Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid (Tri-Motor AWD). The front hub assembly uses a press-fit bearing in the steering knuckle; on AWD/Plaid the front axle (CV) shaft passes through the hub, so the axle nut must be removed and the bearing pressed out of the knuckle.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in, manufacturer-specified for Model S Plaid) × 1 — Tesla OEM front wheel bearing — verify by VIN
• Axle/spindle nut (one-time-use; replace with new) × 1 — OEM axle nut — single-use stake/cotter type
• Cotter pin (if axle nut uses cotter retention) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Bearing retaining snap ring (if equipped) × 1 — OEM internal snap ring
• Hub bolts (replace if specified as single-use) × 3 — OEM hub-to-knuckle bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on 2021+ Plaid) low-voltage battery. On Model S Plaid the 12V/16V battery is located in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel — remove the cowl, then disconnect negative first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable 'Jack Mode' on the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) BEFORE disconnecting 12V, so the air suspension stays in service height. (If 12V is already disconnected, you must reconnect briefly to set Jack Mode, then disconnect again.)
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using Tesla-approved jack pad adapters and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove the brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the front brake caliper from its bracket, then remove the caliper bracket from the steering knuckle. Support the caliper with a hook or bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip (if present) and slide the rotor off. Torque to OEM specification on reinstall — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
2. 2

   Disconnect the ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the steering knuckle. Remove the sensor retaining bolt and gently pull the sensor straight out. Unclip the harness from the knuckle and strut so it is fully free. Inspect the sensor tip for debris.
   ⚠Do not pry on the sensor body — corroded sensors can shear. Apply penetrating oil and rotate gently to free.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the axle (CV) nut
   Remove the cotter pin or unstake the axle nut. With an assistant holding the brake pedal (or with the wheel back on the ground briefly), break the axle nut loose using a breaker bar. Discard the nut — it is single-use. Confirm the nut type (staked vs. cotter pin) before reassembly.
   ⚠️NEVER reuse the axle nut. Always install a new manufacturer-specified nut and cotter pin/stake on reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate steering and suspension links from the knuckle
   Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the knuckle. If working with the knuckle on the car, also disconnect the upper or lower control arm ball joint as required to gain clearance to push the CV shaft out of the hub. Torque to OEM specification on reinstall — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Aluminum control arms — do not strike. Use a press-style ball joint separator, not a pickle fork, to avoid tearing boots or marring aluminum.
5. 5

   Push the CV axle out of the hub
   Using a soft-faced mallet, gently tap the end of the CV stub shaft inward to free it from the hub splines. If seized, use a hub puller. Support the CV shaft — do not let it hang by the inner joint, as this can over-articulate the inner tripod and damage it.
   ⚠Do not strike the CV shaft threads directly. Thread the old nut on flush to protect threads if hammering is required.
   Torque spec

   CV Joint Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the hub from the knuckle
   Remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts from the rear of the knuckle and withdraw the hub flange. If the hub is seized in the bearing inner race, use a slide hammer with a lug-bolt adapter to extract it. Inspect the hub flange sealing surface for scoring.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the steering knuckle (recommended for press work)
   For press-in bearing replacement, it is strongly recommended to remove the knuckle from the vehicle. Disconnect the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt or upper mount as applicable, then lift the knuckle clear. Take the knuckle to a hydraulic press. Alternatively, use a quality on-car bearing press kit. Torque to OEM specification on reinstall — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Mark the strut-to-knuckle position before separation if alignment cams are present, to preserve approximate camber.
8. 8

   Remove the old bearing
   Remove the internal snap ring (if equipped) using snap-ring pliers. Support the knuckle in the press with the correct cup adapters and press the old bearing OUT in the proper direction (typically from the hub side toward the inboard side, per manufacturer). Clean the bore thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Inspect the knuckle bore for scoring, ovality, or cracks — replace the knuckle if damaged.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle (if applicable) — do NOT use excessive press force or heat. If the bearing will not move at moderate pressure, stop and reassess; cracking the knuckle is a 4-figure mistake.
9. 9

   Press in the new bearing
   Lubricate the bore lightly with assembly lube (NOT anti-seize on the bearing OD unless the manufacturer specifies). Press the new bearing IN using a driver that contacts ONLY the OUTER race. Press until fully seated against the shoulder or until the snap ring groove is visible. Install a new internal snap ring if equipped.
   ⚠️NEVER press on the inner race during installation — this destroys the bearing instantly. Use the correct cup that contacts the outer race only.
10. 10

    Reinstall hub flange
    With the bearing installed, press the hub flange into the inner race, again supporting the OUTER race only during the press. Install the hub-to-knuckle bolts (replace if single-use) and torque in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the steering knuckle to the strut and control arms. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
2. Reconnect the tie rod end and any disconnected ball joints. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
3. Slide the CV stub shaft through the new hub bearing. Ensure splines engage cleanly — do not force.
4. Install a NEW axle nut and torque to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as required by the OEM nut type.
5. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and torque the bolt to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Reroute the harness in its original clips.
6. Reinstall the brake rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper. Torque caliper hardware to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the vehicle.
7. Reinstall the front wheel. Snug lug nuts by hand, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
8. Final-torque wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
9. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative).

Verification

• Power on the vehicle. Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings on the touchscreen — a misinstalled ABS sensor or damaged tone ring will trigger faults immediately.
• Exit Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode > Exit) and confirm the air suspension levels normally to standard ride height.
• Perform a low-speed (5–10 mph) test in a safe area, listening for grinding, growling, or clicking from the front hub. A new bearing should be silent.
• Test at 30–50 mph and gently steer left/right. Bearing noise that changes with cornering load indicates a damaged bearing (often from inner-race pressing) — rework required.
• Verify ABS function under a controlled hard stop on a safe surface; the system should engage without warning lights.
• Recommended: have a 4-wheel alignment performed, as suspension separation can shift camber/toe. Tesla specifies tight alignment tolerances for tire wear, especially with 21"/22" Plaid wheels.
• Re-check wheel lug torque after 50 miles (Tesla recommends a re-torque after any wheel-off service).

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