Replace the rear control arm bushing on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The X's rear suspension is aluminum-intensive with air suspension; bushings are typically serviced as part of the complete arm assembly when worn, but pressed-in bushings on certain links can be replaced individually with proper tooling.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for Model X rear suspension link being serviced) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear control arm bushing — confirm exact link (upper/lower/toe/camber) before ordering
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut (if the arm being replaced uses one) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts as applicable × 1 — Tesla service-specified single-use fasteners

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk (lift the frunk liner to access). Cover the negative terminal to prevent accidental reconnection.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V, enter the touchscreen Service menu and activate Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling. Confirm the suspension stops adjusting.
7. Confirm Falcon doors are fully closed and will remain closed (12V disconnect helps ensure this).
8. Chock the front wheels. Lift the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified rear lift points only — never under the HV battery pack floor.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side. Note lug nut torque for reinstall.
10. Identify the specific rear control arm being serviced (upper, lower, toe link, or camber link). Confirm the failed bushing location before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear suspension
   With the vehicle on the lift and the wheel removed, place a transmission jack or suspension support under the rear knuckle/hub assembly. Take up the weight slightly so the arm is neutrally loaded — this prevents the knuckle from dropping when the arm is disconnected and protects the air suspension strut and brake/ABS lines from being stretched.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang freely — it can stress the air strut, half-shaft boots, and parking brake harness.
2. 2

   Disconnect the rear sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the bushing being serviced requires it, separate the rear sway bar end link from the control arm. Hold the end link's internal hex with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning. Set hardware aside; inspect the end link for play and replace if worn.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor and parking brake harness routing if needed
   If the harness is clipped to the control arm being removed, release the clips carefully — they are plastic and brittle. Do not pull on the wires. Move the harness aside so it is not stressed during arm removal.
   ⚠Damaged ABS/wheel speed wiring on Model X will trigger Traction/Stability/regen faults and require diagnostic clearing.
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint (if applicable to this arm)
   If the control arm being serviced terminates at a ball joint into the knuckle, remove the cotter pin (discard) and loosen the castle nut. Use a proper ball joint separator — do NOT use a pickle fork on aluminum knuckles as it will damage the boot and the knuckle ear. Separate the joint from the knuckle.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — use a press-style separator, never a hammered fork.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the inboard control arm bolt(s)
   Mark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts with a paint pen before loosening — these set rear alignment and noting the original position helps the alignment tech and provides a baseline. Loosen and remove the inboard bolt(s) securing the control arm to the rear subframe.
   ℹ️Even with marks, a 4-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the control arm from the vehicle
   Carefully maneuver the control arm out of the subframe pocket and away from the knuckle. The arm is aluminum and lighter than steel equivalents but still has weight — support it as it comes free.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the control arm in a press (or use a C-frame bushing tool with the arm supported on a bench). Select cups that bear on the bushing's outer shell, NOT on the aluminum arm itself. Press the old bushing out in a single direction. If the bushing is seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak; do not heat aluminum arms with an open flame as this anneals and weakens the metal.
   ⚠Never apply press force to the aluminum arm body. Only push on the bushing's steel outer sleeve.
   ⚠Do not flame-heat aluminum suspension components — heat damage is not always visible and can cause structural failure.
8. 8

   Inspect the bushing bore
   Inspect the arm's bushing bore for cracks, scoring, or ovaling. Clean the bore with a non-abrasive solvent. If the bore is damaged or out-of-round, replace the entire control arm — do not install a new bushing in a compromised arm.
9. 9

   Press in the new bushing
   Lubricate the bore lightly with the lubricant specified by the bushing manufacturer (typically a silicone-based assembly lube — never petroleum products on rubber). Align the new bushing to its correct clocking orientation (many rear bushings are voided/directional — check for arrows or void markings). Press in evenly until the bushing flange or shoulder is fully seated. Verify it is square in the bore.
   ⚠Incorrect bushing clocking will cause premature failure and ride harshness. Confirm orientation before pressing fully home.
10. 10

    Reinstall the control arm
    Position the arm into the subframe pocket and start the inboard bolt(s) by hand. Reconnect the outboard end (ball joint or knuckle bolt) and start fasteners by hand. If a cam/eccentric bolt was marked, return it to its original position. Snug all fasteners but DO NOT final-torque yet.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut to the Sway Bar Link Nuts spec.
2. If a ball joint was separated, install a NEW cotter pin after torquing the castle nut to the Ball Joint Nut spec. Never reuse a cotter pin and never back off the nut to align the slot — only tighten further.
3. Reattach all ABS/wheel speed sensor clips and harness retainers.
4. Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tires on the ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment rack).
6. With the vehicle's weight on the wheels, FINAL TORQUE the inboard control arm bolt(s) to the Control Arm Bolts spec. This is critical — torquing the bushing pinch bolt at full droop will preload the rubber and destroy the new bushing within months.
7. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts to the Wheel Lug Nuts spec in a star pattern.
8. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk (positive first, then negative) and reinstall the cover.
9. Close the frunk. Insert the key/key card and wake the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.

Verification

• With the vehicle awake and air suspension active, cycle through Low / Standard / High ride heights from the touchscreen and confirm the vehicle levels evenly front-to-rear and side-to-side without faults.
• Check the touchscreen for any active alerts: suspension warnings, ABS, traction control, or stability faults. Clear any transient codes via a 2-minute power-down if needed.
• Perform a road test at low speed first, listening for clunks, groans, or rattles from the rear suspension on bumps and during cornering load transitions.
• Take the vehicle directly to a 4-wheel alignment rack. A rear control arm fastener disturbance ALWAYS requires alignment on Model X — rear toe and camber are adjustable and sensitive.
• After 100–200 miles, re-inspect the bushing area for proper seating, no rubber extrusion, and no fastener movement (paint-mark the bolt heads after final torque to make any rotation visible).
• Note: while the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to verify Tesla's recommended service intervals — brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years (3 years if HEPA-equipped), and rear drive unit gear oil per Tesla's updated 25,000–50,000 mi recommendation. None are required for this job, but the inspection access is already there.

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