steering
Tie Rod End - Inner
for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
10
Steps
9
Replacement of an inner tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. The inner tie rod threads into the electric steering rack and requires an inner tie rod tool; a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair.
Warnings
⚠️Steering components are safety-critical. Improper torque or a missing cotter pin can cause loss of steering control.
⚠️Do not contact or disturb any orange high-voltage cabling that runs along the underbody. If exposed or damaged HV cable is observed, stop work.
⚠Model S Plaid uses an aluminum-intensive body and subframe. Do not strike suspension or steering components with a steel hammer — use a brass/dead-blow hammer or press-style separator.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is required after inner tie rod replacement. Do not return the vehicle to service until alignment is completed.
⚠This Plaid is equipped with air suspension. Disable suspension self-leveling via the touchscreen (Service Mode → Suspension → Jack Mode) before lifting.
ℹ️Electric power steering — no hydraulic fluid is used. Do not search for or add steering fluid.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for ~5,500 lb curb weight)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad adapters (puck)Essential
Torque wrench (5–150 Nm range)Essential
Inner tie rod removal/installation tool (crowfoot style)Essential
Tie rod end / ball joint separator (pickle fork or press-style)
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Soft-jaw vise or rack-holding tool
Pliers for cotter pin and boot clamp removalEssential
Paint pen or marker (for reference marks)Essential
21" or 22" wheel socket (thin-wall, non-marring)Essential
Parts
- Inner tie rod end assembly (front, model-specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified inner tie rod for 2024 Model S Plaid
- Steering rack boot (bellows) × 1 — OEM steering rack boot
- Boot clamps (inner and outer) × 2 — OEM crimp/zip-style boot clamps
- Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model S Plaid this is typically the 16V lithium auxiliary battery — verify location per architecture notes (frunk under nose cowl, or under rear seat depending on build) and disconnect the negative terminal.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved jack pad locations and support on rated jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Mark the current position of the outer tie rod jam nut and count exposed threads so toe can be approximated on reassembly (alignment is still required).
Procedure
- 1Remove the front wheel and inspectWith the vehicle safely supported, remove the front wheel. Inspect the steering rack boot, outer tie rod, ball joint, and surrounding area for damage, leaks, or debris. Confirm the inner tie rod is the failed component (play at the rack-side joint, torn boot with grease, or audible knock when rocking the wheel).
- 2Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckleRemove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut and back off the nut. Use a press-style separator to free the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork tools if the outer tie rod will be reused, as they damage the boot.⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly. Support the joint properly when separating.
- 3Mark and remove the outer tie rodLoosen the outer tie rod jam nut (do not lose the count of threads). Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod, counting full turns to aid reinstallation. Set the outer tie rod and jam nut aside.
- 4Remove the steering rack bootCut or release the inner and outer boot clamps. Slide the bellows boot off the rack and tie rod. Inspect the rack shaft for grease condition, scoring, or contamination. Wipe clean.⚠Do not rotate the steering rack pinion while disassembled — keep the steering wheel locked or hold the rack to prevent internal damage.
- 5Remove the inner tie rodHold the rack shaft with a backup wrench on the flats (or with a dedicated rack-holding tool) to prevent rotation of the rack internals. Using an inner tie rod removal tool sized for the joint, unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack shaft. Discard the old inner tie rod.⚠️Never use the rack housing as a reaction point. Apply counter-hold only on the rack shaft flats — internal damage to the rack is not field-serviceable.
- 6Install the new inner tie rodApply a small amount of thread locker only if specified by the new part's instructions. Thread the new inner tie rod onto the rack shaft by hand, then torque using the inner tie rod tool. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
- 7Install a new rack boot and clampsSlide the new (or carefully reused) bellows boot over the inner tie rod and seat it on the rack housing and inner tie rod shaft. Install new clamps at both ends, ensuring the boot is not twisted and that drain orientations (if marked) face downward.⚠A twisted or pinched boot will fail prematurely and contaminate the rack with water and debris.
- 8Reinstall the outer tie rodThread the jam nut onto the inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod back on, matching the count of turns recorded during disassembly. Do not fully tighten the jam nut yet — toe must be set during alignment.
- 9Reconnect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckleInsert the outer tie rod taper into the knuckle, install the castle nut, and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs to retain. If castle nut slot does not align, tighten further (never loosen) to align.⚠️Always use a NEW cotter pin. Never reuse the old one.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft). Re-torque after first drive.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Reconnect the low-voltage battery negative terminal.
- Power up the vehicle and exit Jack Mode; verify the air suspension self-levels normally.
- Drive the vehicle a short distance only on a flat, safe surface to a wheel alignment rack — do not perform highway driving until alignment is complete.
- Perform a four-wheel alignment per Tesla specifications, then torque the tie rod jam nut after toe is set.
- Verify steering wheel centering; recalibrate steering angle sensor via Service Mode if the wheel is off-center after alignment.
Verification
- Confirm the new inner tie rod has no perceptible play when the front wheel is rocked at 9 and 3 o'clock.
- Confirm the rack boot is intact, properly clamped, not twisted, and seated on both the rack housing and inner tie rod shaft.
- Confirm the outer tie rod castle nut has a new cotter pin properly bent and retained.
- Confirm the Tie Rod Lock Nut (jam nut) was torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) AFTER alignment was completed.
- Test drive: verify the vehicle tracks straight, the steering wheel is centered, and there are no clunks or vibrations from the front end.
- Confirm no steering-related fault messages appear on the touchscreen and that Autosteer/lane keeping behave normally on a known straight road.
- Note for the customer: while in for this repair, also confirm brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and cabin air filter age (every 3 years for HEPA-equipped Model S) as these intervals are commonly overlooked.