Replacement of EV coolant lines on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. This procedure covers accessible low-voltage coolant lines only — any line connected directly to the HV battery pack, drive units, or octovalve/superbottle assembly is out of scope and requires Tesla-certified HV service.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Replacement coolant line(s) — manufacturer-specified for Model X Plaid × 1 — OEM Tesla coolant hose, model/year specific — verify by VIN
• Hose clamps (if reusable type not used) × 4 — OEM-spec spring or worm clamps as originally fitted
• O-rings / seals for quick-disconnect fittings × 1 — OEM coolant fitting seal kit

Fluids

• Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant (G-48) — 10 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk under the forward access panel (similar position to Model S). Follow Tesla's documented frunk-access disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V, so the air suspension does not fight the lift. If 12V is already disconnected, re-power briefly to set Jack Mode, then disconnect.
7. Allow the coolant system to cool fully — minimum 1 hour after any drive — before opening any fitting. Tesla coolant loops can hold residual pressure when warm.
8. Identify the specific coolant line(s) being replaced and confirm they are NOT part of the HV battery loop, octovalve, superbottle, or drive unit cooling circuit. If in doubt, stop.
9. Raise the vehicle on a lift using Tesla-approved lift pad locations only. Falcon door hinges are vulnerable — keep lift arms clear of the rocker rear sections.
10. Remove the relevant underbody aero panel(s) to access the targeted coolant line.

Procedure

1. 1

   Verify coolant line is in-scope
   Trace the coolant line to both endpoints. Confirm both ends terminate at non-HV components (e.g. radiator, expansion reservoir, low-voltage coolant pump, accessible coolant manifold). If either end disappears into the HV battery, octovalve, superbottle, heat pump, or a drive unit casing, abort this procedure.
   ⚠️Battery thermal loop work is HV-adjacent and out of scope for this guide.
2. 2

   Relieve coolant system pressure
   Locate the coolant expansion reservoir. With the system fully cooled, slowly loosen the cap to vent any residual pressure, then re-seat loosely. Do not remove the cap on a warm system.
3. 3

   Position drain pan and drain affected loop
   Place a clean catch pan beneath the lowest point of the targeted coolant loop. Drain only the coolant required to safely service the line — typically isolating the section by clamping flexible hose sections with appropriate hose clamp pliers (never on rigid plastic lines).
   ⚠Tesla coolant (G-48) is glycol-based — collect and dispose of properly. Do not mix with other coolant types.
4. 4

   Photograph routing and clip positions
   Before disconnecting anything, take detailed photos of the line routing, clip positions, and any heat-shield interfaces. Tesla coolant lines often share routing channels with low-voltage harnesses — incorrect re-routing causes chafing failures.
5. 5

   Release coolant line quick-disconnect fittings
   Using the appropriate quick-disconnect release tool, depress the locking collar and separate the fitting. Catch residual coolant in the pan. Inspect the O-ring on the male side — replace if deformed, nicked, or swollen.
   ⚠Do not pry quick-disconnects with metal tools — the plastic collars crack easily and the entire mating component may then need replacement.
   Torque spec

   Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Loosen hose clamps (if applicable)
   For sections retained by hose clamps, slide clamps back along the hose using hose clamp pliers, then work the hose off the barb with a gentle twisting motion. Do not slice the hose off if the mating fitting is plastic — you risk damaging the barb.
   Torque spec

   Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove coolant line retaining brackets
   Remove any bracket bolts and P-clip fasteners securing the coolant line to the chassis or subframe. Note the exact bolt locations and lengths — Tesla mixes bolt lengths in adjacent holes.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove sensor(s) from old line if integrated
   If the coolant line carries an integrated temperature sensor or similar, carefully unclip the connector and remove the sensor for transfer to the new line. Inspect the connector and pigtail for coolant intrusion or corrosion.
   Torque spec

   Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Remove old coolant line
   Withdraw the old line along its original routing path. Cap or plug both ends of any remaining open fittings to prevent debris ingress while the line is out.
10. 10

    Install new coolant line
    Route the new line exactly as the original — same heat-shield clearances, same harness separation, same clip orientations. Pre-lubricate quick-disconnect O-rings with fresh G-48 coolant before mating. Seat each fitting until the locking collar audibly clicks, then tug-test to confirm engagement.
    ⚠A quick-disconnect that is not fully clicked will hold pressure cold and leak when warm — always tug-test.
    Torque spec

    Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall brackets, clamps, and sensors
    Reinstall P-clips and bracket fasteners. Reinstall hose clamps and any sensor transferred from the old line. Verify the new line is not contacting any harness or heat source.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)

    Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)

    Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall covers and underbody panels
    Reinstall any inner covers, splash shields, and underbody aero panels. Verify all mounting tabs are seated before torquing fasteners — these panels affect aerodynamic efficiency and range.
    Torque spec

    Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk; reinstall the frunk access panel.
2. Refill the coolant system with Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant (G-48). Use a vacuum-fill tool — gravity filling will trap air in this system and cause pump cavitation or thermal faults.
3. Pull a vacuum on the system to manufacturer-specified level, hold to verify no leaks, then draw in fresh coolant.
4. Top off the expansion reservoir to the cold-fill mark.
5. Lower vehicle from lift; exit Jack Mode.
6. Power the vehicle back on and allow the thermal management system to run a self-check. Monitor for any coolant-related alerts on the touchscreen.
7. Bring the system to operating temperature, then re-check the reservoir level cold the following day and top off if needed.

Verification

• No coolant-related alerts or service messages on the touchscreen after a full power cycle and a short test drive.
• Visually inspect every disturbed fitting and clamp for weeping after the vehicle has reached operating temperature and cooled again — coolant leaks frequently only show after one heat cycle.
• Verify coolant level remains at the cold-fill mark 24 hours after service — a drop indicates trapped air still purging or a slow leak.
• Confirm thermal management behavior is normal: cabin HVAC, battery preconditioning (if used), and Supercharger preconditioning should all operate without faults.
• Document service date and mileage. Tesla's current guidance is battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 miles — note this in the owner's records.
• For un-listed fasteners encountered during this job: Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.

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