drivetrain
Wheel Bearing Hub - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
14
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replacement of a rear wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid AWD. The rear hub is integrated with the half-shaft; the axle nut must be loosened with the wheel on the ground or while a helper holds the brake, and the assembly is pressed/bolted to the rear knuckle.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. The HV pack runs under the cabin floor — keep all tools clear of the underbody HV harness routing.
⚠The Model S body and many suspension components are aluminum. Never strike with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift to avoid cracking or galling.
⚠Lift only on Tesla-specified jack points using approved pucks. Lifting on the battery pack edge or pinch welds will deform the aluminum floor and can damage the HV pack.
⚠The axle nut is torque-critical (200 Nm). An under- or over-torqued axle nut can destroy the new bearing or cause wheel separation.
ℹ️On AWD/Plaid, the rear half-shafts transmit motor torque even when the vehicle is 'off.' Confirm the vehicle is in Park, key fob removed, and the 12V/16V LV battery is disconnected before working on the driveline.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for Model S curb weight (~4,800 lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad adapters (puck) to protect aluminum pinch weldsEssential
Torque wrench, 1/2" drive (20–150 lb-ft range)Essential
Torque wrench, 3/8" drive (5–50 lb-ft range)Essential
Breaker bar, 1/2" driveEssential
32 mm or 36 mm axle nut socket (verify size on vehicle)Essential
Triple-square (XZN) and Torx bit set (E-Torx and standard Torx commonly used on Tesla driveline)Essential
Hex/Allen socket setEssential
Slide hammer or hub puller (for stuck hub assemblies)
Soft-faced dead-blow mallet (NO steel hammer on aluminum suspension)Essential
Wire/zip-tie to support brake caliperEssential
Brake cleaner and shop rags
Medium-strength threadlocker (blue)Essential
Anti-seize compound (for hub-to-knuckle mating surface)
Parts
- Rear wheel bearing/hub assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S Plaid) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear hub assembly — verify by VIN
- Axle nut (single-use, replace any time it is loosened) × 1 — OEM single-use stake/prevailing-torque nut
- Hub mounting bolts (replace if specified by manufacturer) × 4 — OEM bolts — reuse only if Service Manual permits
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the low-voltage battery (12V AGM under the nose cowl, or 16V Li-ion under the rear seat on applicable 2021+ Plaid builds — verify by VIN/architecture).
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Transport Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen if the LV battery is reconnected for any portion of the job (this disables auto-leveling on the air suspension and prevents the car from trying to raise/lower itself).
- Note: Plaid is air-suspension equipped. Setting Jack Mode prevents compressor activity while lifted.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts ~1/2 turn with the wheel still on the ground.
- With a helper firmly on the brake pedal (or wheel grounded), break the axle nut loose. Do not fully remove yet.
- Lift the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points using approved pucks and support on jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheel.
Procedure
- 1Remove brake caliper and bracketRemove the two rear caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper-and-bracket assembly off the rotor. Support it with wire or a bungee from the upper control arm — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Inspect the hose and electronic parking brake (EPB) wiring for the rear caliper; the EPB motor cable must not be stretched or pinched.⚠The rear caliper has an integrated electronic parking brake motor. Do not unplug or yank its harness.
- 2Remove brake rotorRemove the rotor retaining screw (if present) and slide the rotor off the hub. If corroded, tap evenly around the rotor hat with a dead-blow — do not strike the hub face or the aluminum knuckle.
- 3Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensorRemove the ABS wheel speed sensor bolt from the knuckle and carefully withdraw the sensor. Unclip the sensor harness from any retainers on the knuckle and trailing arm so it is free of the hub area. Inspect the sensor tip for damage; replace if scored.⚠Do not pry the sensor out with metal tools — Tesla ABS sensors are easily broken at the tip.
