Replacement of worn subframe bushings on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The rear subframe (cradle) on this tri-motor AWD carries significant torque load from the dual rear motors, and bushing wear causes clunking and alignment drift. This is a heavy, support-intensive job requiring the subframe to be lowered.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Subframe bushings (set) × 4 — OEM Tesla Model S Plaid rear subframe bushing set — verify by VIN
• Subframe-to-body bolts (single-use if specified by Tesla) × 4 — OEM specification — replace if torque-to-yield
• Cotter pin (if any ball joint nut is disturbed) × 2 — OEM spec

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium, located under the rear seat on 2021+ Plaid — verify which is fitted) low-voltage battery negative terminal.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Jack Mode / Service Mode on the touchscreen BEFORE shutting down to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
8. Raise vehicle on a lift using only Tesla-approved jack pad locations with rubber pucks — the rocker pinch welds are aluminum and will deform.
9. Remove rear wheels.
10. Remove the rear underbody aero panels to expose the subframe. Note fastener locations — there are mixed plastic clips and metal bolts.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually inspect the rear subframe bushings, surrounding HV cabling routing, brake lines, and any wiring harnesses tied to the cradle. Photograph everything. Confirm no orange HV cable is routed through any bracket you plan to remove. If any orange cable must be moved or unclipped to access bushings, STOP — this exceeds the scope of this procedure.
   ⚠️If orange HV cabling obstructs subframe drop, do not proceed.
2. 2

   Mark subframe position
   Using a paint pen, mark the subframe's position against the body at all four mounting points. Mark bolt orientation and any alignment cam positions. This is critical for re-installation alignment on an EV where geometry affects motor torque steer compensation.
3. 3

   Disconnect rear sway bar end links
   Hold the stud with an Allen key and remove the sway bar link nuts at the lower control arm. Swing links out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support and disconnect lower suspension
   Support the lower control arms with jack stands. Remove rear control arm pivot bolts at the subframe side as needed for clearance. Mark cam bolt positions before loosening. If a ball joint must be separated to gain clearance, use a proper ball joint separator — do not pickle-fork (damages boot and aluminum knuckle).
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Disconnect ancillary connections
   Disconnect any low-voltage sensor harnesses, brake line brackets, and parking brake cable brackets attached to the subframe. Do NOT disconnect any orange cable, drive unit cooling line, or motor connector. If a wiring harness is bolted directly to the subframe and routes to the drive unit, leave the drive-unit-side connector intact and unbolt only the bracket.
   Torque spec

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Position subframe support
   Position a transmission jack or subframe support table firmly under the rear cradle. Take up the weight but do not lift. The rear drive unit assembly weight will partially transfer to this support once subframe bolts are loosened.
7. 7

   Loosen subframe-to-body bolts
   With the subframe fully supported, gradually loosen (do not yet remove) the four subframe-to-body bolts in a cross pattern. Lower the support 1–2 inches at a time, checking that no harness, line, or HV cable becomes taut. If anything binds, STOP, raise back up, and identify the obstruction.
8. 8

   Lower subframe for bushing access
   Lower the subframe only as far as needed to access the bushings — typically 4–6 inches. Do NOT fully drop the cradle on this vehicle, as the drive units and HV cabling remain attached above. Secure the lowered subframe with secondary safety stands.
   ⚠️Never work under a subframe supported only by a hydraulic jack — always add safety stands.
9. 9

   Remove old bushings
   Using a bushing press or puller kit, remove the old bushings from the subframe. If bushings are pressed into the body cradle pockets rather than the subframe, this is a more involved removal — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the specific bushing orientation on Plaid. Clean bushing bores thoroughly. Inspect the aluminum subframe for cracks around the bushing bores; replace the subframe if any cracking is found.
10. 10

    Install new bushings
    Press new bushings in using the manufacturer-specified installer adapter. Bushings often have a directional orientation (void/notch alignment) — match the orientation of the originals as marked. Do not use a hammer; aluminum bores will deform. Lubricate only with the bushing manufacturer's specified lubricant if any (do NOT use petroleum grease on rubber bushings).
11. 11

    Raise and align subframe
    Raise the subframe back into position, aligning to the paint marks made earlier. Start all four subframe-to-body bolts by hand. If Tesla specifies single-use stretch bolts for these mounts, install new bolts.
12. 12

    Torque subframe and reconnect suspension
    Torque all subframe and suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for subframe-to-body bolt torque (not in verified list). Reconnect control arms, sway bar links, brake line brackets, and any harness brackets. Control arm pivot bolts must be FINAL torqued with the vehicle's weight on the wheels (loaded ride height) — snug them now, final torque later.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall any underbody aero panels with original fasteners and clips — missing panels reduce range and cause underbody noise.
2. Reinstall rear wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. Lower vehicle to the ground.
4. With vehicle weight on wheels at normal ride height, final-torque the control arm pivot bolts. Failing to do this preloads the bushings and causes premature failure.
5. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery.
6. Exit Jack Mode and allow air suspension to re-level — verify no fault messages on the touchscreen.

Verification

• No suspension or stability fault messages on the touchscreen after a full power cycle.
• Air suspension levels normally and holds height overnight.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps — silence indicates correct bushing seat and torque.
• Mandatory 4-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable rack with EV-specific specs. Plaid tri-motor has tight rear toe/camber tolerances; do not skip.
• After 100 miles, recheck subframe bolt torque and inspect for any bushing migration.
• Note: while the vehicle is on the lift, inspect rear drive unit gear oil condition — Tesla now recommends gear oil service at 12,500 mi initial then every 25,000–50,000 mi. Also a good time to verify brake fluid is within its 2-year service interval.

More procedures for this vehicle