2024 TESLA MODEL S

Plaid Tri Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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suspension

Strut Bearing

for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.5 h
Tools
9
Steps
12

Replace the front strut upper bearing (strut mount bearing) on a 2024 Model S Plaid. This requires removing the air strut assembly from the vehicle and disassembling it on a bench using a coil/air spring-safe strut compressor — note that Plaid uses adaptive air suspension, so the air line and electrical connector at the top of the strut must be handled carefully.

Warnings

⚠️This vehicle uses adaptive air suspension. Before disconnecting any air line or strut, the suspension must be placed in Jack Mode via the touchscreen and the system depressurized at the strut. Compressed air lines under load can cause injury.
⚠️Do NOT touch or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. The HV pack runs along the floor of the vehicle — be careful where jack stands are placed; use only Tesla-designated lift points.
⚠️A compressed coil/air spring assembly stores enormous energy. Use only a strut compressor rated for this assembly and never place hands or face in line with the spring.
Aluminum body and aluminum suspension components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead blow or brass drift. Galled/seized fasteners must be heated carefully, not pried against body panels.
Plaid front struts contain a ride-height sensor and air line. Cap the air fitting immediately on disconnect to keep contamination out of the air system.
ℹ️After any front suspension disassembly, a four-wheel alignment is required. Tesla camber/caster is sensitive — driver-assist features may behave incorrectly until aligned.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weight (>5000 lb)Essential
Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (incl. deep sockets)Essential
Metric hex/Allen key set (for damper shaft hold)Essential
External spring/strut compressor rated for the assembly (or air-strut bench fixture)Essential
Pry bar set
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod puller
Trim removal tools (for cowl/frunk panel access to 12V)Essential
Dead blow mallet (no steel hammer — aluminum body)Essential

Parts

  • Front strut upper bearing / mount bearing × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model S Plaid front strut bearing — verify by VIN
  • Strut top nut (one-time-use if specified) × 1 — OEM specification
  • Cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on applicable Plaid builds — check under rear seat if not in frunk) low-voltage battery negative terminal. Refer to architecture notes.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Before lifting: on the touchscreen go to Service > Suspension and select Jack Mode to disable auto-leveling and lower system pressure.
  7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
  8. Lift at the manufacturer-specified front lift points only (puck adapters required to avoid crushing the rocker / battery edge). Support on rated jack stands.
  9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
  10. Inspect the strut, ball joint, sway bar link, and tie rod for any other wear before committing — bearing replacement is a good time to address adjacent components.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Depressurize and disconnect the air strut
    With Jack Mode active, locate the air line fitting and the ride-height/level sensor connector at the top of the strut. Carefully release residual air pressure per the manufacturer-specified procedure, then disconnect the air line and cap both the line and the strut fitting to prevent contamination. Unclip the electrical connector for the level sensor (if routed on this strut).
    ⚠️Air line may still hold residual pressure even in Jack Mode. Bleed slowly.
  2. 2
    Disconnect sway bar end link
    Remove the sway bar end link from the strut or control arm bracket. Hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning. Inspect the link bushings/joints — replace if play is felt.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Separate the lower ball joint (if required for strut removal)
    Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint. Use a proper ball joint separator — do NOT hammer the knuckle. On Plaid, the aluminum knuckle is easily damaged. Discard the cotter pin; a new one is required on reassembly.
    Aluminum knuckle — never strike directly. Use a separator tool.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Support the knuckle and remove strut-to-knuckle bolts
    Support the knuckle/lower control arm with a jack so it does not drop on the half-shaft or brake hose. Remove the two strut-to-knuckle through-bolts. Mark orientation if any cam/eccentric hardware is present so alignment is preserved as closely as possible.
    Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
    Torque spec
    Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Remove the upper strut tower nuts
    From inside the frunk area, remove the trim/cover as needed to access the strut tower. Have an assistant support the strut from below. Loosen and remove the upper strut tower nuts (do NOT remove the center damper shaft nut while the strut is still in the vehicle — this nut retains the spring/bearing assembly).
    Torque spec
    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle
    Carefully maneuver the strut assembly down and out from the wheel well. Watch the air line and any harnesses. Place the strut on a clean bench.
  7. 7
    Compress the spring and disassemble the strut
    Install the strut into a properly rated external spring compressor (or use a manufacturer-specified bench fixture suitable for this air-strut assembly). Compress the spring until tension is off the upper mount. Hold the damper shaft with the appropriate hex/Allen tool and remove the center top nut. Lift off the upper mount, the strut bearing, the upper spring seat/isolator, and the dust boot/bump stop in order. Note orientation of every component.
    ⚠️A loaded spring can kill if released uncontrolled. Verify compressor engagement before loosening the top nut.
  8. 8
    Replace the strut bearing
    Remove the old bearing. Inspect the upper mount, spring isolator, bump stop, and dust boot — replace any cracked, deformed, or contaminated parts. Install the new bearing in the correct orientation (note any directional arrow or stepped face). Lightly lubricate only if specified by the bearing manufacturer; many sealed bearings are pre-greased and should not be packed.
  9. 9
    Reassemble the strut
    Restack the components in reverse order: lower spring seat (already on strut), spring (with end correctly indexed in seat), bump stop/dust boot, upper isolator, bearing, upper mount. Thread on the center top nut. Hold the damper shaft with the hex tool and torque the center nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual (this value is not in the verified torque list). Slowly release the spring compressor, ensuring spring ends are seated in their pockets.
    If the spring is not seated in both upper and lower pockets, the strut will bind and ride height will be off.
  10. 10
    Reinstall the strut into the vehicle
    Maneuver the strut back into the tower and through the knuckle. Hand-start the upper tower nuts and the strut-to-knuckle bolts before final torque. Torque the upper strut tower nuts and the strut-to-knuckle bolts to spec.
    Torque spec
    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
    Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reconnect ball joint, sway bar link, air line, and sensor
    Reattach the lower ball joint with a NEW cotter pin after torquing the castle nut. Reconnect the sway bar end link. Reconnect the air line (ensure fitting is clean and fully seated) and the level sensor connector.
    Always use a NEW cotter pin on the ball joint — never reuse.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel. Snug lugs, lower the vehicle so weight is on the wheels, then final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern. Any control arm pivot bolts that were loosened must be final-torqued at ride height.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall any frunk trim or cowl panels that were removed for strut tower access.
  2. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery negative terminal and torque to OEM specification.
  3. Close the frunk and verify proper latch.
  4. Power the vehicle on. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen — the air suspension will re-pressurize and self-level. Listen for compressor cycling longer than normal, which can indicate an air leak at the disconnected fitting.

Verification

  • Confirm no Vehicle Hold / Suspension Fault alerts on the instrument cluster after exiting Jack Mode.
  • Verify the vehicle levels evenly front-to-rear and side-to-side at the same ride height setting.
  • Spray soapy water on the air line fitting at the strut top and watch for bubbles — no leaks should be present at full pressure.
  • Test drive at low speed and listen for clicking/popping during steering lock-to-lock — a properly installed bearing should be silent.
  • Get a four-wheel alignment performed; Plaid is sensitive to camber/toe and Autopilot lane-centering can drift if alignment is off.
  • Recheck strut-to-knuckle and upper tower fasteners after the first 100–200 miles.

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