Replace both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Model S Plaid. The Plaid uses electric power steering with no hydraulic fluid, but a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job because the Plaid has rear steering as well — front toe must be reset before the alignment shop visit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly, left × 1 — Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) Plaid front outer tie rod — verify by VIN
• Outer tie rod end assembly, right × 1 — Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh) Plaid front outer tie rod — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for castle nut × 2 — OEM-specified cotter pin, sized to castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion if so equipped) low-voltage battery located under the nose cowl panel. Reference architecture notes — some 2021+ Plaid units use a 16V Li-ion under the rear seat instead; verify before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if possible — this disables auto-leveling on the air suspension and prevents the car from trying to compress the struts when lifted.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack points and puck adapters. Support on jack stands rated for the Plaid's weight.
9. Remove both front wheels.
10. Inspect inner tie rod boots, ball joints, and steering rack for additional wear before committing to the repair.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document original tie rod length
   Before loosening anything, measure the exposed thread length between the inner tie rod jam nut and the outer tie rod end on BOTH sides. Record both measurements. Mark the jam nut position on the inner tie rod shaft with a paint marker. This gives you a baseline toe setting close enough to safely drive to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod jam nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench (use the flats provided — do not crush the boot) and break loose the jam nut between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end. Do not back it off yet — just break it free. Apply penetrating oil if corroded.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the outer tie rod end
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — never reuse. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on flush with the end of the stud to protect the threads when separating.
   ⚠Leaving the nut on flush prevents the puller from damaging the stud threads and prevents the knuckle from dropping suddenly when the joint releases.
4. 4

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a proper tie rod end puller / separator to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle forks if possible — they tend to tear boots and gouge aluminum knuckles. Once free, fully remove the castle nut and lift the outer tie rod end out of the knuckle.
   ⚠The Plaid steering knuckle is aluminum. Do not hammer it. Use only a press-style separator.
5. 5

   Count rotations and unthread the outer tie rod end
   Counting full turns, unscrew the old outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record the count. Leave the jam nut in place on the inner tie rod shaft for now if it spins freely, or transfer it to the new outer end — whichever is easier given thread condition.
6. 6

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft using the SAME number of rotations counted during removal. Verify the exposed thread length matches your pre-removal measurement within 1 mm. Snug the jam nut by hand for now — final torque happens AFTER alignment.
7. 7

   Reinstall the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud into the knuckle. Install a NEW castle nut (or reuse if specified by the OEM kit) and torque to specification. Continue tightening (never loosening) until the slot in the castle nut aligns with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over to secure.
   ⚠️If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole at the torque spec, tighten further to the next slot — NEVER back off. Backing off drops clamp load and the joint can separate while driving.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Repeat for the opposite side
   Perform steps 1–7 on the other side of the vehicle. Verify the exposed thread length on this side also matches the original measurement.
9. 9

   Pre-alignment toe check (rough)
   With both new outer tie rod ends installed and matching original thread length, verify the steering wheel is centered when wheels are pointed straight (visual check). Hand-tighten the jam nuts so the tie rods do not rotate during transport to the alignment shop. Do NOT final-torque the jam nuts yet — the alignment tech needs to adjust toe.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread lug nuts to avoid cross-threading.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery.
5. Close frunk and reinstall any cowl panels removed for battery access.
6. Drive SLOWLY and DIRECTLY to an alignment shop — do not drive at highway speed with un-aligned new tie rods.
7. After the alignment is performed and toe is set, the alignment tech (or you, post-alignment) must final-torque the tie rod jam nuts to specification while holding the inner tie rod stationary.

Verification

• Confirm a four-wheel alignment was performed and that front toe is within Tesla Model S Plaid spec — request the printout from the alignment shop.
• Final torque both tie rod jam nuts AFTER alignment is complete.
• Verify both new cotter pins are installed and bent over at the castle nuts.
• With the car on the ground and steering wheel centered, confirm the vehicle drives straight on a flat road and the steering wheel sits level.
• Check the touchscreen for any steering-related fault messages (EPAS warnings, lane keeping calibration warnings). The Plaid may request an autosteer/camera recalibration drive after suspension geometry changes — complete the calibration drive per the on-screen prompts.
• Inspect new tie rod end boots for damage or grease leakage after the first short test drive.
• Recheck front toe and tire wear pattern at 500 miles — Plaid tires (especially 21"/22") show toe-related wear quickly.

More procedures for this vehicle