Replace the front upper control arm bushing on a 2024 Model X Plaid. On this platform the upper control arm bushings are not sold separately — the complete upper control arm assembly is replaced as a unit. Air suspension and falcon door considerations apply.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front upper control arm assembly (bushing not sold separately on this platform — replace complete arm) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model X front upper control arm assembly
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). This also disables the air suspension compressor.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter the touchscreen Service menu and activate Jack Mode (disables air suspension self-leveling). Confirm vehicle has settled at standard ride height.
7. Ensure falcon doors are fully closed and will not be triggered. If using a two-post lift, verify the lift arms clear the falcon door sweep area.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
9. Raise the vehicle on Tesla-approved jacking pads only — the rocker pinch welds are not structural lift points on Model X; use the designated puck locations.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheel
   With the vehicle safely supported on stands at the manufacturer-specified front lift points, remove the front wheel lug nuts and set the wheel aside. Inspect hub and rotor for any signs of contact damage.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from strut/knuckle (if required for clearance)
   If access to the upper ball joint is restricted, disconnect the upper end of the sway bar link. Hold the ball stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
   ⚠Do not impact-gun the sway bar link nut without holding the shaft — the internal stud will shear or strip.
3. 3

   Support the steering knuckle / lower control arm
   Place a jack under the lower control arm or knuckle to support suspension load. The upper arm carries spring/strut preload through the knuckle; failure to support will cause the knuckle to drop and damage the CV axle, brake hose, and ABS wiring.
   ⚠️Unsupported knuckle drop can rip the brake line and ABS sensor harness, and overextend the CV joint.
4. 4

   Remove upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut
   Cut and discard the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.
5. 5

   Separate upper ball joint from steering knuckle
   Using a proper ball joint separator tool, break the upper ball joint taper free from the knuckle. Do NOT strike the aluminum knuckle directly. Once free, allow the upper arm to swing up and out of the way.
   ⚠Pickle fork use will destroy the ball joint boot. Only use a pickle fork if the entire arm is being replaced (which is the case here, since the bushing is integral to the arm).
6. 6

   Mark and remove upper control arm pivot bolts at the frame/shock tower
   Note the orientation and any alignment cam markings on the inboard pivot hardware. Photograph the position before disturbing. Loosen and remove the inboard mounting bolts/nuts securing the upper arm to the chassis bracket.
   ℹ️If equipped with eccentric alignment cams, marking their position can preserve a usable rough alignment until the car gets to the alignment rack.
7. 7

   Remove the upper control arm assembly
   Withdraw the complete upper control arm from the vehicle. Inspect the chassis bracket bores and threads for damage, corrosion, or ovaling. Inspect the knuckle taper for wear.
8. 8

   Install new upper control arm assembly
   Position the new upper control arm into the chassis bracket. Hand-thread the inboard pivot bolts — do NOT fully torque yet. The bushings must be tightened at ride height to avoid pre-loading.
9. 9

   Reconnect upper ball joint to knuckle
   Insert the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (never back off) only as needed to align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain.
   ⚠️Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — always tighten further. A loose ball joint nut can fail catastrophically.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link (if disconnected)
    Reattach the sway bar link to the strut/knuckle, holding the ball stud shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ground
    Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full vehicle weight is on the wheels — this is required before final torque on the control arm pivot bolts.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque upper control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the suspension at normal ride height (vehicle weight on wheels), torque the upper control arm inboard pivot bolts to specification. This sets the bushing at neutral preload.
    ⚠Skipping the at-ride-height torque step is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on this platform.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    If strut tower hardware was disturbed, torque to spec
    Only if strut tower nuts were loosened during the procedure for clearance, torque them to specification. Otherwise skip.
    Torque spec

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Final-torque all wheel lug nuts to specification using a star pattern with a calibrated torque wrench.
2. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
3. Power on the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level. Confirm both front corners reach equal ride height.
4. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary and listen for clunks, contact, or binding.
5. Verify falcon doors open and close normally — the suspension service should not have affected them, but confirm before releasing the vehicle.

Verification

• Perform a four-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable alignment rack. Camber and caster will have shifted with upper arm replacement; do not skip this step.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps that would indicate loose pivot hardware or an improperly seated ball joint.
• Test drive at highway speed checking for steering pull, wander, or vibration.
• Recheck control arm pivot bolt torque after the first 100–200 miles if you have any doubt about the at-ride-height torque procedure.
• While under the vehicle, this is a logical opportunity to inspect the brake fluid (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and check air suspension components for leaks — both are common Model X service items.

More procedures for this vehicle