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2024 TESLA MODEL S

Plaid Tri Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs91Labor363Torque5104Fluid8DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls6
suspension

Sway Bar Bushing - Front

for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
30 min
Tools
9
Steps
8

Replace the front sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The bushings are secured by two brackets clamping the bar to the front subframe; the job requires supporting the subframe area and working around the air suspension components.

Warnings

⚠️DO NOT touch or cut any orange cable. The HV pack runs under the cabin floor — keep tools and jack stands clear of pack edges.
This Plaid is equipped with adaptive air suspension. Before lifting, place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable auto-leveling. Failure to do so can damage the air struts or cause the vehicle to attempt to re-level on stands.
Aluminum body and subframe — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use only manufacturer-specified jacking points. Improper lifting will deform the rocker pinch welds and cause expensive body damage.
Sway bar bushings must be installed with the split/slit oriented per OEM spec (typically forward or upward) to prevent squeak and premature wear.
ℹ️Do NOT use petroleum-based grease on rubber sway bar bushings — it will degrade the rubber. Use silicone lubricant or soapy water only if needed for installation.

Tools required

Floor jack with low-profile padEssential
Jack stands (4-ton minimum)Essential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
17mm or 19mm wheel lug socket (verify by trim)Essential
Pry bar
Silicone-safe rubber lubricant or soapy water
Trim panel removal tools

Parts

  • Front sway bar bushings (pair) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified front stabilizer bar bushing for Model S Plaid — match bar diameter

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium under the rear seat, if equipped) low-voltage battery per the architecture notes. The 12V is located in the frunk under the nose cowl panel.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Before disconnecting 12V: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen to lock the air suspension at a fixed ride height (Controls > Service > Jack Mode).
  7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
  8. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the Model S curb weight (~4,800 lb).
  9. Remove both front wheels.
  10. Remove the front aero/belly pan covering the front subframe area to access the sway bar.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect sway bar and surrounding components
    Visually inspect the front sway bar, end links, and bushings. Note the orientation of the existing bushing slits and any alignment marks on the bar. Check end link boots for damage — replace links if torn. Confirm bushing inner diameter matches the new bushings before proceeding.
  2. 2
    Support the sway bar
    Place a transmission jack or sturdy support under the center of the sway bar to prevent it from dropping when bracket bolts are removed. The bar is heavy and can damage surrounding components or air lines if it falls.
    Avoid contact with air suspension lines and wiring harnesses routed near the front subframe.
  3. 3
    Disconnect sway bar end links (if required for clearance)
    If bracket clearance requires it, disconnect the lower sway bar end link from the sway bar on each side. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning. Note: on many installations, the bar can be lowered enough to swap bushings without fully removing end links — assess clearance first.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Remove sway bar bracket bolts
    Locate the two bushing brackets clamping the sway bar to the front subframe. Remove the bracket bolts (typically 2 per bracket). Retain the brackets — they are reused. Inspect bracket threads and bolt condition; replace any bolt that shows corrosion, galling, or stretching.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Lower sway bar and remove old bushings
    Carefully lower the sway bar enough to slide the old bushings off, or split them at the existing slit and peel them off the bar. Clean the bar contact area with a clean rag — remove old rubber residue, dirt, and any corrosion. Do NOT use solvents that will be left on the bar surface.
  6. 6
    Install new bushings
    Open the new bushings at their split and install them onto the bar in the same position as the originals. Orient the slit per OEM specification (typically facing forward or upward, away from road spray). If the bushings are dry rubber, a light film of silicone lubricant or soapy water on the bar contact surface is acceptable — never use petroleum grease.
    Bushing orientation matters. Installing them backwards will cause squeak, premature wear, and possible bar walking.
  7. 7
    Reinstall brackets
    Position the brackets over the new bushings and start all bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum subframe. Snug each bolt evenly, then torque to spec.
    Aluminum subframe threads are easily damaged. Hand-start every bolt.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Reconnect sway bar end links (if disconnected)
    Reattach the end links to the sway bar. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut. Verify boots are seated and undamaged.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Remove the support from under the sway bar.
  2. Reinstall the front aero/belly pan with all original fasteners — missing fasteners cause aero pan flutter and range loss.
  3. Reinstall front wheels and snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
  4. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  5. Final-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to spec — see Wheel Lug Nuts torque.
  6. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery.
  7. Power on the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode (it may auto-exit, or disable manually). Allow the air suspension to re-level fully before driving.

Verification

  • With the vehicle on the ground at normal ride height, visually confirm the sway bar is centered laterally and the bushings are not pinched or rolled.
  • Confirm bracket bolts are seated flush against the subframe with no gaps.
  • Verify the air suspension self-levels to its commanded height after exiting Jack Mode — a stuck-low corner indicates a leveling sensor or air strut issue, not the bushing job, but should be addressed before road test.
  • Test drive over uneven pavement at low speed and listen for clunks, squeaks, or rattles from the front end. A properly installed bushing should be silent.
  • After 50–100 miles, re-inspect bracket bolt torque — sway bar brackets can settle slightly after the bushings break in.
  • While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good time to verify other Tesla service intervals: brake fluid (replace every 2 years — DOT 3 or DOT 4 per VIN), cabin air filter (every 3 years on HEPA-equipped Plaid), and drive unit gear oil if at the 12,500 mi initial service or 25k-50k mi follow-up interval.

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