Brake Caliper Bracket

Replace the brake caliper bracket on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. The caliper bracket is the steel/aluminum carrier that mounts the caliper to the steering knuckle/hub assembly and supports the brake pads.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Brake caliper bracket (manufacturer-specified, side-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X (2024) caliper bracket — verify front vs rear and left vs right
• Caliper bracket mounting bolts (if specified as single-use) × 2 — OEM specification — replace if Tesla service manual lists as one-time-use
• Brake pads (inspect; replace if removed and worn or contaminated) × 1 — OEM-equivalent pads matching Plaid brake package

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (only if hydraulic line is opened)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative terminal first). On 2024 Model X, the 12V battery is located in the frunk, similar to Model S.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. On the touchscreen (before disconnecting 12V if needed), enable Jack Mode under Service to lock the air suspension at current ride height and prevent self-leveling.
7. Loosen the wheel lug nuts on the affected corner while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack point using rubber pucks. Support with jack stands rated for the Model X's curb weight.
9. Remove the wheel and inspect the caliper, bracket, pads, rotor, and hub for damage or contamination before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and prepare the corner
   With the wheel removed, visually inspect the brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, caliper, bracket, and rotor. Confirm which fasteners attach the caliper to the bracket and which attach the bracket to the knuckle. Photograph the assembly for reference.
2. 2

   Support the caliper
   Position a caliper hanger or heavy-gauge wire near the strut/coil so the caliper can be suspended without stressing the flexible brake hose. The hose must NOT support the caliper's weight at any point.
   ⚠Letting the caliper hang on the brake hose can damage the hose internally and cause a future failure.
3. 3

   Remove the caliper from the bracket
   Loosen and remove the caliper-to-bracket fasteners (slide pin bolts on a sliding caliper, or caliper mounting bolts on a fixed-style caliper as used on Plaid performance brakes). Lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it from the hanger. Do not disconnect the brake hose unless absolutely necessary.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Caliper Mounting Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the brake pads
   Slide the brake pads out of the bracket, noting orientation and any anti-rattle clips or shims. Inspect pads for even wear; if they are mid-life and uncontaminated they may be reused with the new bracket.
5. 5

   Remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle
   Using a breaker bar and the correct socket, remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle (front) or rear upright. These are high-torque fasteners and may have factory threadlocker — expect significant breakaway force. Support the bracket as the second bolt comes free.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle threads can be damaged by cross-threading or impact gun abuse on reinstall. Use a hand torque wrench for final torque.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Clean the mounting surfaces
   Wire-brush the bracket mounting pads on the knuckle. Remove old threadlocker residue from the bolt holes using a thread chaser if available (do not use a cutting tap — chase only). Wipe surfaces with brake cleaner and allow to dry.
7. 7

   Install the new caliper bracket
   Compare the new bracket to the old one for orientation, ear position, and pad abutment surfaces. Apply medium-strength (blue) threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts unless the new bolts come pre-applied with patch threadlocker. Hand-thread both bolts fully before torquing to avoid cross-threading the aluminum knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Torque caliper bracket bolts
   Torque the caliper bracket bolts to specification. Verify torque sequence with the Tesla Service Manual — typically alternating between bolts in two passes (first pass to ~50%, final pass to full spec).
   ⚠️These are CRITICAL fasteners. Under-torque can allow the bracket to walk loose; over-torque can stretch the bolt or strip the knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall brake pads
   Install the brake pads into the new bracket along with any anti-rattle clips, abutment shims, or wear sensors. Verify free movement in the bracket abutments.
10. 10

    Reinstall the caliper
    If equipped with slide pins, clean and re-grease the slide pins with silicone brake grease, then reinstall and torque. If the caliper is fixed-mount (multi-piston), reinstall using the caliper mounting bolts to OEM specification. Verify the caliper sits centered over the rotor with even pad-to-rotor clearance.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

    Caliper Mounting Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Bleed (only if hydraulic line was opened)
    If the brake hose was disconnected for any reason, replace the copper washers and torque the banjo bolt to spec, then bleed the caliper at the bleeder screw using DOT 3 brake fluid until clean, air-free fluid emerges. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for bleed sequence.
    ⚠Do not overtighten the bleeder screw — the small fitting strips easily.
    Torque spec

    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt41 Nm (30 lb-ft)

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative). Close the frunk.
4. Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to re-level.
5. With the vehicle running and in P, press the brake pedal firmly several times until the pedal feels solid. Do NOT move the vehicle until pedal is firm — the pads must seat against the rotor.
6. Check brake fluid reservoir level and top up with DOT 3 if necessary.

Verification

• Pedal should be firm and high after 3-5 pumps; no spongy feel (spongy = air in system if line was opened).
• Inspect the caliper bracket bolts visually after a short test drive — verify no movement, no fluid weeping, and no witness marks indicating loosening.
• Perform a low-speed (5–15 mph) brake test in a safe area, checking for pull, noise, or pulsation before higher-speed testing.
• Check Tesla touchscreen for any ABS, brake, or vehicle hold faults. Clear codes only after confirming no real fault.
• Bed the new pads (if pads were replaced) per the pad manufacturer's procedure — typically several moderate stops from ~30 mph.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If fluid is older than 2 years, schedule a flush.
• Re-torque the wheel lug nuts after approximately 50–100 miles.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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