Replacement of an upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid. This procedure covers the front upper control arm; the Plaid uses adaptive air suspension, so air system precautions apply.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (front, Model S 2021+ Plaid) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified upper control arm — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM specification cotter pin
• Ball joint castle nut (recommended replacement) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V lithium on this 2024 Plaid — located under the rear seat on some 2021+ Plaid builds; verify location) low-voltage battery. Refer to architecture notes.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: enter the touchscreen and activate Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Chock the rear wheels. Lift the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points with proper Tesla puck adapters — the aluminum pinch welds will deform if lifted incorrectly.
9. Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheel
   Fully remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set aside on the inboard face to avoid scratching the finish.
2. 2

   Inspect surroundings
   Visually inspect the area around the upper control arm for any orange HV cabling, sensor wiring, or air suspension lines. Note the routing of the air strut line and any ride-height sensor linkage so they can be protected during the procedure.
   ⚠️If any orange cabling is visible or appears damaged, STOP work immediately.
3. 3

   Support the knuckle
   Place a jack with a rubber pad under the steering knuckle / lower control arm to support the assembly. This prevents the knuckle from dropping and stressing the brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, and half-shaft when the upper ball joint is released.
4. 4

   Remove cotter pin and loosen ball joint nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut — leave it threaded a few turns to protect the threads when separating the ball joint.
5. 5

   Separate upper ball joint from knuckle
   Use a ball joint separator tool to break the taper between the upper ball joint stud and the knuckle. Avoid hammering on the knuckle. Once separated, fully remove the castle nut and lift the ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not allow the knuckle to swing outward — it will stress the brake line and ABS harness.
6. 6

   Remove control arm pivot hardware
   Locate the inboard pivot bolt(s) securing the upper control arm to the manufacturer-specified bracket on the body/subframe. Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers if present (they affect alignment). Remove the pivot bolt(s) and withdraw the control arm.
   ℹ️Mark the position of any alignment cams before removal to make alignment easier on reassembly.
7. 7

   Compare old and new arm
   Lay the new arm next to the old to confirm correct ball joint orientation, bushing length, and bolt-hole geometry. Confirm any included hardware (cotter pin, washers) is present.
8. 8

   Install new upper control arm
   Position the new control arm at the inboard pivot mount. Hand-thread the pivot bolt(s) with any cams/washers in their original orientation. Do not fully torque yet — these must be torqued at ride height.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
   Insert the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install a new castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (never loosening) only as needed to align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs to lock.
   ⚠If the cotter pin holes do not align at spec torque, tighten further — never back off. Use a new castle nut if needed.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts. Snug them in a star pattern but do not final-torque while the wheel is in the air.
11. 11

    Lower vehicle and final-torque pivot bolts at ride height
    Remove the knuckle support jack. Lower the vehicle so the suspension carries the full vehicle weight. With the suspension loaded at ride height, final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolt(s).
    ⚠Torquing pivot bolts with the suspension drooping will pre-load the bushings and cause early failure or noise.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground, final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the low-voltage battery (12V or 16V depending on build).
2. Exit Jack Mode by closing it on the touchscreen, or it will time out automatically.
3. Allow the air suspension to cycle and self-level. Watch for any leaks, error messages, or uneven ride height.
4. Confirm there are no suspension fault messages on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Perform a four-wheel alignment immediately — upper control arm replacement directly affects camber and caster on the Model S.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for any clunks, knocks, or rubbing from the front suspension.
• Check the touchscreen for any 'Vehicle Suspension Fault' or 'Air Suspension Needs Service' alerts.
• Verify ride height visually is symmetric side-to-side (Plaid has self-leveling air, but a damaged sensor or pinched line will show as uneven height).
• Re-inspect the cotter pin installation on the ball joint after the test drive.
• Note: While under the vehicle, this is also a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and check drive unit fluid service interval per Tesla's current guidance (initial service ~12,500 mi, then every 25,000–50,000 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle