Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. This trim uses adaptive air suspension, which requires placing the vehicle in Jack Mode before lifting and re-leveling after service.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (Model S Plaid front, side-specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front LCA for 2024 Model S Plaid — verify by VIN
• Ball Joint Cotter Pin × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin — single use
• Control Arm Pivot Bolts (if specified as single-use) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if listed as TTY/single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on Plaid, located under the rear seat — verify your specific build) low-voltage battery. On front-trunk 12V configurations, remove the frunk nose cowl panel to access. Confirm battery type by VIN before opening.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: with the vehicle still powered, enter Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling. Then power down and disconnect the low-voltage battery as above.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts a half-turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points using puck adapters; support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's curb weight.
10. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
11. Inspect the new control arm against the old one to confirm correct side and bushing orientation before installation.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front aero/splash shielding
   Using plastic trim tools and the appropriate Torx/clip drivers, remove the front lower aero panel and any inner fender liner sections required to access the lower control arm pivot bolts and ball joint. Set hardware aside, organized by location.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link from the lower control arm
   Locate the sway bar link where it attaches to the lower control arm (or strut, depending on configuration — verify on this vehicle). Hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Remove the link nut and swing the link clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut. Discard the cotter pin. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on flush with the stud to protect the threads. Use a ball joint separator to break the taper free from the knuckle. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the knuckle off the ball joint stud. Support the knuckle/strut assembly with a bungee or stand — do NOT let it hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
   ⚠Do not damage the ball joint boot if reusing — though replacement of the entire control arm makes this moot, mind the boot on the upper ball joint which is staying.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Mark and remove the inboard pivot bolts
   Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers if equipped — mark with paint pen so initial alignment can be approximated. Support the control arm with a jack or by hand, then remove both inboard pivot bolts securing the control arm to the front subframe.
   ℹ️Bolts may be under bushing preload. Loosen evenly and be prepared for the arm to drop slightly.
5. 5

   Remove the lower control arm
   Maneuver the control arm down and out of the subframe. Compare side-by-side with the new arm to confirm correct length, bushing orientation, and ball joint position.
6. 6

   Install the new lower control arm at the subframe
   Position the new control arm into the subframe pivot pockets. Install the pivot bolts with any cam/eccentric washers oriented as marked. Thread bolts in by hand, then snug — but DO NOT final torque yet. Final torque must be applied with the suspension loaded.
   ⚠Torquing bushing pivot bolts with the suspension hanging will preload the bushings in the wrong position and cause premature failure.
7. 7

   Reconnect the ball joint to the steering knuckle
   Lift the knuckle onto the ball joint stud. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (do not back off) only as needed to align the castle nut slot with the stud's cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to lock.
   ⚠️Never back off a castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further within spec. A loose ball joint can cause loss of steering control.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect the sway bar end link
   Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key, and torque the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
   Mount the front wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle onto drive-on ramps or alignment stands so the suspension is loaded at approximately ride height. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final-torque the control arm pivot bolts under load
    With the vehicle weight on the wheels (on ramps or drive-on stands), reach the inboard pivot bolts and final-torque to specification. This sets the bushings at neutral preload.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall aero/splash shielding
    Reinstall the front lower aero panel and any inner fender liner sections removed for access. Torque any small fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for un-listed values.
    Torque spec

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm a new cotter pin is installed at the lower ball joint and legs are bent over.
2. Double-check that pivot bolts received final torque under load, not while hanging.
3. Reconnect the low-voltage battery (close frunk panel or rear seat access as applicable).
4. Power up the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode (it may auto-exit once motion is detected, but verify via Controls > Service).
5. Allow the air suspension to self-level. Cycle ride heights (Low / Standard / High) if accessible to confirm normal operation.
6. Drive at low speed in a safe area to confirm no clunks, no pulling, and no warning messages.
7. Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately — required after any control arm service.

Verification

• No suspension, steering, or air suspension fault messages on the touchscreen after a full power cycle.
• Air suspension levels correctly at all height settings; no continuous compressor running (which would indicate a leak unrelated to this job, but worth confirming).
• Steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if not, alignment is mandatory before further use.
• No clunks or knocks over bumps — indicates bushings were torqued under load and ball joint is properly seated.
• Visually re-inspect the cotter pin and all torqued fasteners after a short test drive.
• Perform 4-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable rack with current spec sheet for 2024 Model S Plaid.
• Note: While under the vehicle, check brake fluid service interval (Tesla recommends every 2 years) and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi) — convenient time to address if due.

More procedures for this vehicle