Replace a front sway bar (anti-roll bar) end link on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The Plaid uses adaptive air suspension, so the link must be installed with the bar in its natural loaded position to avoid preload and clunking.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar end link assembly (includes new self-locking nuts) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh/Plaid) front sway bar link — verify by VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. On the touchscreen, enable Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
4. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On 2024 Plaid this is typically the 16V lithium unit — check under the rear seat first; if not present, the 12V is in the frunk under the nose cowl panel. Refer to architecture notes.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts one-quarter turn while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points with rubber/urethane pucks — never lift on the battery tray or pinch welds.
9. Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for the Model S curb weight (>5,000 lb).
10. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect the existing sway bar link
   Visually inspect both ball joints on the link for torn boots, play, or seized rotation. Note the orientation of the link (which end attaches to the strut bracket vs. the sway bar) before removal — install the new link in the same orientation.
2. 2

   Apply penetrating oil
   Spray penetrating oil on both nut threads at the top (sway bar end) and bottom (strut/control arm end) of the link. Allow several minutes to soak. Salt-belt vehicles may need extended soak time.
3. 3

   Loosen the upper sway bar link nut
   Insert a hex/Allen key into the center of the link stud to prevent rotation. Using an open-end or crow-foot wrench, loosen and remove the upper nut securing the link to the sway bar.
   ⚠If the stud spins freely and the nut will not come off, grip the stud flats with locking pliers as a last resort — this will destroy the link, which is acceptable since it is being replaced.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Loosen the lower sway bar link nut
   Repeat the same procedure on the lower mounting point where the link attaches to the strut bracket. Hold the stud with the hex key and remove the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the link
   Pull the link free of both mounting points. If tight, gently tap the mounting eye with a soft-faced (rubber or dead-blow) hammer. Do not pry against the aluminum strut bracket or sway bar.
   ⚠Aluminum components — no steel hammers, no prying with screwdrivers against painted/coated surfaces.
6. 6

   Compare old and new links
   Lay the new link next to the old one. Confirm overall length, thread direction, stud size, and orientation match. A mismatched link will preload the sway bar and cause clunking or premature failure.
7. 7

   Install the new link
   Insert the new link into both mounting points in the same orientation as the original. Hand-thread both nuts onto the studs. Use only the new self-locking nuts supplied with the link — do not reuse old nuts.
8. 8

   Torque the link nuts
   While holding each stud with a hex key, torque both nuts to the manufacturer-specified Sway Bar Link Nut value. The vehicle does not need to be at ride height for end-link nuts (they pivot on ball joints), but the sway bar should not be visibly preloaded — if the lower hole and the link do not align freely, the bar bushings or vehicle posture is wrong; investigate before forcing.
   ⚠Never torque a sway bar end-link nut without holding the stud — the ball joint will be destroyed internally and fail prematurely.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the low-voltage battery (16V or 12V depending on configuration).
5. Power on the vehicle and exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen. Allow the air suspension to self-level for approximately 30-60 seconds before driving.

Verification

• With the vehicle at normal ride height, push down firmly on the front fender on the repaired side and release — the suspension should rebound smoothly with no metallic clunk from the sway bar area.
• Take a short test drive over a series of small bumps and through a parking-lot turn. Listen for clunking, rattling, or knocking from the front end — a properly installed link is silent.
• Verify on the touchscreen that no suspension or chassis alerts are present.
• Re-check the sway bar link nut torque after the first 100 miles of driving.
• Tesla recommends front tire rotation every 6,250 mi — since the wheel is already off, this is a good opportunity to inspect tread depth and rotate if due.
• While under the vehicle, take the opportunity to inspect the opposite-side sway bar link, sway bar bushings, and air strut for leakage — air struts on Plaid commonly show wear after ~80K mi.

More procedures for this vehicle