Replacement of both front brake rotors on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The Plaid uses large performance-spec front brakes; rotors are heavy and the calipers must be supported during removal to avoid stressing the flexible brake hose.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotors (OEM-spec for Model X Plaid front axle — note Plaid uses larger rotors than Long Range) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified Model X Plaid front rotor
• Rotor set screws (often single-use, replace if damaged) × 2 — OEM rotor retention screw

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (under the frunk liner, similar position to Model S). Open the frunk before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. On the touchscreen (before disconnecting 12V), enable Jack Mode: Controls > Service > Jack Mode. This locks the air suspension at the current height and prevents the system from re-leveling when wheels are lifted.
7. Loosen front lug nuts 1/4 turn while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using approved jack pucks. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove both front wheels and set aside on their faces to avoid scratching.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect the brake assembly
   Before disassembly, photograph the caliper, bracket, and any electrical connectors (Plaid front calipers may have wear sensor leads on certain trims). Inspect the flexible brake hose for cracks and the dust shield for damage. Note rotor wear pattern for diagnostic context.
2. 2

   Retract caliper piston(s)
   If the caliper has a fixed (multi-piston) design as on Model X Plaid front, you do not retract pistons via C-clamp before caliper removal — instead, plan to lift the entire caliper off the rotor without compressing pistons. If a sliding caliper is fitted, gently push pistons back using a C-clamp against the old pad. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap in the frunk briefly to relieve pressure if needed, then re-cap.
   ⚠Do not let brake fluid overflow the reservoir when retracting pistons. Siphon a small amount out first if the reservoir is full.
3. 3

   Remove the caliper
   Remove the two caliper bolts (or slide pin bolts on a sliding-caliper design) securing the caliper to the bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a bungee cord or caliper hanger from the suspension — DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose.
   ⚠️The flexible brake hose will tear if the caliper hangs from it. Always support the caliper.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the caliper bracket
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are torqued tight and may have factory threadlocker — use a breaker bar. Set the bracket aside; clean any debris from the mounting face.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the rotor set screw
   Remove the small Torx or hex set screw that retains the rotor to the hub. These screws can be seized — use proper-fitting bit and steady pressure to avoid stripping. If stripped, an impact driver may be required.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If seized due to corrosion at the hub-rotor interface, apply penetrating oil between the hat and hub and tap the rotor face (not the edge) with a dead-blow mallet. Some rotors have threaded jacking holes — thread in two bolts evenly to push the rotor off the hub.
   ⚠Front Plaid rotors are heavy. Use two hands and brace your body to avoid dropping onto the wheel speed sensor or dust shield.
7. 7

   Clean the hub face
   Wire-brush the hub face to remove all rust and corrosion. The new rotor must seat flat against bare metal — any debris between hub and rotor causes lateral runout and brake pulsation. A very thin film of anti-seize on the hub face center (NOT on the friction surface) helps prevent future seizing.
   ⚠Keep all anti-seize, grease, or oil away from the rotor friction surfaces and brake pads.
8. 8

   Install the new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil. Slide the rotor onto the hub, aligning the set screw hole. Install and tighten the rotor set screw — this is a low-torque fastener whose only job is to hold the rotor while the wheel is off.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall the caliper bracket
   Inspect bracket bolt threads. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the bracket bolt threads. Hand-thread both bolts before torquing to avoid cross-threading the aluminum knuckle. Torque to spec — refer to the verified torque list and follow the Tesla Service Manual sequence.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the caliper
    If the caliper uses slide pins, inspect the boots for tears and apply silicone brake grease to the pin shafts before reinstalling. Position caliper over the rotor (with pads in place — pad replacement procedure is separate if applicable) and torque the caliper or slide pin bolts to spec.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1-10 on the opposite front wheel. Confirm both rotors are oriented correctly (directional rotors have rotation arrows — vanes should sweep rearward at the top of the rotor).

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle until tires just touch the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
3. Lower the vehicle fully and remove jack stands.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk. Close the frunk.
5. Re-enter the vehicle. Disable Jack Mode (it should clear automatically once driving, but verify on the touchscreen).
6. With the vehicle in P and brake pedal depressed, pump the brake pedal 5-10 times until firm. This re-seats the caliper pistons against the new rotors. Do not attempt to drive until the pedal is firm.
7. Check brake fluid reservoir level (in the frunk) and top up with DOT 3 if low.
8. Re-torque lug nuts after 50 miles of driving (Tesla recommendation due to aluminum wheel/hub interface settling).

Verification

• Confirm brake pedal is firm before moving the vehicle. A soft or sinking pedal indicates a hydraulic issue — do not drive.
• At low speed in an empty area, perform several gentle stops from 5-10 mph to confirm braking function and no abnormal noise.
• Bed in the new rotors per the rotor manufacturer's procedure — typically 8-10 moderate stops from 35 mph down to 5 mph without coming to a complete stop, then a cool-down period without stopping. Tesla regen will reduce friction-brake usage, so manual bed-in is important.
• Verify no ABS, traction control, or brake warning lights on the touchscreen.
• Check for fluid leaks around the caliper banjo fitting and bleeder screw after the test drive.
• After test drive, recheck wheel lug torque.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage. If fluid age is unknown, schedule a flush.

More procedures for this vehicle