Replacement of the front sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2024 Model X Plaid. Air suspension and falcon doors are not directly involved, but air suspension service mode must be enabled to safely lift the vehicle.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar (anti-roll bar), Model X Plaid spec × 1 — Tesla OEM front sway bar — match to VIN at parts catalog
• Sway bar bushings (bracket-side) × 2 — OEM bushings sized to new bar diameter
• Sway bar end links (recommended replacement) × 2 — OEM front end links

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (similar position to Model S — remove frunk liner/access panel, then disconnect negative terminal first).
4. Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen so the air suspension will not try to self-level. Once Jack Mode is set, then disconnect 12V.
7. Raise the vehicle on a lift or jack stands using only Tesla-designated jacking pads. Both front wheels must be off the ground and the front suspension fully unloaded.
8. Remove the front wheels (21mm lug nuts on Model X) to gain access to the sway bar end links.
9. Remove the front aero belly pan / underbody shielding to expose the sway bar, brackets, and end links. Keep all fasteners organized — Tesla uses several different lengths in the same panel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and photograph the sway bar assembly
   Before disassembly, photograph the routing of the sway bar, end link orientation (driver vs passenger side), and bracket/bushing orientation. The Model X front sway bar is asymmetric and must be reinstalled with the same orientation. Note any damaged bushings, torn end link boots, or contact wear marks.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end links from the sway bar
   At each end of the sway bar, locate the end link upper nut. Insert a hex key into the end of the link's stud to counter-hold the shaft, then loosen and remove the nut with a wrench. Separate the link eyelet from the sway bar. If the link is being replaced, also disconnect its lower end from the strut/control arm using the same counter-hold technique.
   ⚠Never use an impact gun on the end link nut without counter-holding — the internal shaft will spin and shred the boot, or the stud will twist off.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the sway bar
   Place a transmission jack or a helper under the sway bar to support its weight before removing the bracket bolts. The bar is heavy enough to fall awkwardly and damage surrounding components if dropped.
4. 4

   Remove the sway bar bracket bolts
   Locate the two sway bar brackets (one per side) that clamp the bar to the front subframe via rubber bushings. Remove the bracket bolts. Inspect the bolts for thread damage or stretch; replace if questionable. Lower the brackets and bushings clear of the bar.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Maneuver the sway bar out of the vehicle
   Carefully rotate and slide the sway bar out from between the subframe and surrounding components. On Model X, clearance around the front motor and steering rack is tight — do NOT pry against any orange HV harness, the steering rack boots, or any aluminum cast structure. If the bar will not clear, re-check that both end links are fully disconnected and brackets are fully released.
   ⚠️If you encounter an orange cable obstructing removal, STOP. Do not pry, pull, or reroute HV cabling.
   ⚠Aluminum subframe and body — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only if persuasion is needed.
6. 6

   Transfer or replace bushings
   Slide the old bushings off the bar. Inspect for cracking, oil contamination, or set/squashing. Always install new bushings when replacing the bar (bushings are sized to bar diameter and locating ridges). Apply only the bushing lubricant supplied with the bushings — do not use petroleum grease, which destroys rubber.
7. 7

   Install the new front sway bar
   Position the new bushings on the bar at the locating ridges (orientation marks should face forward or per the manufacturer's mark). Maneuver the bar into position, matching the orientation noted in Step 1. Loosely fit both brackets over the bushings and start all bracket bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading into the aluminum subframe.
   ⚠Threads into aluminum subframe — start every bolt by hand and never with an impact.
8. 8

   Torque the sway bar bracket bolts
   With both brackets loosely engaged and the bar centered, snug each bracket bolt evenly, then final torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the end links
   Attach each end link to the sway bar. Install the nut and counter-hold the link's internal shaft with a hex key while torquing to specification. If new links were installed, also torque their lower mounting nuts per OEM specification (refer to Tesla Service Manual if not in the verified list).
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final inspection underneath
    Verify both bracket bolts are torqued, both end link nuts are torqued, no tools or rags are left on the subframe, and that nothing contacts the steering rack, axle boots, or HV harnesses through full bar travel (manually flex the bar slightly if accessible).

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front aero belly pan / underbody shielding using the original fasteners in their original locations.
2. Reinstall the front wheels. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern, then torque to OEM specification (refer to Tesla Service Manual).
3. Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the wheels.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative) and reinstall the frunk access panel/liner.
5. Close the frunk and all doors. Falcon doors and frunk should self-calibrate; if either behaves abnormally on first cycle, allow it to complete a full open/close cycle without obstruction.
6. Power on the vehicle and exit Jack Mode (the system will exit automatically once it detects normal driving conditions, or manually disable via Service menu).

Verification

• On the touchscreen, confirm no new chassis, suspension, or stability control alerts are displayed.
• With the vehicle on level ground, confirm the air suspension levels normally to Standard ride height — uneven settling can indicate a misrouted or pinched component.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area: perform gentle left-right transitions to confirm the sway bar engages without clunking. A persistent clunk over bumps usually indicates an under-torqued end link nut or a bushing not seated in its bracket.
• After the test drive, re-inspect the bracket bolts and end link nuts for any sign of movement (witness marks).
• Note: this job is not part of any Tesla scheduled maintenance interval, but while the vehicle is on the lift it is a good opportunity to inspect the cabin air filter (2-year interval) and brake fluid condition (Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage).

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