Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. The Model X uses a multi-link aluminum front suspension with standard air suspension; ride height calibration may be needed after reassembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (LH or RH as required) × 1 — Model X Plaid front LCA — manufacturer-specified part
• Control arm pivot bolts (replace if single-use per OEM) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified — verify reuse policy
• Ball joint nut (replace if prevailing-torque/single-use) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (frunk-mounted, similar position to Model S). Insulate the negative terminal.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter Service Mode and activate Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling. Confirm the vehicle will not attempt to re-level.
7. Chock the rear wheels. Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle on Tesla-approved lift points only and support securely. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Inspect the area for any orange HV cabling routed near the work zone — if present, STOP.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheel and inspect
   With the vehicle safely supported, remove the front wheel on the affected side. Visually inspect the lower control arm, ball joint boot, bushings, and surrounding suspension components for additional damage. Photograph routing of any wiring or brake hose retainers near the control arm.
2. 2

   Detach brake hose / ABS sensor wiring as needed
   If the brake flex line bracket or ABS wheel speed sensor harness is retained to the control arm or knuckle in a way that obstructs removal, release only the clips/brackets — do NOT open the hydraulic brake line. Support the caliper with a hook or strap if it must be moved; never let it hang by the hose.
   ⚠Do not disconnect hydraulic brake lines for this job. Brake fluid is also on a 2-year service interval — note this for future maintenance.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link routing prevents control arm clearance, hold the end link shaft with an Allen key and remove the nut at the lower mount. Swing the link clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter/retainer (if equipped) and back off the ball joint nut. Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle using a proper ball joint separator. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle or control arm with a steel hammer. Once separated, support the knuckle so it does not hang on the outer CV joint or upper control arm.
   ⚠Allowing the knuckle to swing freely can damage the outer CV joint, brake hose, or ABS sensor harness.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove control arm pivot bolts
   Support the control arm with a transmission jack or stand. Remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) securing the control arm to the front subframe. Note bolt orientation, washer stack, and any alignment cams for reinstallation. Lower and remove the control arm from the vehicle.
   ℹ️If alignment cams are present, mark their position before removal — final alignment is still required, but this preserves a reasonable starting point.
6. 6

   Compare old and new control arm
   Verify the replacement control arm matches the original in length, ball joint orientation, bushing type, and any sensor/bracket provisions. Transfer over any clips or brackets that did not come with the new arm.
7. 7

   Install new control arm to subframe
   Position the new control arm into the subframe mount. Install the pivot bolt(s) hand-tight only — DO NOT final-torque yet. The bushings must be loaded at ride height to avoid premature failure.
   ⚠Final-torquing the inboard bolts now will preload the bushings in the wrong position and cause premature bushing failure.
8. 8

   Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
   Lift the control arm into position and seat the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin/retainer if the design requires one.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect sway bar end link
   If disconnected, reattach the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach brake hose / ABS harness clips
    Reinstall any brake hose brackets or ABS sensor harness retainers that were released. Verify the harness is not pinched, twisted, or contacting moving suspension components throughout full travel.
    Torque spec

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight is on the wheels (or use a suitable suspension-loading procedure on the lift).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the control arm inboard pivot bolt(s) to specification. This is critical for bushing longevity.
    ⚠Skipping the at-ride-height torque step is the #1 cause of premature control arm bushing failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final-torque lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm all fasteners are torqued and any clips/brackets are seated.
2. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk and close the frunk.
3. Exit Jack Mode / Service Mode and allow the air suspension to re-pressurize and self-level. Watch for any leaning, hissing, or fault messages.
4. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary and listen for any contact or binding.
5. Test-drive at low speed first, listening for clunks or pulling. Then verify normal handling at road speed.

Verification

• Perform a 4-wheel alignment — mandatory after any front suspension component replacement on Model X.
• Run a ride-height calibration via Service Mode if the air suspension was disturbed or shows uneven height.
• Confirm no suspension, ABS, or stability-control faults are present on the touchscreen after a short drive.
• Re-inspect the ball joint nut and control arm pivot bolts after the first 100–200 miles for any movement or witness-mark shift.
• While under the vehicle, note other Tesla service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2–3 years (HEPA), and battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi. Tire rotation every ~6,250 mi is also recommended given Model X Plaid weight and torque.

More procedures for this vehicle