- 4Remove axle nut and free hub from half-shaftFully remove the (already-broken-loose) axle nut and discard it — it is single-use. Push the half-shaft splined stub inward through the hub. If it is seized, use a hub puller; do NOT hammer the end of the half-shaft, as this can damage the inner CV or the rear drive unit output bearing.⚠️Never strike the half-shaft end with a steel hammer. Shock loading can damage the rear drive unit internals.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 5Support and separate inner CV (if required for clearance)On many Model S rear setups, removing the hub bolts allows the hub to come off the half-shaft splines without disturbing the inner CV. If additional clearance is required, unbolt the inner CV joint flange from the rear drive unit output flange. Support the half-shaft so it does not hang. Mark orientation before disassembly.⚠Do not let the half-shaft hang by the outer CV — it can over-articulate and damage the boot/cage.
- 6Remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly from the knuckleRemove the four hub-to-knuckle mounting bolts from the rear (inboard) side of the knuckle. Withdraw the hub assembly forward through the knuckle. If the hub is corroded into the knuckle bore, tap evenly with a brass drift or use a hub puller — do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with steel.⚠The knuckle is aluminum on this chassis. Damage to the hub bore is not repairable — the knuckle would need replacement.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 7Clean knuckle hub bore and mating surfacesWire-brush and clean the hub mounting flange of the knuckle. Remove all old threadlocker from bolt holes (chase threads with a thread chaser, NOT a cutting tap). A light film of anti-seize on the hub-to-knuckle pilot diameter (NOT on the bolt threads) helps future removal.
- 8Install new wheel bearing/hub assemblyPosition the new hub assembly into the knuckle and install the four mounting bolts. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the bolt threads if specified by the Service Manual. Tighten in a cross pattern in two stages to final spec.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 9Reinstall half-shaft / inner CV (if disconnected)If the inner CV was unbolted, align the orientation marks and reinstall the CV bolts in a star pattern. Apply threadlocker per OEM specification. Tighten evenly in two stages to final torque.
- 10Install new axle nutSlide the half-shaft splined stub through the new hub. Install a NEW axle nut (single-use). Final-torque the axle nut with the wheel either back on the ground or with a helper firmly holding the brake pedal — never with the wheel hanging free, as you can damage the new bearing.⚠Axle nut torque is critical (200 Nm). Always use a calibrated torque wrench, not an impact.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall ABS sensorReseat the ABS wheel speed sensor in the knuckle and torque the retaining bolt. Re-clip the harness into all original retainers — a loose harness against a rotating CV will be cut within minutes.
- 12Reinstall rotor and caliper bracketSlide the rotor onto the new hub. Apply threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts and torque to spec. Confirm the caliper slides freely on its guide pins and the EPB harness is routed without strain.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the rear wheel. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern by hand.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the low-voltage (12V/16V) battery in the frunk or under rear seat as applicable.
- Close the frunk; sit in the driver's seat with the key fob present and wake the vehicle.
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension (Plaid) to re-level.
- Press the brake pedal several times before driving to confirm firm pedal — the EPB will self-test on first wake.
Verification
- With the wheel off the ground, spin the hub by hand: it should rotate smoothly with no roughness, grinding, or play. Rock at 12/6 and 3/9 — there should be zero perceptible play.
- On a short, slow test drive, listen for the original wheel-bearing hum/growl — it should be gone. The noise typically changes with vehicle speed (not engine/motor RPM) and may shift when changing lanes (loading/unloading the bearing).
- Check the touchscreen for any new ABS, traction control, or vehicle dynamics alerts. The ABS system should self-calibrate within the first few wheel rotations; if a fault persists, re-inspect the speed sensor seating and connector.
- After the test drive, recheck wheel lug nut torque to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
- Tesla recommends rear tire rotation every 6,250 mi — note this in the service log so the customer is reminded at the next interval.
- If the vehicle is approaching the 2-year mark, advise the owner that brake fluid service (DOT 3 or DOT 4 — verify by VIN) is on Tesla's published 2-year interval, since the brake system was opened-adjacent during this job.