Replacement of the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The bushings sit in brackets that clamp the sway bar to the rear subframe; this is a straightforward suspension job with no HV exposure.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar bushings (manufacturer-specified for Model S Plaid rear bar diameter) × 2 — OEM Tesla rear sway bar bushing kit — verify by VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on applicable Plaid units) low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model S Plaid the low-voltage battery is typically located in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel; some Plaid builds use a 16V Li-ion under the rear seat — verify before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen to lock out the air suspension.
7. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while tires are on the ground (only if rear wheel removal is required for access).
8. Lift the rear of the vehicle at the Tesla-designated lift points using rated pucks; support on jack stands. Confirm the vehicle is stable before going underneath.
9. Inspect the new bushings against the old — confirm inner diameter matches the rear sway bar diameter and the bracket profile matches.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect the rear sway bar area
   Locate the rear sway bar running across the rear subframe. Identify the two bushing brackets that clamp the bar to the subframe, and the two end links that connect the bar to the rear suspension. Wire-brush the bracket bolts and surrounding area so debris does not fall into the bushing seats during disassembly.
   ⚠Confirm you are working on the sway bar and not a HV cable bracket or coolant line clamp. If unsure, stop and verify.
2. 2

   Support the sway bar
   Place a transmission jack or a floor jack with a wood block under the center of the sway bar to support its weight. The bar will drop slightly when both brackets are removed.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end links (if required for clearance)
   If the bar will not drop far enough to slide bushings off with brackets removed, disconnect one or both end links from the sway bar. Hold the link's internal shaft with a hex key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning. Set hardware aside in order.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the bushing bracket bolts
   Unbolt the first sway bar bushing bracket from the subframe. Support the bar so it does not fall. Repeat for the second bracket. Lower the bar just enough to expose the bushings — do not let it hang on the end links.
   ⚠Do not pry against any aluminum subframe surface or any line/harness routed near the sway bar.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the old bushings
   Slide the split bushings off the sway bar, or open them at the slit if they are slit-style. Note the orientation of the slit (typically pointing up/forward) — the new bushings must be installed the same way. Inspect the bar where the bushing rode for corrosion, scoring, or coating wear; clean as needed.
6. 6

   Install new bushings
   Apply a thin film of the manufacturer-recommended silicone-safe bushing lubricant to the inner surface of the new bushings (do NOT use petroleum grease — it will degrade the rubber). Install the bushings on the bar in the same orientation as removed, with the slit aligned per the original bushing.
7. 7

   Reinstall the bushing brackets
   Lift the sway bar back into position. Start the bracket bolts by hand into the subframe to avoid cross-threading the aluminum. Snug evenly side-to-side, then torque to spec.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect end links (if disconnected)
   Reattach the sway bar end link(s) to the bar. Hold the link's internal shaft with a hex key while torquing the nut to prevent the ball stud from rotating.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Final inspection underneath
   Verify nothing was disturbed near HV cabling, coolant lines, or wiring harnesses. Confirm the bar is centered between the two bushings and not preloaded to one side.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall rear wheels (if removed) and snug lugs by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque rear wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Jack Mode by lowering and re-raising the suspension via the touchscreen — confirm the air suspension self-levels to normal ride height.
6. Allow the touchscreen to fully boot; clear any suspension/12V-disconnect-related alerts.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension or stability-control warnings on the touchscreen after a key cycle.
• Test drive at low speed over an uneven surface — listen for clunks from the rear that would indicate a loose bracket or incorrectly oriented bushing.
• Drive at moderate speed through a sweeping turn in each direction; the rear should feel planted with no looseness or knocking.
• Re-inspect bracket bolts and end-link nuts after the test drive for any movement or witness marks indicating loosening.
• Reminder: while the vehicle is on stands, this is a good time to inspect the rear brake pads, check tire wear/rotation interval (Tesla recommends rear tire rotation every ~6,250 mi due to instant-torque wear), and check the brake fluid service date — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle