Replacement of the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. The bushings are retained by two brackets bolted to the rear subframe; the job is straightforward but requires lifting an air-suspension vehicle correctly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar bushing (manufacturer-specified, sized to OEM bar diameter) × 2 — Tesla Model X (2021+ refresh) rear sway bar bushing — OEM spec

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (lift frunk carpet/cover, disconnect negative terminal, isolate it from the post).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen so the air suspension does not fight the lift. (Jack Mode must be set BEFORE killing 12V power.)
7. Loosen rear lug nuts slightly while wheels are on the ground if you intend to remove the rear wheels for clearance.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points and support it on jack stands. Confirm stability before going under.

Procedure

1. 1

   Gain access to the rear sway bar
   Remove the rear wheels if needed for access. Remove any rear underbody aero/diffuser panel fasteners required to expose the rear subframe area where the sway bar passes through its mounting brackets. Set fasteners aside in order — Tesla underbody panels use a mix of plastic clips and bolts.
2. 2

   Inspect and photograph the assembly
   Photograph the sway bar, end links, and bracket orientation before disassembly. Note bushing orientation (split direction) and any alignment marks on the bar. The rear sway bar is mounted to the subframe via two brackets, with end links connecting each end of the bar to the rear suspension.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end links (if required for bushing clearance)
   If the sway bar cannot drop far enough to clear the bushings while the end links remain attached, remove the sway bar link nut at the bar side. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Support the bar so it does not fall.
   ⚠Do not let the sway bar swing free — it is heavy enough to damage adjacent components or pinch fingers.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the sway bar bracket bolts
   Support the sway bar with a transmission jack or a helper. Remove the bolts securing each of the two sway bar brackets to the subframe. Lower the bar just enough to expose the bushings — you typically do not need to fully remove the bar from the vehicle.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the old bushings
   Slide each bracket off the bar, then peel the split bushing off the bar. Inspect the bar's bushing contact surface for corrosion, scoring, or coating damage. Clean the surface with a non-abrasive method — do not sand or score the bar.
6. 6

   Install the new bushings
   Apply a thin film of silicone-safe rubber lubricant (or the bushing manufacturer's specified lube) to the inner surface of the new bushings. Do NOT use petroleum-based grease — it will degrade the rubber. Install each bushing onto the bar with the split oriented per the original (typically facing forward/up, matching what you photographed). Slide the brackets over the bushings.
   ℹ️Bushing split orientation matters for noise and longevity — match factory orientation.
7. 7

   Reinstall the sway bar brackets
   Lift the sway bar back into position. Start all bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum subframe. Snug them progressively, alternating side-to-side, then torque to spec.
   ⚠Threads go into aluminum — do not power-tool the bolts home. Hand-start every fastener.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect end links
   If end links were disconnected, reattach them. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut to spec.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall underbody panels and wheels
   Reinstall the rear underbody/diffuser panel and any clips removed for access. Reinstall the rear wheels and snug lug nuts. Final lug nut torque is to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual — and should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Reassembly

1. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
2. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
3. Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal in the frunk.
4. Close the frunk.
5. Power on the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen and confirm the air suspension returns to normal ride height on all four corners.
6. Allow the suspension to fully self-level before driving.

Verification

• With the vehicle at normal ride height, confirm both rear sway bar brackets are flush against the subframe with no visible gap.
• Confirm no rubber bulging or pinching at the bushing splits.
• Test drive: take the vehicle over a series of small bumps and through a moderate-speed corner. Listen for clunking or squeaking from the rear — a properly installed bushing should be silent.
• On the touchscreen, confirm no new suspension or chassis alerts are present and that the air suspension is leveling normally at all four corners.
• Recheck bracket bolt torque after the first 100 miles — these thread into aluminum and benefit from a re-verification.
• Service interval reminder: while the vehicle is up, this is a good time to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years) and verify tire rotation status (Tesla recommends every ~6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle