Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. This is a steering-critical component requiring a four-wheel alignment afterward; the Plaid's adaptive air suspension and rack geometry make precise reassembly essential.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (front, left or right as applicable) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh/Plaid) outer tie rod end — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec replacement cotter pin (do not reuse)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium on 2021+ Plaid) low-voltage battery. On Model S Plaid the LV battery is located in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel; some 2021+ Plaid units use a 16V Li-ion under the rear seat — verify your configuration before proceeding.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Engage Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable the air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts (on the affected side) while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack point using approved puck adapters and support on jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Inspect the tie rod boot, ball joint play, and outer tie rod thread condition before disassembly to confirm the diagnosis.

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark current tie rod thread position
   Before loosening anything, use a paint pen or thread marker to mark the inner tie rod jam (lock) nut position relative to the inner tie rod shaft, and count/measure the exposed thread length on the inner tie rod. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting until alignment can be performed.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod flats with a wrench and loosen the jam (lock) nut against the outer tie rod end by approximately one turn. Do not fully remove yet — this allows the outer tie rod to spin off later while keeping the lock nut captured for reference.
   ⚠Do not grip the inner tie rod shaft with pliers or a pipe wrench — damage to the shaft requires inner tie rod replacement.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin (do not reuse). Loosen and remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
4. 4

   Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Using a proper tie rod end puller, separate the tapered stud from the steering knuckle. A pickle fork may be used as a last resort but will destroy the boot — only acceptable if replacing the part. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — striking with a steel hammer can crack or deform the casting. Use a puller.
5. 5

   Count rotations and remove the outer tie rod end
   While counting the exact number of full and partial rotations, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record this number — installing the new tie rod with the same thread count provides the closest baseline toe before alignment.
6. 6

   Inspect the inner tie rod and boot
   With the outer removed, inspect the inner tie rod boot for tears, the inner ball socket for play (axial and radial), and the threads for damage or corrosion. If the inner tie rod shows wear, address it before reinstalling — the alignment will not hold otherwise.
7. 7

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of rotations recorded during removal, until the previously marked lock nut position is reached. This sets a near-original toe for the drive to the alignment shop.
8. 8

   Seat the tie rod stud in the steering knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud of the new tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and snug it. Torque the castle nut, then advance (do not back off) to the next slot to align with the cotter pin hole.
   ⚠Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further. Backing off compromises clamp load.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install a new cotter pin
   Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud, and bend the legs to retain. Do not reuse the old cotter pin.
10. 10

    Snug the lock nut (final torque after alignment)
    Hand-snug the inner tie rod lock nut against the new outer tie rod end. Do NOT fully torque yet — the alignment shop will set toe and then torque this nut to the final spec.
    ℹ️Final torque of 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) is to be applied AFTER the alignment is set.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Jack Mode by driving the vehicle (or via the touchscreen prompt) so the air suspension resumes normal operation.
6. Drive directly and gently to an alignment facility — avoid potholes and high-speed maneuvers until alignment is complete.
7. After alignment is performed, torque the tie rod lock nut to its final specification.

Verification

• Confirm no play at the new tie rod end by rocking the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock with the vehicle off the ground — there should be no clunk or movement at the outer joint.
• Verify the cotter pin is installed and the legs are bent to retain.
• Perform a four-wheel alignment — mandatory after any tie rod service. Confirm toe, camber, and caster are within Tesla Model S Plaid spec.
• After alignment, torque the tie rod lock nut to spec (Tie Rod Lock Nut, 68 Nm / 50 lb-ft).
• Test drive on a straight, level road: steering wheel should be centered, no pull, and no vibration. Persistent steering wheel offset after alignment indicates a steering angle sensor recalibration is needed — this typically self-completes during driving but may require service tool intervention if a fault persists.
• Check Autopilot/FSD lane-keeping behavior on the first drive — significant alignment changes can momentarily affect lane centering until the system recalibrates.
• Inspect the new tie rod boot for proper seating and no tears.
• Note: while you have the front suspension serviced, this is a good time to check tire wear pattern — Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 miles due to instant torque and vehicle weight.

More procedures for this vehicle