. This Plaid uses a multi-link rear suspension with air struts; bushing replacement typically requires control arm removal and a hydraulic press, or can be done with the arm in place using a specialized bushing tool depending on which arm is affected.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for Model S Plaid) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear control arm bushing — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint nut (if disturbed) × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Replacement control arm fasteners (if single-use per OEM) × 1 — OEM-spec — verify with Tesla service info

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery: on this 2024 Plaid this is typically the 16V lithium unit located under the rear seat (verify by VIN — some Plaid units retain the frunk-mounted 12V). Follow Tesla's documented LV disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting, enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen: Controls → Service → Jack Mode. This disables air suspension self-leveling.
7. Chock the front wheels. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Identify which rear control arm bushing is being replaced (upper, lower fore/aft link, toe link, or trailing arm) and confirm replacement parts are correct for that specific arm.

Procedure

1. 1

   Lift vehicle and remove rear wheel
   Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated rear lift points using approved pucks. Support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight. Remove the rear wheel.
   ⚠️Never place a jack on the HV battery case. Use only Tesla-designated lift pad locations.
2. 2

   Inspect and photograph suspension geometry
   Before disturbing anything, photograph the position of all eccentric alignment cams, toe link adjusters, and bolt orientations. Mark eccentric positions with paint pen so the suspension can be reassembled close to its original alignment.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar link (if access requires)
   If the bushing being serviced requires sway bar link removal for clearance, disconnect the rear sway bar end link. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen/hex key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
   ⚠If the link nut spins freely, the internal ball stud is likely worn — replace the link rather than fighting it.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the wheel hub assembly
   Place a transmission jack or floor jack under the rear knuckle/hub assembly to support its weight. This prevents the half-shaft, brake line, and parking brake cable from being stressed once the control arm is unbolted.
5. 5

   Disconnect ball joint (if servicing an arm with a ball joint end)
   If the affected control arm terminates in a ball joint at the knuckle, remove the cotter pin and ball joint nut. Separate the joint using an appropriate separator tool. Avoid pickle forks if the boot is to be reused.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle to free the joint. Use a press-style separator.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove control arm inner and outer bolts
   Remove the inboard (subframe) and outboard (knuckle) fasteners securing the control arm. Note the exact orientation of each bolt — many rear suspension bolts on Model S are direction-specific. Slowly extract eccentric bolts to preserve alignment cam position.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the control arm from the vehicle
   Carefully maneuver the control arm out of the subframe and knuckle pockets. The arm may be aluminum forged or stamped — do not pry against the HV battery case or aluminum body structure.
   ⚠Aluminum suspension components will gall and gouge easily. Protect mating surfaces.
8. 8

   Press out old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press with appropriately sized receivers and drivers, press the old bushing out of the control arm eye. If using an in-vehicle bushing tool, follow the tool manufacturer's setup. Inspect the bushing bore for cracks, corrosion, or ovality — replace the entire arm if the bore is damaged.
   ⚠Do not heat aluminum control arms with a torch to free a stuck bushing — this will anneal the arm and compromise its strength.
9. 9

   Press in new bushing
   Lubricate the bore lightly with the lubricant specified by the bushing manufacturer (typically water-based or silicone — never petroleum on rubber bushings). Press the new bushing in squarely until it is fully seated. Verify orientation if the bushing is clocked (some Tesla bushings have voids that must be aligned to the load axis).
10. 10

    Reinstall control arm
    Place the arm into the subframe and knuckle pockets. Hand-thread all fasteners. Do NOT final-torque inner pivot bolts yet — they must be torqued at ride height to avoid pre-loading the new bushing.
11. 11

    Reconnect ball joint and sway bar link
    Reattach the ball joint with a NEW cotter pin and torque the ball joint nut to specification. Reattach the sway bar end link.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the full weight is on the wheels before final torquing of the control arm pivot fasteners.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With vehicle weight on the wheels and suspension at normal ride height, torque the control arm inner pivot bolts to specification. This sets the bushing's neutral position.
    ⚠Skipping ride-height torquing will cause the new bushing to fail within months.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Torque wheel lug nuts
    Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the low-voltage battery and reinstall any covers removed for access.
2. Exit Jack Mode by entering the vehicle and following the on-screen prompt. The air suspension will re-pressurize and self-level — listen for normal compressor operation and confirm no leak hisses.
3. Cycle the vehicle through Standard / Low / High ride height settings and verify all four corners reach commanded height.
4. Test drive at low speed in a safe area to confirm no clunks, pulling, or unusual handling before highway use.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension fault, ABS, or stability control alerts on the touchscreen after start-up.
• Verify air suspension self-levels correctly and no leveling sensor faults are logged.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — rear suspension geometry on Model S Plaid is sensitive and any disturbed eccentrics will affect tire wear and Autopilot calibration.
• After alignment, perform Tesla's Autopilot/cameras self-calibration drive if alignment shop reports significant rear thrust angle changes.
• Re-inspect the new bushing and all fasteners after the first 100 miles for any movement, walking, or witness marks.
• While the rear is apart, this is a good opportunity to remember other Tesla intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2–3 years (HEPA), drive unit gear oil per current Tesla recommendation (initial ~12,500 mi then 25,000–50,000 mi), and tire rotation every 6,250 mi — Plaid torque eats rear tires quickly.

More procedures for this vehicle