steering
Tie Rod Assembly
for 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
11
Replacement of a front tie rod assembly on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The Model X uses electric power steering (no hydraulic fluid) and an aluminum-intensive front suspension; alignment is mandatory after this job.
Warnings
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The HV pack is floor-mounted on Model X — keep jack and stand placement on factory lift points only.
⚠Model X uses extensive aluminum suspension and subframe components. Do not strike aluminum parts with a steel hammer; use a separator tool to release the tie rod taper.
⚠Falcon doors: keep upper doors closed during this job and keep the key fob well away from the vehicle so the doors do not auto-open while you are under it.
⚠Air suspension is standard. Before lifting, place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen to prevent the system from trying to self-level while on stands.
ℹ️Electric Power Steering — no power steering fluid. Ignore any guides referencing hydraulic lines for this vehicle.
ℹ️A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after tie rod replacement. Do not return the vehicle to service without it.
Tools required
Floor jack rated for EV curb weight (Model X is ~5,400 lb)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (to protect battery case)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end / ball joint separator (pickle fork or press-style separator)Essential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Hex/Torx bit setEssential
Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pin)Essential
Paint pen or marker (to mark inner tie rod position for rough alignment)
Wire brush and penetrating oil
Insulated gloves (precaution near 12V harness)
Parts
- Tie rod assembly (inner + outer, or outer only as required) — manufacturer-specified for Model X Plaid × 1 — Refer to Tesla EPC for 2024 Model X Plaid front tie rod
- New castle/cotter pin for tie rod end nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
- Wheel alignment service (post-repair) × 1 — Required after any tie rod work
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Follow Tesla's documented 12V disconnect sequence.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before lifting: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Service menu) to disable the air suspension self-leveling.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle only at Tesla-designated lift points using approved pucks — never on the battery case, control arms, or aluminum subframe rails.
- Support securely on jack stands at factory points before going underneath.
Procedure
- 1Remove front wheelRemove the front wheel on the side being serviced. Set the wheel aside on its face to protect the finish.
- 2Inspect and clean tie rod areaWire-brush the outer tie rod end stud, castle nut, cotter pin, and the inner tie rod jam/lock nut. Apply penetrating oil if corroded. Inspect the boot, ball joint, and steering rack boot for damage that may justify additional service.
- 3Mark inner tie rod positionUsing a paint pen, mark the threads where the outer tie rod meets the inner tie rod, and count exposed threads. This provides a rough toe setting for driving to the alignment rack — it is NOT a substitute for alignment.ℹ️Marking does not eliminate the need for a four-wheel alignment afterward.
- 4Remove cotter pin and loosen castle nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end. Loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut — leave it threaded flush with the stud end to protect the threads when separating the taper.
- 5Separate outer tie rod from steering knuckleUse a proper tie rod end separator or press-style puller to break the tapered stud free from the steering knuckle. Do not hammer the aluminum knuckle. Once free, remove the castle nut completely and lift the stud out of the knuckle.⚠Aluminum knuckle — striking it directly can crack the casting. Use a separator tool only.
- 6Loosen the inner jam/lock nutHold the inner tie rod with a wrench and loosen the lock nut against the outer tie rod. If replacing only the outer, leave the inner undisturbed beyond loosening the lock nut.
- 7Remove the tie rod assemblyUnthread the outer tie rod from the inner, counting the number of full turns required to remove it. If full assembly replacement is required (inner + outer), pull back the steering rack boot clamp and unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack using the manufacturer-specified inner tie rod tool.⚠Do not rotate the steering rack input or allow the rack shaft to extend uncontrolled while the inner is removed.
- 8Install new tie rodIf the inner was replaced, thread it into the rack and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Reinstall the rack boot and clamp. Thread the new outer tie rod onto the inner the same number of turns counted during removal, aligning to your paint mark for a starting toe.
- 9Install outer tie rod stud into knuckleInsert the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to spec, then continue tightening (never loosen) only as needed to align the slot with the stud's cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.⚠Always use a NEW cotter pin. Never back the castle nut off to align the slot — only tighten further.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 10Snug the inner lock nut (final torque after alignment)Snug the inner-to-outer lock nut for the drive to the alignment rack. Final torque on the lock nut must be applied AFTER alignment so toe can be set. Note this in your handoff notes.ℹ️Final torque on the lock nut is applied after alignment — see reassembly step.
- 11Reinstall wheelMount the wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to spec. Re-torque after the vehicle is back on the ground.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Lower the vehicle to the ground and re-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.
- Drive carefully and at low speed directly to a four-wheel alignment.
- After alignment, while holding the inner tie rod from rotating, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).
- Verify the steering rack boot is properly seated and clamped on both ends.
Verification
- Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if not, return for alignment correction — do not adjust by removing and re-clocking the steering wheel on a Tesla, as this affects the steering angle sensor.
- Check for any steering-related alerts on the touchscreen (EPS faults, lane-keep/Autopilot calibration warnings). A test drive may be required for the Autopilot cameras to re-validate.
- With wheels straight, visually confirm equal thread engagement on both sides at the inner-to-outer joint.
- Inspect the new cotter pin is properly bent and fully seated.
- Confirm no play at the tie rod end by rocking the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock — there should be zero free play.
- Recheck wheel lug torque after approximately 80 km (50 mi) of driving.
- Note: Tesla brake fluid service is due every 2 years regardless of mileage — if alignment shop notes contamination or it is otherwise due, schedule that service separately.