Replacement of a rear lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. This vehicle uses a multi-link rear suspension with air springs; final torque on suspension fasteners must be done at ride height with the vehicle weight loaded.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear lower control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified for Model X Plaid) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear LCA — confirm by VIN
• Control arm pivot bolts (single-use if specified by Tesla) × 2 — Replace if manufacturer specifies single-use
• Ball joint nut (if not reusable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified self-locking nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (similar location to Model S). Follow the labeled disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter the touchscreen Service menu and place the air suspension in Jack Mode (or equivalent transport/service mode) to disable auto-leveling.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Identify the manufacturer-specified rear lift points (NOT the battery pack). Use Tesla-approved pucks/adapters.
9. Lift the rear of the vehicle and support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight. Chock the front wheels.
10. Be aware of falcon door clearance overhead — although not directly involved, do not allow the doors to be opened/closed while the vehicle is on stands, as the chassis flex behavior is altered.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear wheel
   Fully remove the lug nuts and pull the rear wheel. Set aside on a soft surface to protect the finish.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/hub
   Place a floor jack with a wood block under the rear hub/knuckle assembly to support it once the control arm is detached. Apply just enough pressure to take up slack — do not lift the vehicle off the stands.
   ⚠An unsupported rear knuckle can hang on the half-shaft, brake hose, ABS harness, or air suspension lines and damage them.
3. 3

   Disconnect the rear sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the rear sway bar end link attaches to the lower control arm or restricts removal, hold the link's shaft with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Identify the correct rear lower control arm
   The Model X rear suspension is a multi-link with several lateral arms. Confirm visually that you are working on the lower control arm (the arm that supports vertical load and connects the lower portion of the knuckle to the subframe). Do not loosen the toe link, camber link, or trailing arm bolts unless explicitly required.
   ⚠Disturbing other links will require additional alignment angles to be reset.
5. 5

   Mark alignment cam positions (if equipped)
   If the inboard control arm bolt uses an eccentric/cam adjuster for alignment, scribe a reference mark across the cam, washer, and subframe before loosening. This gives a starting alignment point for re-installation.
6. 6

   Release the outboard end (ball joint or through-bolt)
   Depending on the arm variant, the outboard end is either a ball joint into the knuckle or a through-bolt. Remove the retaining nut or bolt. If a ball joint, separate it from the knuckle using an appropriate separator tool — do not strike the aluminum knuckle.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — never hammer directly. Use a separator tool.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the inboard pivot bolt
   Support the arm by hand. Remove the inboard pivot bolt at the subframe. Note bolt orientation and any washers/cams for reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove the control arm
   Maneuver the lower control arm out of the subframe and knuckle. Compare the new arm to the old one side-by-side to confirm correct part, bushing orientation, and any L/R designation.
9. 9

   Install the new control arm — finger tight only
   Position the new arm. Install the inboard pivot bolt (aligning the cam marks if applicable) and the outboard ball joint or through-bolt. Tighten only enough to hold position. Do NOT final-torque yet — the bushings must be torqued at ride height.
   ⚠Torquing rubber/hydraulic bushings while drooping will permanently preload them and cause premature failure or alignment drift.
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar link
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, holding the stud with an Allen key to prevent rotation.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Torque the outboard ball joint
    Torque the ball joint nut to specification. If the nut is castellated and requires a cotter pin or if it is a self-locking design, follow OEM guidance — do not back off to align; tighten further if needed.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to load suspension
    Mount the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight rests on the wheels. Bounce the suspension to settle bushings.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final-torque the inboard pivot bolt at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on its wheels (ride height established), final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt. This may require accessing the bolt through the wheel well or from underneath using ramps rather than stands.
    ⚠If you must work under the vehicle while loaded, use rated drive-on ramps — never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final-torque lug nuts in star pattern
    Torque lug nuts in a cross/star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
2. Power on the vehicle. The instrument cluster may display suspension or stability warnings until the system recalibrates.
3. Exit Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to return to normal ride height. Cycle through ride height settings (Low/Standard/High) to verify all corners respond.
4. Confirm no fault messages remain. If 'Vehicle May Not Restart' or suspension faults persist, address before driving.

Verification

• Visually inspect the new control arm — bolts seated, no fouling against brake lines, ABS harness, half-shaft, or air suspension air line.
• Confirm rear ride height matches the opposite side within Tesla's tolerance after the air system equalizes.
• Test drive at low speed first: listen for clunks over bumps, pull under braking, or steering wander.
• MANDATORY: take the vehicle for a four-wheel alignment. Rear toe and camber will have shifted. Tesla requires alignment after any rear suspension component replacement.
• Recheck inboard pivot bolt torque after the first 100-200 miles if the bushing is rubber.
• While the vehicle is up, this is also a good opportunity to check the cabin air filter (Tesla service interval: every 2 years, or 3 years if HEPA/Bioweapon Defense Mode equipped) and brake fluid (every 2 years regardless of mileage).

More procedures for this vehicle