Replacement of a rear lower control arm on a 2024 Model S Plaid (Tri Motor AWD). This trim uses adaptive air suspension, so the air system must be disabled in the touchscreen Service Mode before lifting to prevent compressor damage and ride-height fault codes.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear lower control arm assembly (LH or RH as required) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model S Plaid rear lower control arm — verify by VIN
• Ball joint cotter pin (if castle-nut style) × 1 — OEM cotter pin — single-use
• Control arm pivot bolt(s) and nut(s) — replace if specified as single-use × 1 — OEM-spec fasteners — refer to Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model S Plaid this is typically the 16V lithium unit located under the rear seat — verify location before opening the frunk panel. Follow the manufacturer-specified disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. On the touchscreen (before LV disconnect), enable Jack Mode: Controls > Service > Jack Mode. This disables the air suspension self-leveling.
7. Confirm which side (LH/RH) is being serviced and order the correct hand of control arm.
8. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the wheel is still on the ground.
9. Raise the vehicle at the OEM rear jack points using approved Tesla pucks; support on jack stands rated for vehicle weight (Plaid curb weight ~4,800 lb).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear wheel
   With the vehicle safely supported, remove the lug nuts and pull the rear wheel. Set the wheel face-down to protect the finish. Inspect the wheel speed sensor wiring and brake hose routing before proceeding.
2. 2

   Document suspension geometry
   Before disturbing anything, photograph the control arm orientation, any alignment cam markings, and the routing of the wheel speed sensor harness and any ride-height sensor link. The rear lower control arm on Model S typically carries a ride-height/level sensor link on one side — note its position.
   ⚠Damaging the ride-height sensor or its link will trigger air suspension faults and require recalibration.
3. 3

   Disconnect ride-height sensor link (if attached to this arm)
   If the air suspension ride-height sensor link mounts to the lower control arm being replaced, carefully unclip or unbolt it and set it aside without bending the sensor arm. Support it so it does not hang by its wiring.
4. 4

   Disconnect sway bar end link from the control arm (if applicable)
   If the sway bar end link attaches at the lower control arm on this side, hold the stud with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link clear. If the end link instead attaches to the knuckle or upper arm, skip this step.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Support the knuckle / unload the arm
   Place a jack under the rear knuckle or hub assembly to support it as the arm is removed. This prevents the half-shaft, brake hose, and parking brake cable from taking the weight of the assembly when fasteners are released.
   ⚠Do NOT let the knuckle hang — it can damage the half-shaft inner CV joint and stretch the brake hose.
6. 6

   Separate the outboard ball joint / knuckle attachment
   Remove the cotter pin (if present) and back off the ball joint nut. Use a proper ball joint separator to break the taper — do not use a pickle fork on a reusable joint as it will tear the boot. If this control arm uses a through-bolt to the knuckle rather than a tapered ball stud, remove the pinch bolt and slide the joint free.
   ⚠Never hammer on the aluminum knuckle. Use the separator tool only.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove inboard pivot bolt(s)
   Mark the position of any eccentric/cam alignment bolts with a paint pen so the new arm can be installed close to the original alignment setting. Remove the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) securing the arm to the rear subframe. Use a breaker bar — these are torqued tight and may be corroded if the vehicle has seen winter use.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove the control arm
   Maneuver the arm out of the subframe and away from the knuckle. Compare the old and new arms side-by-side: bushing orientation, ball stud taper, sensor mounting tabs, and overall length must match exactly. Confirm hand (LH vs RH).
   ⚠If the new arm does not match, STOP. Installing the wrong-hand arm will alter rear toe/camber and cause tire wear or handling instability.
9. 9

   Install new control arm — inboard first
   Position the new arm into the subframe pivot. Install the pivot bolt(s) and nut(s) hand-tight only. Align any cam bolts to the marks made during removal. DO NOT final-torque yet — this must occur with vehicle weight on the wheel.
10. 10

    Connect outboard ball joint to knuckle
    Insert the ball stud into the knuckle. Install a NEW castle nut and tighten to specification, then continue tightening only as needed to align the slot with the cotter pin hole — never back off. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs properly.
    ⚠️A loose ball joint nut can cause complete suspension separation at speed. Always use a new cotter pin and verify torque.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect sway bar end link and ride-height sensor
    Reattach the sway bar end link (hold the shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut). Reconnect the air suspension ride-height sensor link in its original orientation; a misadjusted link will cause the vehicle to sit at the wrong ride height.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheel. Snug lug nuts by hand, then star-pattern torque to spec once the vehicle is on the ground.
2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension carries full weight at normal ride height. For air suspension vehicles, this means exiting Jack Mode after LV battery is reconnected so the system can self-level.
3. With the wheel on the ground at ride height, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification. This is critical — bushings preloaded in the air will fail prematurely.
4. Final-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the low-voltage battery following the manufacturer-specified sequence.
6. Power the vehicle on. Exit Jack Mode via Controls > Service. Allow the air suspension to self-level and verify no suspension warning messages appear on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension, ABS, or stability control warnings on the instrument cluster / center screen after a key cycle and short drive.
• Verify the vehicle sits level front-to-rear and side-to-side. On Plaid air suspension, switch through Low / Standard / High ride heights and confirm all positions function.
• Listen for clunks or rattles during a low-speed drive over bumps — a missed torque or misaligned bushing will reveal itself immediately.
• Inspect the new ball joint boot and bushings for any signs of pinching or damage after the first drive.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment. Tesla rear suspension is sensitive to even small geometry changes — running unaligned will scrub the inside edge of the rear tire within a few hundred miles.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, take the opportunity to inspect the opposite-side rear control arm and bushings — they typically wear at a similar rate.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 miles on heavy/high-torque vehicles like Plaid; rear suspension work is a good time to rotate if due.

More procedures for this vehicle