suspension
Sway Bar Links - Front Pair
for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
9
Steps
10
Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The Plaid uses adaptive air suspension, so the vehicle must be set to Jack Mode before lifting to prevent the system from fighting the lift.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. HV systems on the Plaid carry lethal voltage even after shutdown.
⚠This Plaid is equipped with adaptive air suspension. Enable 'Jack Mode' via the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) BEFORE lifting, or the system will attempt to re-level and may damage struts or destabilize the lift.
⚠Aluminum body and subframe — do not strike components with a steel hammer. Use only manufacturer-specified jack points; lifting on a battery rail or floor pan will damage the HV pack enclosure.
⚠Sway bar link studs commonly spin in their bushings. Always hold the stud with a hex key while turning the nut; do not use an impact gun on a spinning stud, as it will destroy the new link.
ℹ️If the original links use a single-use locking nut, replace with new nuts supplied with the link kit.
Tools required
2-post lift or floor jack with jack standsEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad adapters (puck)Essential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (for holding link stud)Essential
Penetrating oil
Pry bar
Breaker bar
Parts
- Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) front stabilizer link — verify by VIN
- Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) front stabilizer link — verify by VIN
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Before disconnecting low-voltage power: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable the air suspension self-leveling.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion, depending on build) low-voltage battery located under the front nose cowl panel. Verify by VIN which battery your car has.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while tires are still on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle using only the four manufacturer-specified jack points with proper Tesla pucks/pad adapters. Support with jack stands rated for the Plaid's curb weight (~4,800 lb).
- Remove both front wheels.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and access the sway bar end linksWith the front wheels removed, locate the front sway bar end links connecting the lower portion of the front strut/knuckle area to the front sway bar. Inspect bushings, boots, and threads. Spray penetrating oil on both upper and lower stud nuts and allow it to soak for several minutes. Note orientation of any spacers or washers for reinstallation.ℹ️On air-suspension Plaids the strut may be partially extended; be aware of where the air line routing sits before swinging tools.
- 2Remove the upper end link nut (driver side)Insert a hex/Allen key into the center of the upper sway bar link stud to prevent it from spinning. Using a wrench on the nut, break loose and remove the upper nut. Do not use an impact gun unless the stud is mechanically held — the stud's internal bushing will fail and shred.
- 3Remove the lower end link nut (driver side)Repeat the hex-key-and-wrench procedure on the lower stud where the link attaches to the sway bar. Once both nuts are off, work the link free. If the stud has corroded into its mating hole, gently tap with a soft-faced (brass/plastic) mallet — never a steel hammer against the aluminum knuckle.⚠Aluminum suspension components — striking with a steel hammer will gouge or fracture the part.
- 4Compare old and new linksLay the old link next to the new replacement. Confirm overall length, stud thread pitch, and orientation of any offset are identical. Mismatched links will preload the sway bar incorrectly and can affect handling and stability control calibration.
- 5Install the new driver-side end linkPosition the new link with correct orientation (note any 'TOP' marking or curvature). Hand-thread both upper and lower nuts to ensure no cross-threading. Snug both before final torque.
- 6Torque the driver-side end link nutsHold the stud with a hex key and torque each end link nut to specification. If the link kit supplied a self-locking nut, use the new nut, not the original.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 7Repeat removal on passenger-side linkMove to the passenger side. Apply penetrating oil, then remove the upper and lower nuts using the same hex-key-hold technique. Remove the link.
- 8Install the new passenger-side end linkInstall the new link in the correct orientation, hand-thread both nuts to avoid cross-threading, and snug them.
- 9Torque the passenger-side end link nutsHold the stud with a hex key and torque each nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 10Final inspectionConfirm both links are seated flush, no boots are torn, and no air suspension lines, ABS sensor wires, or brake hoses were displaced during the work. Verify nothing contacts the new links through the steering range — turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock if possible (with low-voltage still disconnected, this will be manual and stiff; otherwise verify after reconnecting power).
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread lug nuts to avoid cross-threading the aluminum hub threads.
- Lower the vehicle so wheels are bearing weight.
- Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery in the frunk. Reinstall the nose cowl panel.
- Close the frunk. Sit in the driver's seat, press the brake, and wake the vehicle.
- Exit Jack Mode via Controls > Service. Allow the air suspension to re-level to Standard ride height before driving.
- Verify no suspension or stability-control warnings appear on the touchscreen.
Verification
- With the vehicle at normal ride height, visually inspect both new links — they should sit without preload or bind.
- Test drive at low speed over a speed bump or uneven surface; listen for clunks or rattles from the front end. New, properly torqued links should be silent.
- At 25-40 mph, perform gentle left-right transitions; the car should respond crisply with no looseness.
- Verify no Vehicle Dynamics, Stability Control, or Suspension fault messages appear on the touchscreen after a few miles of driving.
- Recheck link nut torque after the first 100-200 miles, especially if aftermarket links were used.
- While the front suspension is exposed, this is a good time to note Tesla's other recommended service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years (3 years for HEPA), and tire rotation every 6,250 miles — the Plaid is particularly hard on front tires due to its weight and tri-motor torque.