Replace a worn or damaged tie rod assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. The Plaid's tri-motor AWD setup uses electric power steering with no hydraulic fluid, but post-replacement alignment is mandatory due to the vehicle's high-performance geometry and torque output.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Tie rod assembly (outer end and/or inner rack-end, manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S Plaid) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) tie rod — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for tie rod end castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Tie rod lock nut (if not reusing) × 1 — OEM-spec

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium, located under the rear seat on 2021+ Plaid — verify your specific vehicle) low-voltage battery. The standard 12V is in the frunk under the nose cowl panel.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Engage Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved puck adapters at the designated jack points; support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove front wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
10. Confirm steering wheel is centered and mark its position before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, count and record the exposed threads on the inner tie rod, or mark the lock nut position with a paint marker. This preserves a baseline toe setting and minimizes alignment drift before the shop alignment.
2. 2

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut at outer tie rod end
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with a new one on reassembly. Loosen and remove the castle nut.
   ⚠Do not reuse cotter pins. A failed cotter pin can allow the tie rod to separate at speed.
3. 3

   Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller to break the tapered joint loose from the knuckle. Avoid a pickle fork unless you are replacing the boot, as it tears the rubber. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — do not pry or hammer aggressively. Use a proper puller.
4. 4

   Loosen tie rod lock nut
   Loosen the lock nut between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod shaft. Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench to prevent it from rotating and damaging the rack bellows.
5. 5

   Remove the tie rod end (and/or inner tie rod if replacing complete assembly)
   Unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner shaft, counting rotations to assist installation of the new part at approximately the same length. If replacing the inner tie rod, displace the rack bellows clamp and use the manufacturer-specified inner tie rod tool to unthread the inner from the rack.
   ℹ️Inner tie rod removal requires a crow's-foot style inner tie rod tool. Do not grip the steering rack housing with pliers.
6. 6

   Install new tie rod assembly
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft to match the recorded thread count. Hand-tighten the lock nut for now — final torque happens after alignment. If the inner was replaced, torque it to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
7. 7

   Reseat tie rod end into knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud of the new tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice. If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until it aligns.
   ⚠️Always tighten — never loosen — to align the cotter pin slot. Loosening below spec can cause joint separation.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reinstall rack bellows (if disturbed)
   If the bellows clamp was removed for inner tie rod access, reseat the bellows on the rack and tie rod, and secure with a new clamp. Confirm no twisting of the bellows.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification (Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen; allow air suspension to re-level.
6. Drive the vehicle SLOWLY (under 10 mph in a parking lot) to a four-wheel alignment shop — do NOT drive at highway speed with un-aligned toe.
7. After alignment is complete, the alignment technician will set final toe and torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).

Verification

• Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight after alignment — Plaid's steer-by-wire-assisted feedback will feel off-center if toe or wheel position is wrong.
• Inspect new tie rod boot/bellows for tears, twists, or pinching after a test drive.
• Verify cotter pin is installed and legs are bent — visual inspection from below.
• Listen for clunks over bumps at low speed; a loose castle nut or improperly seated taper will produce a metallic knock.
• Confirm Tesla touchscreen shows no chassis or steering fault alerts after a key cycle.
• Re-check toe and tie rod lock nut torque (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft) at the alignment rack after 100–200 miles if any abnormal tire wear pattern emerges.
• Note: Tesla's 'no scheduled maintenance' marketing is misleading — confirm the customer is on a 6,250 mi tire rotation interval and 2-year brake fluid service to maximize tire life on this heavy, high-torque platform.

More procedures for this vehicle