steering
Tie Rod End - Inner
for 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
10
Steps
10
Replace the inner tie rod end on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack and requires removal of the outer tie rod first; a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair.
Warnings
⚠️Air suspension can self-level unexpectedly. Enable Jack Mode via touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) before lifting. Failure to do so can cause the vehicle to fall off stands.
⚠️The HV battery pack is floor-mounted on Model X. Use only Tesla-approved jack pucks at the designated lift points. Lifting on the battery case can pierce HV cells — fire/electrocution risk.
⚠Falcon doors: keep them closed during this repair. Opening them while the vehicle is on stands at altered ride height can damage hinge calibration and trigger sensor faults.
⚠Aluminum suspension/subframe components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a brass drift or dead-blow only.
⚠An alignment is REQUIRED after inner tie rod replacement. Do not return the vehicle to service without it — toe will be off and tires will wear within hundreds of miles.
ℹ️Model X uses electric power steering — no hydraulic lines at the rack. If you find what appears to be a power steering line, STOP; you may be looking at the wrong component or an orange HV cable.
Tools required
Inner tie rod removal tool (crow's foot or dedicated inner tie rod socket)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle fork or ball joint separatorEssential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weight (Model X curb weight ~5,400 lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (to protect battery pack)Essential
Vehicle lift mode access (touchscreen) to disable air suspension self-levelingEssential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Line wrench / open-end wrench set (metric)Essential
Pry bar
Digital calipers or thread-count method (to preserve toe setting for limp-home alignment)
Parts
- Inner tie rod assembly (left or right specific) × 1 — OEM Model X 2024 inner tie rod — verify side
- Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
- Steering rack boot clamps (if damaged on removal) × 2 — OEM-spec crimp or worm-drive clamp
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Open frunk via touchscreen before disconnecting.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before disconnecting 12V: enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen to disable air suspension auto-leveling (Controls > Service > Jack Mode).
- Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points using approved pucks. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Mark the position of the outer tie rod on its threads (paint pen or thread count) so initial toe can be approximated for the drive to the alignment shop.
Procedure
- 1Separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckleRemove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut and discard. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on flush with the stud to protect the threads. Use a tie rod separator or pickle fork to break the taper free from the steering knuckle. Remove the nut and lift the outer tie rod stud out of the knuckle.⚠If using a pickle fork, the outer tie rod boot will likely be destroyed — plan to replace the outer end if you intend to reuse it.
- 2Remove the outer tie rod from the innerLoosen the tie rod lock nut (jam nut) where the outer threads onto the inner. Count the exact number of turns as you unthread the outer tie rod from the inner — this preserves an approximate toe setting for limp-home driving. Remove the outer tie rod and lock nut.
- 3Release the steering rack bootLoosen and slide back the outer clamp on the steering rack boot. Inspect the boot for tears; replace if compromised. Slide the boot inboard along the rack to fully expose the inner tie rod housing where it threads into the rack.
- 4Verify rack is centered and prevent rotationCenter the steering rack (steering wheel straight, equal travel each direction). With the steering column locked or the wheel held, the rack shaft must not rotate while loosening the inner tie rod, otherwise internal damage to the rack can occur.
- 5Remove the inner tie rod from the rackUsing an inner tie rod removal tool sized to the inner tie rod housing, unthread the inner tie rod counter-clockwise from the rack shaft. Hold the rack shaft with a backup wrench on the flats (if provided) to prevent rack rotation. Remove the inner tie rod assembly.
- 6Inspect the rack and surrounding componentsInspect the rack shaft threads for damage, the rack boot for tears, and the bellows clamps. Inspect the outer tie rod for play or torn boot — if it has any wear, replace it now since labor is already invested. Wipe the threads clean.
- 7Install the new inner tie rodApply thread locker only if specified by the new part's instructions (many inner tie rods come pre-applied). Thread the new inner tie rod onto the rack shaft by hand to verify clean engagement, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Some inner tie rods require staking after torque; follow the new part's instructions exactly.
- 8Reposition the rack bootSlide the steering rack boot back into position, ensuring it is seated in its grooves at both the rack housing and the inner tie rod. Install new clamps if the originals were damaged. Verify the boot is not twisted — a twisted boot will tear within a few thousand miles of steering cycles.
- 9Reinstall the outer tie rodThread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod on by the same number of turns counted during removal. This sets a rough toe for the drive to the alignment rack — it is NOT a final alignment.
- 10Reconnect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckleInsert the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Align the slot to the cotter pin hole by tightening (never loosening) and install a NEW cotter pin. Bend the legs to retain.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread lug nuts to avoid cross-threading on the aluminum hub face.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
- Close frunk and exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen (vehicle will return to normal ride height).
- Cycle the steering lock-to-lock several times slowly with the vehicle running but stationary, watching for binding, clunks, or boot distortion.
Verification
- Drive the vehicle directly to an alignment rack — do not return to customer until aligned. Inner tie rod replacement always requires a four-wheel alignment.
- After alignment, torque the tie rod lock nut to specification (this is done at the alignment rack after toe is set).
- On the alignment rack, verify toe is within Tesla spec for Model X Plaid and that left/right toe is symmetric (steering wheel centered).
- Test drive: confirm steering wheel is centered, no pull, no clunks over bumps, and no warning messages on the instrument cluster (a steering angle sensor relearn may be needed via a brief lock-to-lock cycle, or via Tesla service tooling if a fault persists).
- Inspect the rack boot one more time after the test drive to confirm it has not twisted under steering load.
- Note: while suspension is apart, this is a good time to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years) and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi).